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Christian pilgrims celebrate Good Friday in Jerusalem

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  • Christian pilgrims celebrate Good Friday in Jerusalem

    Haaretz
    Sun., April 11, 2004 Nisan 20, 5764 Israel Time: 01:45 (GMT+3)

    Christian pilgrims celebrate Good Friday in Jerusalem

    By Amiram Barkat

    A roar of joy burst from the throats of some 11,000 Christians crowding the
    Church of the Holy Sepulcher on Friday afternoon, as out of the darkness the
    light of two candles suddenly flickered. They were held by the Greek
    Orthodox patriarch and the Armenian bishop.

    This was the culmination of the Good Friday procession, in which pilgrims
    from every strain of Christianity crowded the streets of Jerusalem's Old
    City, retracing Jesus' path to crucifixion.

    Groups from Russia, Poland, Greece, the Philippines and Ethiopia followed
    the stations of the cross along the cobblestoned Via Dolorosa, or Way of
    Sorrows, the route Christ took from his trial to his burial, according to
    tradition.

    Faith has it that the fire erupting once a year from the sepulcher lights
    the candles. But this year another mystery was added. Was it the Greek
    patriarch who brought the fire, as the Greeks said, or did the Armenian
    bishop accompany him, as the Armenians assert.

    The fire-lighting ceremony has been held annually for more than 1,000 years.
    For the Orthodox, Armenians, Copts and Assyrians, the ceremony symbolizes
    the beginning of Christ's resurrection. Only a representative of the Greek
    Orthodox community and a representative of the Armenian community are
    allowed into the holy chapel at the sepulcher's entrance. A few minutes
    later they appear at the windows with candles in their hand. Within seconds
    the fire lights thousands of candles held by worshipers in the church.

    For the past two years, the Greek Orthodox and Armenian leaders have been
    fighting about the access right to the source of fire. This year they asked
    the Israeli government to settle the issue. But both previous and present
    interior ministers kept putting off their decision.

    This year, the Jerusalem police told both sides the ceremony would be held
    in the same format as last year. "We told them we would not allow any
    riots," police spokesman Shmuel Ben-Ruby said. "If they don't reach an
    agreement, there will be no ceremony, or only a very small one."

    Finally, the Greek Orthodox Patriarch Irineos entered the sepulcher, with
    Armenian Bishop Vicken close on his heels. An armed police force kept watch
    inside the church to prevent disturbances.

    Outside the church, local shopkeepers - some of whom were selling bootlegged
    DVDs of Mel Gibson's "The Passion of the Christ" - and police said this
    year's Good Friday turnout was larger than any since the outbreak of the
    intifada in September 2000.

    Worshipers sang and carried icons, candles, flowers and crosses as they
    walked along the alleys to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

    One group of about a dozen people, each wearing a crown of thorns, carried a
    large cross. Another group reenacted the Passion with actors playing the
    parts of Jesus, Roman soldiers and the disciples.

    The procession often ground to a halt as the throng tried to turn sharp
    corners or pass through narrow passages. Some pilgrims tearfully kissed the
    pillars of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher as they waited to get in. Once
    inside, many wiped prayer cloths across the Stone of Unction, where Christ
    was anointed for burial.
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