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  • Drawn to the Quarter

    Ha'aretz, Israel
    June 16 2005

    The Jewish Quarter in Jerusalem. After the Six-Day War in 1967, it
    was restored and important archaeological digs took place there.
    (Lior Mizrahi / BauBau) Many years ago, when I was writing my
    doctoral thesis, I used to visit the Jewish Studies reading room in
    the Jewish National and University Library at the Hebrew University
    in Jerusalem. I arrived when the library opened, so I could be the
    first to get to all the necessary books on the shelves.


    Drawn to the Quarter

    By Yehoshua Schwartz



    One day a stranger stood next to me, a man of average height with a
    thick mustache, and asked for one of the books on my desk.
    Incidentally, he also asked about the subject of my research. I told
    him I was working on the Jewish community in Judea during the
    Roman-Byzantine period, and that I was now researching the Ayalon
    Valley. He immediately asked if I was familiar with a large number of
    archeological artifacts from the region, which were relevant to my
    research. I was disheartened. I thought I had already read
    everything, that I knew everything. He recommended that I order from
    the library storehouse the Kibbutz Nahshon newsletter from the
    mid-1960s, and look for a personal column called "Al Harekhes" (On
    the Mountain Ridge).

    The man standing next to me was Rami Yizrael, the writer of the
    column and of the book under review. I learned from him that day not
    only about the Ayalon Valley region, but also about modesty,
    particularly academic modesty: There are serious scholars who are not
    a part of the academic world, and important things are published not
    only in the "research literature," but also in popular journals, and
    they and their writers should not be regarded with scorn.

    The book before us includes Yizrael's most important articles
    published over the years, in addition to several new studies, and
    deals mainly with three areas: the Jewish Quarter in Jerusalem's Old
    City, various sites and places in Jerusalem and its environs and
    various sites in Israel, especially Tiberias and Safed. The articles
    are research studies in the full sense of the word, but they have a
    practical aspect as well, and are highly recommended reading when you
    are on a tour or a field trip.




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    We cannot deal with the broad variety of subjects in the 20 chapters
    of the book, and will have to make do with drawing several
    conclusions from Yizrael's studies about the Old City in Jerusalem,
    the subject of the first section of the book and its first seven
    chapters. These articles were written in the wake of a comprehensive
    study conducted by the writer at the initiative of the Association
    for the Restoration and Development of the Old City, and as part of
    an attempt to strengthen its tourist potential.

    The Jewish Quarter was a "quarter," but not a European-type ghetto
    (or the "voluntary ghetto" that covered an area of 30 dunams in the
    Armenian Quarter), or the harat in Eastern countries. It was not
    surrounded by an (interior) wall, and was not restricted only to
    Jews. In medieval cities, residents were concentrated according to
    their ethno-religious origin, and in Jerusalem, which is sacred to
    the three religions, this phenomenon was especially prominent. In the
    Jewish Quarter, one could find Jews and Muslims alongside one
    another, and the same was true in the Muslim Quarter, an area that
    was popular among the Jews because of its proximity to the Temple
    Mount, and in light of the fact that it was impossible to settle in
    the closed Armenian Quarter, or in the Christian Quarter, which the
    Church leaders closed to Jewish residents.

    An interesting phenomenon in the Jewish Quarter is the connection
    between the Jewish residents and the synagogues, especially starting
    in the middle of the 19th century. Until then, there were synagogues
    in the Jewish Quarter, but because of the Omar Laws, which restricted
    the construction of non-Muslim houses of prayer, these were not
    particularly impressive buildings. In the 1860s, the Ottomans
    moderated the laws restricting the rights of minorities concerning
    the construction of houses of prayer, and the residents began to
    build synagogues. As a result, the Jewish population multiplied
    sevenfold in the 19th century, and the number of synagogues
    multiplied by 13, almost double the increase in the population. These
    synagogues attracted many worshipers, about 600 on average per
    synagogue in the middle of the 19th century.

    Overcrowding and poverty

    The increase in the number of residents in the Jewish Quarter led to
    terrible overcrowding and poverty. The development of the new city
    led the educated, the rich, laborers from the First and Second Aliyah
    (waves of immigration to Palestine in the late 19th and early 20th
    centuries), and most of those who could afford it, to leave the
    Jewish Quarter for the new city. By World War I, only poor people
    remained in the Old City, as well as the religious leadership of
    Jerusalem and most of its institutions. The process of abandoning the
    Jewish Quarter accelerated during the British Mandatory period
    (beginning in 1922), since the gap between the standard of living of
    the new city and the old one, only continued to grow.

    The situation continued to deteriorate in the wake of the Arab riots
    that began during Pesach in 1920. These were the first riots against
    the Jews of Jerusalem in generations. They were not limited only to
    the Jewish Quarter, or even to the Old City, and were renewed every
    few years until the 1948 War of Independence. The British forces
    often included Arab policemen, who did not interfere with the
    rioters, and sometimes even helped them. During these first riots,
    several members of the Haganah defense forces exhibited initiative
    and heroism. Rachel Yanait Ben Zvi, for example, penetrated the Old
    City wearing a disguise, passed via Hagai Street and Hashalshelet
    Street, and exited via the Jaffa Gate, in order to report on the
    situation to the Haganah. Nehemiah Rabin (a member of Hagdud Ha'Ivri
    - the Jewish Brigade, and father of the late prime minister Yitzhak
    Rabin) and Zvi Nadav (one of the veterans of the Hashomer defense
    group) evacuated the wounded.

    During the 30 years of the British Mandate, the number of Jewish
    residents in the Old City steadily decreased. In the new city during
    that period, another 28 Jews were added for every 10 residents,
    whereas in the Old City barely two out of every 10 Jewish residents
    remained. The buildings in the Jewish Quarter, which were hundreds of
    years old, were decrepit, and the sanitary conditions and other
    services were also in a bad state.

    After the Arab Revolt of 1936-1939, it was mainly an impoverished
    population that remained in the Jewish Quarter, with a large number
    of children and elderly people. In addition, there was a lack of
    authorized leadership there to confront the large number of problems
    that made life difficult for the residents. The Jewish Quarter was
    not fortunate during the War of Independence. After 13 consecutive
    days of fighting, it fell into the hands of the Arab Legion, on May
    28, 1948, about two weeks after the establishment of the State of
    Israel.

    Yizrael believes that the fall of the Jewish Quarter was the greatest
    and most scathing failure of the War of Independence. During that
    war, other communities fell as well, but the Jewish Quarter was the
    largest, and the only urban community. Other Jewish neighborhoods
    fell as well, but the Jewish Quarter was much more than a
    neighborhood. The author believes that the failure was worse because
    there were several opportunities to save it, which were not
    exploited.

    Jordanian rule

    The 19 years of Jordanian rule in the Jewish Quarter only accelerated
    the process of neglect. The Jewish Quarter was not restored during
    this period, but turned into a kind of refugee camp for those Arabs
    who had been uprooted from the Western neighborhoods of Jerusalem and
    from the surrounding villages. No real new buildings were
    constructed, and the infrastructure, which had been damaged during
    the war, was poorly maintained. However, this situation preserved the
    physical character of the quarter.

    After the Six-Day War in 1967, a new chapter in the history of the
    Jewish Quarter began. It was restored, important archaeological digs
    took place there, and the writer, as well as other researchers, began
    to tour and to research it. In recent years, the political-security
    situation has led to ups and downs in the fate of the Jewish Quarter.
    During periods of calm, Jews streamed into the Jewish Quarter and
    into the entire Old City. In times of crisis and attacks, people
    rarely tour its alleyways.

    Recently, we were informed (Haaretz, May 1) that "Israelis are
    returning to the Old City in Jerusalem." We can hope that they will
    return with Yizrael's book in hand, and tour there - as in Tiberias,
    Safed and Petah Tikva, and all the other sites researched in the
    author's book - out of the enjoyment of learning and the love of the
    country that underlie the research studies and are so deeply
    ingrained in the heart of soul of the writer.

    The writer is dean of the faculty of Jewish Studies at Bar-Ilan
    University
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