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  • Music: Caucasus' orchestra for peace

    Music: Caucasus' orchestra for peace
    By Meline Toumani The New York Times

    International Herald Tribune, France
    Aug 26 2005

    BATUMI, Georgia Two years ago, Uwe Berkemer, a German conductor
    working in the Georgian capital, Tbilisi, had an idea that seemed
    simple, even sweet: Create a chamber orchestra with musicians from
    all over the Caucasus, a region between the Black and Caspian Seas
    that separates Europe from Asia and is home to ethnic groups that
    speak more than 40 languages.

    The orchestra, he imagined, would demonstrate that music is a unifying
    force. And it would symbolize the potential for peace among groups
    engaged in intractable conflicts over land and sovereignty: Russians
    and Chechens, Georgians and Abkhazians, Armenians and Azerbaijanis,
    to name a few.

    Inspired by the momentum for change in Georgia following the 2003
    bloodless revolution that ousted the former Soviet republic's longtime
    leader, Eduard Shevardnadze, Berkemer set out on a mission that
    mixed music and politics: His Caucasian Chamber Orchestra would be
    a permanent, full-time performing group, based in Tbilisi, bringing
    together the best musicians from Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and
    the North Caucasus areas of Russia. But when Berkemer sought the
    support of cultural ministries in each country, he discovered that
    not everyone agreed that music should transcend ethnic disputes.

    Georgia was quick to sign on. Armenia soon followed, despite rising
    tensions between Georgians and ethnic Armenians living in Georgia's
    Javakheti region. But there was no word from Azerbaijan.

    After five months and many earnest overtures from Berkemer, European
    Union delegates and diplomats throughout the region, a letter
    arrived. Azerbaijan's minister of culture, Polad Bulbuloglu, who had
    been a Soviet-era pop star, wrote that Azerbaijani musicians would
    not participate. It would be inconceivable to place them alongside
    Armenian musicians, he wrote, as long as Armenian forces occupied
    the disputed enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh.

    Berkemer eventually hired 5 musicians from Armenia, 10 from Georgia
    and 1 from Dagestan, a Muslim-populated region of Russia bordering
    Chechnya. A chamber orchestra should have 16 to 19 musicians, "so we
    are saving three seats" for the Azerbaijanis, he said, "whenever they
    are ready to join us."

    The next problem for the orchestra was how to make a proper debut.

    Berkemer and his staff decided to organize a festival in Batumi,
    the capital of the Ajaria region, on the Black Sea.

    Batumi looks peculiar even before an onlooker learns of its history.
    Thanks to its seaside location, tall palms line the streets, and
    a mild, wet climate creates a relaxed, tropical feeling. But large
    blocks of shabby Soviet-style apartment buildings loom over the beach
    cafes, reminding visitors that this quiet resort town has been through
    tumultuous changes in the last century, the last decade and even in
    the last year.

    Until a year ago, Aslan Abashidze, who ruled Ajaria for 13 years,
    ran the region as though it were his private kingdom. When Georgia's
    new president, Mikhail Saakashvili, took power early last year, one
    of his first moves was to assert national sovereignty over the region,
    forcing Abashidze to flee the country.

    According to Ajaria's newly reinstated minister of culture, Alexandre
    Gegenava, local cultural life was transformed. "For 13 years,
    Abashidze controlled all performances to suit his own interests,"
    Gegenava said. "Normal people could not attend concerts. It was
    always just the same people: his ministers, his bodyguards and his
    slaves. Everybody knew whose seat was whose."

    Gegenava, who also worked in cultural administration during the
    Soviet era, said that he himself would not have been able to enter
    the theater during the Abashidze years.

    Learning of this detail late in the planning process, Berkemer wondered
    whether his orchestra's debut, and the Batumi Music Festival overall,
    were doomed to echo in empty halls.

    Opening night on Aug. 11 was encouraging. The Batumi Theater, which
    seats about 500, was two-thirds full, and the diversity of the audience
    would have been notable anywhere in the world: a mix of children and
    adults; dignitaries from Tbilisi, Germany and Britain; a local priest,
    and tanned tourists.

    Berkemer led the orchestra through Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" and
    Tchaikovsky's Serenade for Strings. Marina Iashvili, a prominent
    violin soloist of the Soviet era, performed with the group. The young
    orchestra members - many of them fresh from conservatories in Tbilisi
    and Yerevan, Armenia - beamed as the audience demanded four encores.

    And in a move that won him many fans, Berkemer - standing out with
    pale skin and white-blond hair in a room full of black-haired,
    dark-eyed locals - sang an unofficial Georgian anthem, "Suliko."

    For a Saturday night "Concert for Peace," Berkemer chose Britten's
    "Lachrymae" and Hindemith's "Trauermusik" (Funeral Music). He wanted
    to play Hindemith, he said, because the composer had been exiled from
    Nazi Germany after Goebbels denounced him as an "atonal noisemaker."
    The composer's experience as a refugee and the melancholy quality of
    his composition, Berkemer said, lent respect to Caucasian war victims,
    to whom the concert was dedicated.

    Other festival events included late-night serenades in the
    candle-lighted art museum by a vocal ensemble, Largo, which presented
    songs from Chechnya, Ossetia and regions in Georgia; and by the Batumi
    State Vocal Ensemble, which performed in the characteristic Georgian
    male a cappella tradition.

    Batumi residents seemed enthusiastic about the Caucasian Chamber
    Orchestra but retained mixed expectations for solutions to the ethnic
    conflicts in the region.

    Giorgi Masalkin, a deputy in the Ajaria Supreme Council and a professor
    of philosophy at Batumi State University, had taken his young daughter
    to see the orchestra perform. "I want her to see the similarities
    between people," he said. "Acknowledging what's common between you
    and your neighbors is 50 percent of good relations."
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