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A Muslim holds the Christians' key in Old Jerusalem

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  • A Muslim holds the Christians' key in Old Jerusalem

    CBC News, Canada
    April 27 2005

    A Muslim holds the Christians' key in Old Jerusalem
    CBC News Viewpoint | April 27, 2005 | More from Julia Glover

    Julia Glover is a freelance journalist currently working in
    Jerusalem. Before moving to the Middle East, she worked in Canada and
    the United Kingdom for both print and television media. She is
    interested in covering all sides of the current conflict and is
    especially keen to cover the personal stories behind the headlines.

    This week Christians from around the world will gather at Jerusalem's
    Church of the Holy Sepulchre for the ceremony of Holy Fire. The
    Orthodox tradition commemorates the resurrection of Christ, and light
    filtering onto the tomb of Jesus is meant to be a miracle sent from
    Heaven. Wajeeh Nuseibeh knows it is also the only way into the church
    without a key.


    Nuseibeh at the Church door
    Nuseibeh is the custodian and doorkeeper of the church, one of the
    most sacred sites in Christianity, where faithful attend regular
    services as well as special masses like Easter blessings or prayers
    for the Pope.

    "It is a duty and I am proud to have a special job in one of the
    holiest sites for Christians," Nuseibeh says of the place where
    Christians from around the world come to pray.

    He arrives at the church every morning at 4 a.m. and uses a 30-cm
    iron key to unlock its doors for worshippers. Until 8:30 in the
    evening, 55-year-old Nuseibeh stays inside or near the church, then
    he raps the iron doorknocker at the entrance to signal its closing.
    He does this again at 8:45, and finally at 9 p.m. he shuts both heavy
    wooden doors.

    Before he leaves for the night, Nuseibeh makes sure there are no
    candles burning, no thieves inside and nothing to cause harm. It's a
    routine he follows seven days a week, for which he receives $18.50
    each month, occasionally supplementing his income with guided tours.

    As a Muslim, he seems an unlikely candidate to be the custodian, but
    only to those who don't know the history of the church.


    Faithful praying at the 13th station of the cross
    According to Christian belief, the Via Dolorosa, or Way of the Cross,
    is the path taken by Jesus from Pilate's judgment hall to the site of
    his crucifixion. It has been followed by millions of pilgrims and is
    contained within the historic walls of Jerusalem's Old City, which is
    divided into Muslim, Christian, Armenian and Jewish quarters.

    There are 14 Stations of the Cross, each commemorating an event on
    that route. The last five are located at the Church of the Holy
    Sepulchre.

    Just outside the church is the 10th station, where Jesus is believed
    to have had his clothes stripped from him. The 11th station, inside
    the church, is where his body was nailed to the cross.

    The 12th station marks where Jesus died. The 13th is where his body
    was removed from the cross and anointed with oils in preparation for
    his burial. Finally, the 14th station is his tomb.

    With such significant points, it's understandable that several
    denominations have laid claim to the site. The church is officially
    shared by the Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox,
    Syrian Orthodox, Ethiopians and Copts. Each division controls certain
    areas and exercises its worship at different times of the day.

    But in a region infamous for religious turf wars, the church is not
    immune to conflict. Interdenominational wrangling has occurred over
    everything from restoration work to the route of the Easter
    procession and has, on occasion, turned violent.

    So Nuseibeh's role is as much about peacekeeping as it is about
    guardianship.

    At least since the time of Saladin, also known as the second Muslim
    period (1187-1517), the Nuseibeh family has held the keys to the
    church and the family views it as a symbol of solidarity between
    Muslims and Christians.


    The Church courtyard
    Nuseibeh, who inherited the job from his father, expects to pass it
    on to his son, or brother, or cousin. But, he admits, not everyone
    believes the custom should continue.

    "We are neutral here," Nuseibeh announces, but he says some
    Christians are surprised to discover his role and suggest the Muslim
    custodian should be thrown out. "They don't know that we are making
    peace between the churches," he says.

    In the sunny courtyard of the church, some of the locals and tourists
    are unaware of the tradition while others say it makes perfect sense.


    "It's a counter-witness to Jesus Christ that the churches could not
    agree," says Herbert, a pilgrim from Germany. "He prayed that they
    could all be one, and here they are fighting."

    "But I think it's a good thing that the Muslims are not excluded,"
    adds his wife, Ute. "This way, they are one."

    An Israeli family visiting the area had not heard of the custom
    before. "Everything is so mixed up here. This is the Christian
    Quarter, but many people who live here are Muslims. Many are Greeks,
    Arabs, there are even Jews here, so it makes sense, I think," says
    Shahar, who lives in the south of Israel.

    Shahar points out that Jewish tradition also calls for
    inter-religious harmony on important occasions, such as selling bread
    to a non-Jew ahead of Passover.

    Although overshadowed by the region's violent reputation, peace is in
    fact preached across Jerusalem in several different houses of
    worship. And, in a place where daily lives can be dictated by the
    Bible, the Koran and the Torah, faith isn't just about religion. It's
    about trust.
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