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  • Jerusalem: No room at the inn

    No room at the inn
    By NICKY BLACKBURN

    Jerusalem Post
    Dec 24 2004

    The first Christmas Christelle Erlich spent in Israel, she and her
    Jewish husband invited 10 couples for dinner. Erlich, a Catholic from
    Versailles, who had met her Israeli husband on an archeological dig
    in Beit Shemesh in 1990, decorated a Christmas tree, and spent the
    day cooking all the traditional Christmas foods. In keeping with her
    customs, she laid her table with three tablecloths, for the Father,
    the Son and the Holy Ghost, ready to celebrate the holiday with her
    Jewish friends.

    It was a stormy winter day and as the evening drew near, couple after
    couple began to cancel. It was too rainy, they complained. They were
    too tired, they had to get up early the next day. When, finally,
    the last couple phoned to say they couldn't come, Erlich switched
    off the oven, leaving a half-cooked turkey inside, and sat down on
    the sofa and wept.

    "I've never felt so lonely and alone," says 36-year-old Erlich,
    who now lives in Kadima. "No one understood the importance of this
    feast for me. To them it was just dinner. But for me it was a really
    significant occasion. If it had been Passover dinner, they would
    never have dropped out like that. It was terrible."

    For Christians living in Israel, Christmas can be one of the loneliest
    times of the year. Elsewhere around the world, the streets are filled
    with decorations, shops are overflowing with traditional Christmas
    fare, there are carols on street corners and dodgy Christmas grottos
    attended by cheery red-faced Santas and over-sized elves. Here,
    however, it is just an ordinary day. There are no decorations, no
    special events, no special programming on television, and not even
    a day off.

    "It's hard to imagine that Jesus was born in Israel," says Rita
    Boulus, an Anglican Protestant who lives in Neveh Shalom, a small
    village dedicated to peaceful coexistence between Arabs and Jews,
    which is tucked away in the hills leading up to Jerusalem. "You would
    think he was born in England. There is no atmosphere in Israel. You
    just don't feel the holiday."

    Boulus, an Israeli Arab, was born and brought up in Lod and remembers
    the Christmases of her childhood as joyful affairs. The family would
    decorate the house and dress in their best clothes. Both Muslim and
    Christian neighbors would visit their home to drink traditional liquors
    and eat chocolates and special yeast cakes. Boulus, a sweet-faced
    woman with black hair pulled back from her face, remembers her father
    coming home with his pockets stuffed full of chocolates, which he
    would hand out to the children. Often there were trips to Bethlehem
    or Ramallah for Christmas services.

    Today, Boulus still decorates her home for Christmas, with stockings,
    wreaths and a Christmas tree, and there are presents for her four
    children, but the holiday has become a low-key affair. The family
    celebrates with just immediate relatives or friends. They have a
    large dinner on Christmas Eve, followed by another on Christmas Day.
    Sometimes they go to church on Christmas morning. Now that visits to
    intifada-scarred Bethlehem are off the agenda, some Israeli Christians
    go to Amman instead.

    "Now I don't really feel that I have a Christmas," says Boulus,
    with a shrug.

    Lena Vahakian, an Armenian Christian, also celebrates Christmas
    festivities in a more subdued style than she did as a child. Born
    and brought up in the Old City of Jerusalem, she spent many of her
    Christmases in Bethlehem. As a member of an Armenian marching band,
    Vahakian would be invited to take part in celebrations with Palestinian
    marching bands on both December 25 and January 19, the date of the
    Armenian Christmas.

    "We all played for each other's celebrations, everyone respected each
    other," says 25-year-old Vahakian. "There were choirs, orchestras,
    drums, and Scottish bagpipes playing all day long. We would visit
    friends and family, and someone would dress up as Santa Claus and
    give out dozens of presents. It was very festive."

    The marching bands stopped when the intifada broke out. In the last
    two years, there have been no civic celebrations in Bethlehem either.
    "It's all changed," says Vahakian. "I don't feel safe going to
    Bethlehem, and even when the intifada stops, I don't know if it will
    ever be the same again."

    The Armenian community in Jerusalem has also diminished drastically
    in size. Today there are only about 3,000 Armenians left in the Old
    City, and many of Vahakian's friends have emigrated. Vahakian visits
    her mother for Christmas. Her two sisters are abroad, so it is often
    just the two of them.

    "It's nothing special," she admits. "We have the Christmas tree and
    give gifts, but it's not the same. I would love to be able to walk
    out on the street and see decorations or lights, but when I step out
    of my house now, I may not see another Christmas tree. Last year I
    saw a tiny Christmas tree in a shop and it made me smile. I feel sad
    that we do not have a proper Christmas here."

    THE TRUTH is that it is never easy to belong to a minority anywhere
    in the world, particularly such a small one. Today, Christians make
    up just 2.1 percent of the Israeli population, compared to 79.2%
    Jews, and 14.9% Muslims, according to government statistics, and this
    figure is declining, as increasing numbers of Christians emigrate.
    Christians are also divided into various faiths, such as Greek and
    Russian Orthodox, Catholic, Protestant and Anglican. Many Christians
    here liken their experiences at Christmas to what the Jews experience
    in the Diaspora during Jewish holidays.

    Vahakian admits that though she would love to see Christmas trees on
    the streets, she does not expect the Jewish state to provide them.

    "The Jews are scared to lose their identity because of what they have
    gone through in the past, and what they are still going through now
    with anti-Semitism. I think they fear that if they allowed a Christmas
    tree here or there, it would be the beginning of the end."

    Though most Christians are the first to admit that minorities
    everywhere feel isolated, what many find difficult here is the feeling
    that they are an unwanted minority. For some, this translates into
    something as simple as being unable to get time off from work on
    Christmas Day, for others it is more invidious.

    When Vahakian was young, her older sister, who now lives abroad,
    told her that when she grew up she would never wear a cross outside
    of her home. "Now I know what she means," admits Vahakian. "I still
    wear my cross sometimes, but people stare at me strangely."

    Vahakian was born in Jerusalem. So was her mother and her grandmother
    before her. In fact, the family has been living in Jerusalem for five
    generations. Despite this, she does not have Israeli citizenship,
    nor does she have a passport. Instead, every time she or another
    member of the family wants to leave Israel, they have to go to the
    Ministry of the Interior to get special travel documents. These can
    take months to arrange, and sometimes trips have been cancelled simply
    because documents did not come in time.

    "If you are Armenian and you live in Jerusalem, it's virtually
    impossible to get citizenship," says Vahakian, who has now hired a
    lawyer to fight for her right to a passport. "This is why so many
    Armenians have left. Life is just too hard here."

    "Israelis are not at all open to Christians," says Erlich. "They
    don't like to know there are Christians here. They don't consider
    them at the same level. For them, Judaism is the important thing.
    Christianity is threatening."

    When Erlich first arrived in Israel, she decided to convert to
    Judaism because she thought it would be the best way to become a
    real Israeli. She approached a number of rabbis, but each time was
    turned away because her partner, a kohen, would not be able to marry
    a convert.

    "The rabbis treated me very badly," admits Erlich. "They told me to
    go back home, that I don't belong here, and that I shouldn't steal
    a nice Jewish boy away. I was very hurt."

    Unable to marry in Israel, Erlich and her partner got married in
    Cyprus. A later attempt to convert her three children was also met
    with resistance. Though Erlich is open about her religion, she admits
    that she does not go out of her way to tell people she is Christian.

    "I don't need to advertise the fact that I am different. I'm afraid
    they might treat me another way if they knew."

    She worries for her children.

    "They feel Jewish, but they also feel different," she admits.
    "Children at my son's school call him the French boy, it's only a
    matter of time before they call him the Christian boy. I'm waiting
    for it. My children can serve in the military and pay taxes, but they
    cannot be married here, nor buried in a Jewish cemetery."

    For Arab Christians, the difficulties are even more pronounced.

    "We are a minority within a minority," exclaims Daoud Boulus, Rita's
    54-year-old husband, as he sits drinking strong coffee on a sunlit
    terrace outside his house.

    "I don't feel I can express myself as a Christian here. Arab
    Christians are constantly under a magnifying glass and our loyalty
    is questioned. The Jews think of us as Arabs and Palestinians, while
    the Arabs regard Christianity as a Western religion, and wonder if
    we are really their Arab brothers, or whether our faith and feelings
    are somewhere else."

    "A minority is always suspected. As Arabs and Christians, we are
    considered second or even third class," says Rev. Samuel Fanous,
    the Anglican priest in charge of the parishes of Ramle, Jaffa
    and Lod. Fanous finds that the sentiment towards his congregation
    varies from place to place, according to the strength and economic
    prosperity of the community, and the support it receives from the local
    authorities. In Ramle, for instance, there are some 4,000 Christians,
    within a population of 70,000 Arabs and Jews. The Christian community
    enjoys the support of the local Jewish mayor, and at Christmas,
    the Ramle municipality even provides money for Christmas decorations
    outside the city church.

    In Lod, however, where there are just 800 Christians, the story is
    very different. In past years, Fanous used to dress up as Santa Claus
    and deliver presents to his parishioners there. He gave that up after
    he suffered harassment from local Muslim children.

    FOR ISRAEL'S large and strong Russian population, Christmas and New
    Year celebrations are far more open affairs. Some 50,000 Russians are
    registered as Christian, while 270,000 more are not Jewish according
    to Halacha. After decades of communism, many Russians do not celebrate
    either Christian or Jewish holidays. Instead, they have picked New
    Year's Eve on December 31 as their main festival, and they use all the
    Christian symbols - including Christmas trees, presents and even Santa
    Claus, who is reincarnated as the grandfather of ice - to celebrate.

    Russian TV channels run broadcasts of the New Year's festivities,
    and restaurants and clubs hold special entertainments.

    "It's not at all difficult to celebrate this holiday," says
    Ukrainian-born Natasha Shchukina, 35, who runs an advertising agency
    in Tel Aviv. "Now the local firms understand this holiday, they do
    everything they can to increase sales during this period. It doesn't
    bother us that we are celebrating a holiday that most people here
    do not, because there are so many of us. No one helps us, but no one
    interferes with us either."

    For Christians from smaller minority groups, however, there is an
    urgent need for more support. Erlich believes that a great deal more
    could be done to foster understanding between the religions, and that
    schools and kindergartens should not only teach the Jewish festivals,
    but should teach the festivals of other religions too. With this in
    mind, she approached her son's school, and asked if she could give
    a class on Christmas. Her son's teacher was uncomfortable at first,
    and referred her to the school's head teacher. Erlich was finally
    given the go-ahead, and on December 24 she will teach a class at her
    son's school about Christmas.

    "There is enormous pressure to learn about the Jewish feasts, but
    in every classroom across the country, you will probably find one or
    two pupils who never once hear about their own holidays or feasts,"
    she says. "It can be a very isolating experience."

    And what of Erlich's Christmas this year?

    "I still invite people to dinner every year, and every year some of
    them don't come, which hurts. But I don't do it for them, I do it
    for me. I will always celebrate Christmas. It's part of me. Christmas
    is about sharing and giving, and these are very important values. My
    children look forward to Christmas. I read them stories about Jesus
    and Mary, and I tell them it's important for them to know this story,
    because it happened here in Israel, and it is part of them."

    Some names have been changed.
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