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  • Wine history link to jar of grapes in ruler's harem

    Wine history link to jar of grapes in ruler's harem
    By Maggie Beale

    China Daily, China
    July 22 2005

    2005-07-22 06:04

    Questions from reader Paul Murphy prompted this week's article on
    wines of ancient times. Basically, 1) Were wines aged to last in
    Roman times? 2) Were there vineyards before then? 3) Did the Romans
    teach the French (in Provence) how to make wine?

    Wine-making skills of the Romans most probably came via the ancient
    Greek colonies in Sicily and southern Italy. Homeric texts (8th century
    BC), record that matured vintages of Greek wines were accorded great
    reverence - probably akin to that awarded to 19th and early 20th
    century Bordeaux today.

    Wall paintings on Egyptian tombs, circa 3,000 BC, show workers pruning
    vines with a curved hand-tool very similar to the small scythe still
    used in parts of rural Greece and Italy today. Several such implements
    and ancient links to wine have survived centuries of wine making.

    "Think of Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon 605-562 BC. The giant bottle
    holding 20 regular bottles of wine is named after him. He drank wine
    before the Romans ever tipped a goblet," historian diplomat Massimo
    Baistrocchi told me some time ago.

    According to the great Greek historian Herodotus, (circa 484-425 BC)
    Persians loved wines. Called the "father of history" by Cicero, he
    wrote nine books on the wars between Greece and Persia containing
    much incidental information on life at the time.

    Baistrocchi says, "There is one tale which says wine was discovered
    by accident in Persia, when one from the ruler's harem found a great
    jar of grapes which had been stored for some time and fermented
    naturally. She poured a cup for her master and (presumably) became
    his favourite!".

    Even older Armenian legends say Noah planted the first vines near
    Erivan. And the Libation Scene in the "Standard" of Ur panel (Ur was
    an ancient city of Sumer, South Iraq, precursor of Babylon) dates
    from early 3,000 BC. A hollow box, decorated with scenes of the times,
    including wine drinking, is now in the British Museum. Amusingly, one
    side shows a potentate drinking from what looks like a Martini glass!

    Earliest records of wine in Egypt are inscribed on the stoppers of
    amphorae found in pre-dynastic tombs. The kings even had their own
    named vineyards: Rameses III (1198-1166 BC) was one. Hmm, imagine
    that label.

    Baistrocchi recalled, "The Romans not only brought wine to France but
    also to the Nahe Valley of Germany over 2000 years ago. Viticulture
    tools have been unearthed around the spa town of Bad Kreuznak; you
    can see them in the local museum there".

    Busy as they were, the Romans weren't the first to plant vines for
    wine. You have to look further east for that. As reported in the China
    Daily edition of June 23, 2003, "25 kilos of vintage wine from the
    Western Han dynasty (206 BC-AD 24) was discovered in a nobleman's tomb
    in Shaanxi Province during construction excavation, and its raw lacquer
    seal has kept it perfectly airtight". Some controversy surrounds the
    colour of the wine - it's green. Most likely the reaction of the wine
    with the bronze container. It's doubtful anyone has tasted it.

    Certainly, wine culture has spread all over the world, to South Africa
    since 1688 and Australia when the first commercial vineyard started
    in 1827. But that's a mere bagatelle when compared to ancient Roman
    and Chinese wines.

    Did the Romans teach the French to make wine? Most probably they
    shared an amphora or two - it's the convivial nature of wine drinking,
    don't you agree? And one thing soon leads to another.

    Maggie Beale is an international food and wine critic and judge;
    and president of Wine Writers Circle.
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