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Andy Griffin: Down on the Farm

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  • Andy Griffin: Down on the Farm

    Santa Cruz Sentinel, CA
    Aug 24 2005

    Andy Griffin: Down on the Farm

    Have you ever heard of a task being pursued "to the bitter end" and
    wondered why the end has to be bitter?

    I'm a farmer, not a linguist, but I suspect the end is bitter because
    the person who minted that metaphor was chewing on a cucumber.

    Cucumbers are mild nowadays, and serve as perfectly innocuous
    dip-delivery vehicles, but this was not always the case. In fact, if
    you grow an old-fashioned, heirloom cucumber variety in your garden
    and allow it to become stressed by heat and drought you may still
    taste "the bitter end".

    For the tender, juicy cucumber bitterness is a successful
    evolutionary trait. The arid mountains of northern India are the
    ancestral home of the domesticated cucumber and wild species still
    grow there.

    A cucumber is about 98 percent water. When a ripe cucumber fruit
    decomposes on the ground, the moisture that's released from the
    rotting tissue can be enough to sprout the cucumber's seeds and
    maintain the infant seedlings until a rainstorm.

    But in a hot, dry environment, a succulent cucumber would look pretty
    inviting to a thirsty rodents and humans. So wild cucumbers protected
    themselves from predation by evolving a spiny skin, and by suffusing
    their moist flesh with bitter flavors.

    Many modern varieties of cucumber still sport reduced, vestigial
    spines, at least while their fruits are juvenile, but agronomists
    have bred out almost all of the bitterness from the domesticated
    cultivars.

    I say "almost" because the growing tip at the end of the cucumber,
    the bitter end, has been the last part of the cucumber to get tamed.
    Soon, thanks to all the advances being made in crop science, a
    cliched phrase may be all that's left of the cucumber's original wild
    flavor.

    For the well-grown domestic cucumber, at least, the end is always
    crunchy, wet and mild.

    It's hot now, which means cucumbers are sweet and happy as long as
    they're not thirsty. When we're out in the fields picking cukes, we
    keep an eye out for snakes. I'm sure we'll find a ton of snakes in
    our fields this week because we're harvesting snake melons.

    The snake melon is long and slender like a snake. Some snake melons
    even curl, as though they are about to strike. But don't fear; they
    will calmly allow themselves to be sliced into coins and slathered
    with yogurt and dill for a snack which is as cool as a cucumber.

    In fact, even though it's a bit of a botanical lie, most growers
    prefer to label snake melons as "Armenian cucumbers" when they sell
    them.

    It's no lie that Armenian cucumbers came from Armenia; they were
    introduced into Italy from Armenia in the 1400s, it's just that
    they're not cucumbers.

    Armenian cucumbers are melons, snake melons, or Cucumis melo, like
    the cantaloupe, not Cucumis sativus, like a true cucumber.

    If you plant a handsome Armenian cucumber next to a lovely Lebanese
    cucumber in a soft fluffy bed at the corner of your garden, they
    won't promiscuously tickle each others' stigmas and stamens to any
    great consequence. No melumbers or cukelons can sprout out of wedlock
    because the facts of botany decree against it.

    None of these facts about botanical nomenclature will make any
    difference to consumers once they taste the snake melons.

    These vegetable serpents are as crunchy and versatile as regular
    cucumbers even when their fruits get big. Mature Armenian cucumbers
    may reach several feet in length, but their flesh remains as tender,
    moist and edible.

    Snake melons make great salads, and you can even slip them into the
    next English cucumber sandwich you serve the Queen for tea. She'd
    never notice. But can't you see the bold type and scandalous
    headlines in the British tabloids if the news leaked out that the
    Queen ate an Armenian cucumber at your house?

    They would scream: "Elizabeth Regina Ate A Snake And Smiled!"

    At least it wouldn't be a story with a bitter end.
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