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16 years after earthquake devastated Armenia, int'l aid continues

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  • 16 years after earthquake devastated Armenia, int'l aid continues

    Knight Ridder Newspapers
    Jan 25 2005


    16 years after earthquake devastated Armenia, international aid
    continues

    By Mark McDonald

    SPITAK, Armenia - When rescuers began pulling victims from the rubble
    of the sugar factory here in 1988, the corpses seemed like ghastly,
    crimson ghosts: The bodies were covered with an awful goo, a
    coagulating mixture of blood and powdered sugar.

    The earthquake that crushed the sugar plant also destroyed every
    other factory in this mountainous patch of northern Armenia. The
    6.9-magnitude quake flattened schools, churches, homes and hospitals.
    More than 25,000 people died. Half a million were left homeless.

    The 1988 disaster was hardly on the scale of last month's Asian
    tsunami, but the grief and horror were the same. So was the
    international response - massive, immediate, global and heartfelt.

    But despite the huge donations and numerous successes,
    post-earthquake Armenia could serve as a cautionary tale for the
    tsunami region: Even the most heavily financed and best-intentioned
    relief missions can be derailed by the aftershocks of economic
    crises, corruption, politics and war.

    "The people in the tsunami, their pain is our pain," said Asya
    Khakchikyan, 70, who lost her husband, daughter and granddaughter in
    the Spitak quake. "When I see the faces of those poor people in Asia,
    I see the faces of the ones I lost."

    Other disaster zones have had bitter experiences with relief efforts
    that dwindled or disappeared almost as soon as they started. When the
    news media move on, aid missions often do the same.

    That didn't happen here, government officials, diplomats, aid workers
    and survivors agree. After 16 years, international relief efforts
    continue, many of them generous and effective.

    A housing program under the U.S. Agency for International Development
    ended only last month in the shattered city of Gyumri. The Peace
    Corps has 85 volunteers in Armenia, several U.N. programs remain
    active and dozens of international agencies and private foundations
    continue to work in the region.

    "We haven't recovered yet, but at least say we're no longer dying,"
    said Albert Papoyan, the mayor of the hardscrabble village of
    Shirmakoot, the epicenter of the quake. "We're finally starting to
    breathe."

    An estimated 20,000 people across the quake zone still occupy the
    metal shipping containers known here as "domiks." The containers once
    held emergency provisions that came from abroad. Now people live in
    them.

    Only one of Spitak's factories is back in business, and it employs
    only a small fraction of the people it did before.

    Some aid workers complain that some people still expect handouts.

    Spitak lost 5,003 people to the earthquake, nearly a fourth of its
    population. The quake struck Dec. 7, just before noon, when children
    were in school and most adults were working at the sugar plant, the
    elevator factory, the leather tannery or the sewing collective.

    Spitak Mayor Vanik Asatryan said every house and apartment building
    in his city collapsed - all 5,635 of them. Other towns and villages
    also were reduced to rubble.

    "Everyone," he said, "was homeless."

    Asatryan and others praised the quick response of the Soviet
    government - Armenia was part of the Soviet Union in 1988 - although
    communist construction teams inexplicably began putting up row upon
    row of low-quality, concrete apartment blocks, exactly like the ones
    that had just collapsed.

    International aid also poured in. The grand total after 16 years is
    difficult to estimate, although government officials suggest it could
    be close to $2 billion, half of what's been pledged for tsunami
    relief.

    "The whole world helped Spitak," Asatryan said.

    Today, Spitak's new neighborhoods - built to exacting new codes - are
    known as the French, Italian and Uzbek districts, commemorating the
    countries that financed them.

    The immediate U.S. response was a planeload of search-and-rescue dogs
    and rescue teams from Fairfax County, Va. The plane took off without
    a flight plan, and U.S. officials weren't sure it would be allowed to
    land in Soviet territory or that the rescuers, who had no visas,
    would be allowed to get off.

    American tents, heaters, food and medicine soon followed. Trauma
    counselors also arrived, along with some teachers of transcendental
    meditation.

    Today, Armenia is one of the largest per-capita recipients of U.S.
    government aid in the world, reportedly second only to Israel. A
    large and influential immigrant population in the United States helps
    drive those government appropriations.

    Armenian-American businesspeople also donate heavily. The Lincy
    Foundation, underwritten by the billionaire Kirk Kerkorian, has been
    particularly effective in building housing, roads and tunnels in the
    quake zone.

    Aid workers grumble that the deluge of assistance created a caste of
    "professional victims" hooked on handouts. One former Red Cross
    worker said residents would become enraged when he was a day or two
    late delivering free medicine.

    "They think all the world owes them everything," said Yulia Antonyan,
    a program officer at the Eurasia Foundation. "People will sit around
    a table saying this country gave us too little or the Uzbeks build
    bad buildings."

    The cash-strapped Armenian government has been hard-pressed to create
    housing, jobs and development programs on its own.

    Tens of thousands of former factory workers, for example, now rely on
    small subsistence plots of potatoes and cabbage. The soil is thin,
    the winters are brutal and freak summer hailstorms wrecked the wheat
    harvest for two years running.

    The hollow shells of ruined factories add a ghostly gloom to the
    area, and only one of the Soviet-era enterprises has managed to
    reopen: Asatryan, Spitak's mayor, got a World Bank loan to
    resuscitate the sewing collective, and he has 250 employees stitching
    military uniforms for the Dutch, British and Americans.

    Before the quake, however, the sewing factory had 5,000 employees.
    Two-thirds of local adults are still unemployed, and the average
    salary is about $2.50 a day.

    "I feel completely abandoned by the government," said the widow
    Khachikyan, who subsists on a $13 monthly pension, half of which she
    spends on an asthma inhaler. She picks wormy apples from a nearby
    park and lives in a metal trailer left behind by the Italians.

    "I've been in this domik for 15 years. They keep saying they'll give
    me an apartment, but they never do."

    She managed a shrug and a wheezing laugh, and said, "I guess they'll
    give me an apartment when I die."
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