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  • Grounded in Richmond

    TimesDispatch.com
    Tuesday, Mar. 8, 2005

    Grounded in Richmond

    Coffee-shop owner traveled the world, then landed in West End to build a
    business and a family

    BY MELANIE MAYHEW

    TIMES-DISPATCH STAFF WRITER Mar 8, 2005

    Owner Jerry Epstein strives for eclecticism and comfort in his shop, Grove
    Avenue Coffee and Tea.

    MARK GORMUS/TIMES-DISPATCH

    He speaks three languages, which he perfected while traveling or living in
    37 countries.

    And although he's fluent in Spanish, Russian and his native English, one
    language prevails at his coffee shop in the West End: "fluent delicious."

    Jerry Epstein, the owner of Grove Avenue Coffee and Tea, strives for
    eclecticism and comfort in his shop and in his life.

    Dog-eared children's books and stacks of magazines chaotically crowd the
    windows of his shop, leaving little room for the playfully scrawled, "fluent
    delicious spoken here," a phrase that Epstein penned to indicate that his
    food speaks for itself.

    A clash of blue, mustard-yellow and maroon paint decorates the shop's
    facade; inside, lime- and clementine-colored stripes race down two walls and
    contrast with the purple-blue of the opposing walls. Each blink of the eye
    offers a new image, images that deny the possibility that this is a
    cookie-cutter corporate coffee shop.

    The goal of Grove Avenue Coffee and Tea is to be like "everyone's living
    room on Sunday," said Epstein, balancing a red-and-green espresso cup in his
    hand. The mismatched furniture and a smattering of local art pieces reflect
    Epstein's homegrown, low-key approach.

    A bumper sticker on his truck reads, "Friends don't let friends drink
    Starbucks."

    Epstein's peculiar personality, as his employ PROFILE ees attest, is perhaps
    the greatest contribution to the shop's ambiance.

    "Jerry is eccentric," said Hali Emminger, a 21-year-old Virginia
    Commonwealth University student and one of Epstein's four part-time
    employees, "and he's highly caffeinated. He's in a lot of places at once,
    he's very perky and is a real people person. He makes getting coffee here a
    personal experience."

    The 59-year-old world traveler, a self-described comic, knows most of his
    customers by name. When they greet him with, "Hi, how are you?" Epstein
    answers, "I wish I was."

    He balances his off-beat humor with a commitment to customer satisfaction, a
    goal that began years before he moved from Armenia to the United States in
    1997.

    Epstein, a native of Denver, worked abroad for several decades after earning
    an accounting degree from Austin Peay State University in Clarksville, Tenn.

    A series of jobs in production and quality control in the garment industry
    took him to 15 countries where he learned about the importance of the
    service economy. After several decades in Europe, and with a toddler and
    then-wife, he decided to return to America.

    The family flew to California and then drove cross-country. North Carolina
    and its garment industry was the family's original destination. Epstein, who
    had previously lived in Richmond, decided that the family should settle in
    the city because of its cultural and geographical offerings.

    "Of all the places I've lived, I wanted to be here," Epstein said. "I wanted
    my daughter to grow up in the U.S. and for her to have some of the
    experiences I had."

    His now 8-year-old daughter, Emily, is the center of his life. Epstein
    begins preparing the shop's food at 2:30 a.m.; he arrives home about 2 p.m.
    to meet his daughter at the bus, a commitment he refuses to break.

    Renting the coffee shop, which was then owned by someone else, was a way for
    Epstein to secure a place in the Richmond community and take a break from
    constant, tiresome travel, he said.

    "I had to do something that would tie me here," he said. "After you've
    traveled all of your life, you better get your roots and tie yourself down."

    He knew nothing about running a coffee shop, but he knew everything about
    coffee.

    He had sampled coffee in 37 different countries. The difference was the
    service that accompanied the coffee in the United States, he said.

    "I always heard that the U.S. had a service economy, but I couldn't find the
    service," Epstein said.

    He wants his customers to get a good value at his shop, Epstein said.

    Other coffee shops "give you a vision," he said. "When you bite into me,
    I've given you the product."

    Epstein frequently changes his menu, yet keeps a number of items that are
    particularly popular. The "Eggspresso" is a blend of two eggs and Parmesan,
    provolone, Asiago and Romano cheeses. Epstein steams the eggs and cheese
    using the shop's espresso machine, creating a spongy soufflé that's in
    constant demand, he said.

    Customers also fill up on chai tea and lattes.

    The quality of these products and the laid-back, spunky atmosphere keep Dana
    Lascu coming back to the cozy shop, which features local music on the
    weekends.

    "It's really quite a fun place and on the weekends, it's really quite a
    dynamic place," said Lascu, 45, chairwoman of the University of Richmond
    marketing department. She and her husband, who live in the Fan District,
    frequently bring their two boys to the shop. "It's more of what I would
    expect to find in the Fan than here."

    After traveling around the world for the past few decades, Epstein has
    cultivated an optimistic outlook.

    "I've seen people come out of mud-floored places, wash their bodies at a
    central hose in a village, and then go dancing and smile. In Vietnam, I saw
    a girl on a crutch who was hobbling along with a smile on her face," said
    Epstein, who served in the U.S. military during the Vietnam War. "And I've
    seen people who are colder than hell in some countries offer me a cup of
    tea.

    "If they can be optimistic, so can I."

    Any ideas? Staff writer Melanie Mayhew can be reached at (804) 649-6495 or
    [email protected]

    --Boundary_(ID_huAUudzaV7IQag0tK0RDcw)--
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