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  • Isolated: A visit to a forgotten village

    ArmeniaNow.com
    23 April 2004
    Isolated: A visit to a forgotten village



    By Vahan Ishkhanyan ArmeniaNow reporter

    When the snow melts, the village of Geghakar restores its connection with
    the world.
    Geghakar comes out when the snow goes away.

    A nearly impassable road is the only link with the outside, and when nature
    closes it, Geghakar about 75 miles northeast of Yerevan hibernates until
    spring.

    Until 1989, the village - formerly called Yenikend - was one of the richest
    cattle breeding areas of the Gegharkunik region. It was an Azeri settlement
    until then. But its population and its livestock industry and a lot of other
    things changed when Azeris were no longer welcomed across the nearby border,
    and vice versa.

    Today Geghakar, like many villages around this part of Lake Sevan, is
    populated by refugees from Azerbaijan.

    Ruben Karapetyan is 25. In 1990, when he was 11, his family escaped from the
    big-city (but dangerous for Armenians) life in Baku, and became villagers.
    Other refugees came for Kirovabad, and the former Azeri village became home
    to families like Ruben's.

    "It's very strange how this village was put on a map," Ruben says.

    Ten years ago there was a telephone line connecting Geghakar. But residents
    of the village remember that one day someone came to the village from
    Vardenis and cut all telephone lines taking them away saying that nobody can
    lay a complaint against him. Refugees, who had no support, couldn't save
    their telephone lines.

    "Those days they lied to us," says refugee from Kirovabad Roman Karapetyan.
    "They said they would develop the village, install a gas line . . . And then
    they put us into an Ikarus (model of bus) and brought us here."

    It is a far measure from life as it was known in Kirovabad or Baku.

    Villagers mainly live by growing potatoes and wheat, a task made more
    difficult because the village has no irrigation system. They say they cannot
    work their croplands because they have no machinery. And even if there were
    machinery, they couldn't afford to buy fuel.

    Thirteen families live in Geghakar, about 50 residents. Three times that
    many are registered here. Two-thirds of the official population actually
    live seven kilometers away in Lusakunk. They come to the village to graze
    cattle and to vote. The head of the village also lives in Lusakunk, and
    rarely visits his "constituency". (In general, almost all refugee villages
    in the region have heads who are non-refugees.)

    The poorest villagers are refugees from Baku, Boris and Irina Kulikyan, who
    have seven children.

    "We had been living in the city for 35 years. What can we do now? This is
    our reality. We have no place to go," says Boris, who is seriously ill and
    cannot do physical work anymore. Their eldest son, who is the main
    breadwinner in their family, was called up for military service.

    "In summer we can do something, but in winter it is very hard. We can hardly
    sell 500-600 kilograms of potatoes and buy firewood. However, I cannot work
    the land anymore. In addition, there was terrible heavy rain, which killed
    all potatoes." (In early March a storm and flood caused severe damage to the
    region. Many roofs in Geghakar were damaged).

    In general, Geghakar has rich resources including wide meadows, croplands
    and a quarry. However, villagers insist they don't make use of them as
    quarries belong to a businessman from Vardenis, where only residents from
    Vardenis work. And majority of croplands is granted on lease.

    "All hayfields belong to head of the village. He thinks only about his
    pocket," says one of the villagers. (ArmeniaNow tried to reach the village
    head, but he was not in Geghakar nor in his permanent residence in
    Lusakunk.)

    There is a medical station in the village, but it is always closed. A nurse
    from Lusakunk visits every two months, according to villagers.

    Emma Tsaturyan, 62, a refugee from Baku, is the villagers' means of health
    care. Emma gives injections, and, since 1992, has delivered 11 babies. She
    is not paid. Neither by the government, nor by the villagers, from whom she
    will not even allow a small gift.

    "I used to work as a midwife in Baku," Emma says. "When we were escaping
    from Baku I couldn't take my medical school diploma. Head of the village
    didn't allow me to become a nurse. He said I had no diploma (medical
    association of the region appoints nurses, however, head of the village can
    offer his candidature)."

    There is only one car in the village but it is very old and hardly works.
    When somebody is seriously sick, the car becomes an ambulance. But if the
    road is closed by snow, or if there is no petrol, patients are taken by
    horse. Roman remembers when his daughter was seriously ill he took her to
    the city, carrying her along in a sled.

    But when a villager is too sick to be moved, he is at the mercy of fate
    because it is impossible to call an ambulance. One villager died this winter
    as a result.

    Geghakar has little to show as improvement since it became this involuntary
    home. It has, however, built a school with money given by Diaspora. Twelve
    students attend the eight-grade school. Those who wish to study beyond
    eighth grade must go to Lusakunk. Few, however, are likely to do so, as it
    would require walking 14 kilometers a day on a desolate road. Roman says his
    daughter is an excellent pupil, however, after finishing eight years in
    school she will not continue her study.

    A month ago a bus to Vardenis began operating once every two weeks. However,
    it is not clear how long that route will be in use.

    At least there was a shop here those days (when the refugees first
    settled)," Roman Karapetyan says. "But now even if you die nobody will know
    about it. I have arms and legs. I can do everything. We are specialized in
    different professions but we sit here and have nothing to do. We can hardly
    keep a couple of sheep and cows to be able to exist. How could they bring
    citizens to these mountains?

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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