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  • One-way odyssey

    The Age, Australia
    Sept 23 2004

    One-way odyssey
    September 23, 2004


    Exciting jobs created by the Olympics have made young Greek
    Australians want to stay in Athens. Victoria Kyriakopoulos reports.

    Four years ago, Melbourne chef Costa Garyfallou quit Australia to try
    his luck in Greece, curious about the heritage he had resisted for
    most of his life.

    His first taste of Greece had been during a working European holiday
    in 1997 and he was determined to return and see more of the country
    his parents had left behind. In 2000, he did six months in the Greek
    army to get his Greek citizenship before landing a job in one of
    Athens' trendy new restaurants.

    Since then, Garyfallou, 32, has cooked Australian-style fusion at
    leading restaurants in Athens, Mykonos and Santorini, spent a summer
    as the chef on a private cruiser, and cooked for the Prime Minister
    and Greece's top businessmen, actors and celebrities. This year he
    landed the plum job of executive chef at the Karaiskaki soccer
    stadium, cooking for 1500 people a day during the Olympics.

    "The irony is that the land of opportunity for me has been Greece,"
    says Garyfallou, who grew up in Keilor Park and learnt his craft at
    Melbourne restaurants including Cafe e Cucina in South Yarra. "Doors
    opened for me here that I couldn't have dreamed of in Australia."

    Garyfallou is part of a small but steady wave of young Greek
    Australians who have been drawn back and are thriving in the country
    their parents or grandparents forsook to give their children a better
    life.

    But in contrast to their parents, who migrated to Australia as
    largely uneducated, unskilled workers, this generation has returned
    to Greece equipped with education, professional skills and
    confidence. To their surprise, many are finding themselves staying.

    "I came here to find out what my heritage was about. It's something
    that I came to embrace late. Before that I was almost anti- Greek. I
    didn't even want to speak Greek," Garyfallou recalls. "Greece gives
    me work and it gives me a good life and lifestyle and it gives me
    history, culture and a sense of belonging.

    "I can't see myself going back (to Australia). Here I work to live
    not live to work. It's not a work ethic but a life ethic. It's just
    that I've now split the family in two."

    More than 40,000 Greek Australians are estimated to be living
    permanently in Greece, a reverse migration that began in the 1970s,
    when some families started returning while their children were
    relatively young. Others, many of them young women, came to Greece
    for a summer holiday and ended up getting married and staying. Others
    have come back to retire.

    While most Greek Australians feel a strong sentimental pull, Greece
    was until recently seen as a great place to visit but not to live.
    Few seriously contemplated leaving steady jobs in Australia to work
    in the urban jungle of Athens. But Greece today is a far cry from the
    poverty-stricken country their parents left. And in the past five
    years, Athens has developed rapidly.

    Melbourne architect Kalliope Malapani, 34, was one of many Greek
    Australians who jumped at the chance to work in Athens for the
    Olympics, arriving at the end of 2000 to work on the design of the
    stadiums. She has since taken a longer-term job that allows her to
    stay on indefinitely.

    While Greece's notorious bureaucracy remains a major source of
    frustration, Malapani says she takes the negative in her stride and
    uses the experience she gained in Australia to her advantage. "One of
    the fantastic things about professional life in Australia is they
    take you and, if you have smarts, they push you. You can be well
    rounded at a relatively young age. Here the 35-year-olds don't have
    the confidence."

    She is thrilled that her Greek is now good enough to be making
    presentations in Greek architecture-speak. Malapani feels something
    innate and comfortable about living in Greece, but she is still torn
    about whether she will make the choice for life. Feeling
    professionally challenged is paramount, but social and emotional
    aspects weigh heavily on her decision. "Part of what drove me here
    was a need to live my culture, and then maybe reject it and put it in
    a box, but I remember thinking when I came here how far it had
    slipped away from me.

    "It's a complex and beautiful city and country, and I am challenged
    on all levels. It's enlivening and you are not getting into the rut
    that can exist in professional and social life in Australia.

    "But having been given the gifts of Australia, and coming here and
    making an intelligent, informed choice to stay, it's very difficult."

    While her family in Melbourne is proud she got the Olympics job, no
    one anticipated it could be a permanent move. "I think they feel some
    sort of comfort from the fact that they know the environment I have
    put myself in, but if I called up and said `Mum I just met a Greek
    and I am about to commit to living here,' I don't know what they
    would say." For men, a major deterrent has always been the mandatory
    military service, but these days many are opting to do a commuted
    six-months' service to secure citizenship and a coveted EU passport.

    Shipping lawyer George Panagopoulos, 35, has just finished his stint
    in the army, clearing the way for a future in Greece. He moved to
    Piraeus, the heart of Athens shipping industry in 2001, from London,
    and later joined the international firm Richards Butler.

    "The opportunity arose to come here and it was too good to refuse,
    professionally and in all sorts of ways. I know both cultures and
    both languages and it was a great way to utilise all my skills."

    With the Olympics and the introduction of a common European currency,
    the timing could not have been better. "Professionally it's been a
    good place to be. The work here is very interesting, it's very
    international and probably more international that I would have been
    doing in Australia."

    Panagopoulos has no short-term plan to return to Australia but does
    not discount the possibility. "If I was going to leave Greece I would
    go back to Australia. I think it is a bit easier to bring up a family
    there. But Australia is not like it used to be. It is a totally
    overregulated society in many ways. Greece is still quite liberated."

    Panagopoulos, an only child, says his parents, who are retired and
    spend time in Greece, have been positive about his decision, and are
    even considering returning themselves. "I think they are going to
    come back for good if I don't go back to Australia."

    Not everyone has that option, and many families are dealing with the
    trauma of being split again, with children and grandchildren now
    living in both countries. In one family all three children moved back
    to Greece, leaving their parents alone in Australia waiting until
    they were eligible for their pensions.

    Musician Hector Cosmas was drawn to Greece in 1998 by the music, but
    has now married and started a family in Athens. A third-generation
    Australian, he arrived in Greece with his violin, very poor Greek and
    a passion for rebetika (Greek blues) and traditional Greek music.

    "A lot of Greek Australians of my generation come to Greece on
    holidays and feel some sort of connection to this place. For a Greek
    musician that connection is something more.

    "I felt that in Australia I was stagnating a little and I knew that
    if I wanted to grow as a musician this was the place to be. I didn't
    really think about where I would be 10 or 20 years down the track."

    Cosmas has been playing with one of the most established rebetika
    musicians and has had the opportunity to work with some of the finest
    artists in the country. He married a Greek-Canadian in 2000 and has
    two children. "Athens has improved dramatically as a place to live,"
    he says. "As a musician I can see a future here for myself and I can
    see us being here long-term, but when you have a family with kids
    there are other considerations.

    "But for now Greece is home." Cosmas believes Australia has gone
    backwards in terms of multiculturalism, and has become more
    xenophobic. "There have been lots of times in the last few years that
    I've felt glad I'm not living there."

    Tania Nassibian, 25, has been in Greece for five years making a
    career as a singer, recording two CDs with Sony Music and
    collaborating with some of Greece's leading artists. "I never thought
    I'd work here. It never crossed my mind, but I have loved the
    experience. I'm happy that I've finally learnt Greek. I have family
    here and it was a good opportunity to get to know them."

    Nassibian grew up in Sydney where her Greek mother ran a folkloric
    dance school and her Armenian father ran a business. She had finished
    school and was living in Paris when she was offered the recording
    contract in Greece.

    Nassibian, who sings in English, Greek and French, is now trying to
    break into the international scene and expects to stay in Greece for
    the short term at least.

    "I love Greece. It is the land of opportunity because you can do
    whatever you want. I have enjoyed my life here but I've also
    struggled a lot because of the disorganisation. I don't think that
    I'd like to permanently stay here," she says.

    "I have sacrificed my family and I never expected to be overseas for
    so long. I love the craziness of Europe but I also miss the
    Australian way of life, and I miss my brothers and dad. "Australia
    has everything except the life and spirit that Europe has. I have a
    feeling I will end up in Australia. The ideal thing would be to have
    a house there and a house here."
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