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  • Students escape war zone

    Students escape war zone

    The Scotsman - United Kingdom
    May 14, 2005

    Gethin Chamberlain


    THE picnic had been underway for about 30 minutes when the men from
    Muqtadr al Sadr's office appeared in the park near to the university
    in Basra.

    It was 15 March. The students, from a mixture of religions and sects,
    had brought along radios to play music and men and women were
    dancing. Some of the women were wearing jeans. They knew that they
    were being provocative, but they had sought and been granted the
    appropriate permissions for the picnic, and they were determined to
    make their point.

    The two clerics who had turned up with the Sadr group gave the orders
    to break up the party, and the men fell upon the students, beating
    them with sticks and pistols. Girls in jeans were singled out for
    special treatment. About 15 of the students were bundled into cars and
    taken away.

    It was an incident which confirmed the worst fears of those who
    suspected a growing intolerance among religious hardliners in Basra,
    Iraq's second city. But the reaction to what happened that day was
    less predicable.

    There were sit-ins and demonstrations by the students, who appeared to
    have the support of the majority of the population. The men from the
    Office of the Martyr Sadr [Muqtadr's father] found themselves on the
    defensive. But perhaps the oddest by-product of the events of that day
    may be the link they spawned between the students of Basra and
    Scotland.

    Two months on, Hassan Sabah, one of the 45 or so students who was in
    the Basra park is standing in the middle of a Tesco store in St
    Andrews, helping to unload the overburdened trolley on to the conveyor
    belt at the till.

    Strawberries, tiger prawns, asparagus and hollandaise sauce, oatcakes,
    oven chips, tiramisu, pizza, lasagna, bread, tarte au chocolat... They
    are planning to have another picnic, this time with some of the
    students from St Andrews.

    Pat, the woman working the till, is watching the little group. "And
    you're all from Iraq?" she asks them, looking a little bemused. She
    rings through a jar of pickled onions and three haggis, selected by
    Karen McLuskie, who works for the Foreign Office in Basra and whose
    idea the trip was. A former St Andrews student, she decided to take a
    group of students to her old university and to Edinburgh to give them
    an insight into a different way of doing things.

    She landed at RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire at 4:30am on Sunday
    morning with her three members of staff and the seven students she had
    shepherded from Basra university.

    Aghast at what had happened in the park, she put together a programme
    aimed at helping the students create a new student union which could
    stand up better to such intolerance. Staff from the British consulate
    in Basra made discreet inquiries around the university to establish
    who carried most clout, then selected ten people for the trip. At the
    last minute, the three women selected pulled out under pressure from
    their parents, but they pressed ahead with the trip with the remaining
    seven.

    The students were excited. They had never been outside Iraq, never
    seen the sea. When their coach stopped at a service station on the way
    up to St Andrews, they piled out to take pictures of the artificial
    waterfall and ducks. Karen tried to tell them that there were much
    nicer things to see. They thought every house on its own on the way up
    was a castle; Karen told them to wait till they got to Edinburgh. "I
    realised how beautiful it was to them," she said. They reached St
    Andrews at 3pm.

    Later, Hassan and Hazim Abdulatif, the leader of student union, are
    sitting on the rocks next to the sea, taking pictures of each other
    and everything around. "It is very different to Basra, it is all so
    different," Hassan says.

    They are here for a week, to learn as much as possible about the way
    student unions work in UK. When they return tomorrow they want to set
    up a new constitution and a student newspaper. The trip involved a
    series of meetings with student and university leaders before moving
    on to Edinburgh to meet Jack McConnell, the First Minister. Showing
    them round the debating chamber at Holyrood, he recalls how at his
    first student union conference in 1979, a guest speaker from Iraq
    reported on the emergence of a new leader, Saddam Hussein, and some of
    the problems they were already experiencing. The students insist on
    taking his picture.

    Hazim, 26, is the most senior member of the group. He explains that
    they want to gain experience of different systems and to make contact
    with students outside Iraq.

    "We are human beings, curious to know more and more. It is also
    important to consider that Iraq after the collapse of the old regime
    is in a new phase. It is a very critical phase," he says.

    He believes that the trouble they faced stemmed from hardline wahabis,
    a sect which regards all others as heretical.

    "I believe they are responsible for killing many innocent people. They
    claim those people are co-operating with foreigners and that it is
    treason," he says.

    Hassan, 21, explains what happened when they tried to hold their
    picnic in March. They had submitted requests to the university and the
    political parties, he says, and had obtained the required permissions.

    They had been in the park for about 30 minutes, with the police and
    Iraqi security forces in attendance, when a group of men arrived from
    the Office of the Martyr Sadr (OMS), about 50 to 70 strong. With them
    were two clerics.

    "We didn't do anything, we were just singing and dancing," he
    says. "One of the clerics stood in the middle of the park and shouted
    to his followers to kick out all the girls who wore trousers and the
    men who did not have Iraqi haircuts."

    The men who attacked them, he says, were untidy. "They were not
    well-uniformed. They beat us with sticks and pistols and tennis
    rackets. After that they destroyed our radios and one of us wanted to
    attack them but they beat him hard. Some of us wanted to protect the
    girls by cordoning them off. One girl had been surrounded by three men
    and the fourth attacked her. She was a Christian and an Armenian.

    "In accordance with the beliefs of this religion they think it is
    forbidden for women to wear trousers. Most of the girls at the picnic
    wore jeans but I swear that all the women had their own modesty and
    chastity."

    Hassan says that two of the policemen in the park joined in the
    attack, which lasted about 20 minutes.

    About ten of his friends were arrested, he says. "I'm not sure, but my
    friends said they took two girls as well. The girls began to cry."

    He acknowledges that the students knew that there might be
    trouble. "We have to blame both sides, the students and this group,
    because we arranged the picnic in a very sacred month for Shia, the
    first month of the lunar year. The OMS say it is forbidden."

    But he is critical of the thinking behind the attack. "As Muslims we
    believe that Mohammed coexisted with all different groups," he
    says. "History never told us that the followers of Mohammed attacked
    their enemies. The greatest majority of students rejected what
    happened and because of this we had sit-ins and demonstrations. We
    believe that students and people in Basra prefer to have some sort of
    separation between religion and government."

    They fly back to Basra tomorrow to begin work on strengthening their
    own student union. There is no intention to simply replicate the
    Scottish systems, rather to use them as a source of ideas for change.

    "There is no way of comparing the two countries. Everything, the
    nature, the weather, the human beings, the nature of people is
    completely different," says Hazim.

    And though their trip is sponsored by the UK government, there are
    clear differences between themselves and their hosts.

    Hassan thinks it strange that British soldiers did not turn up for 30
    minutes. "I have to blame the British forces as well because they knew
    very well what happened and did nothing. The next time it will be
    worse because they did nothing this time."

    And Hazim remains disturbed by the Abu Graib scandal: "Personally when
    I saw the torture pictures I was very upset."

    He also disagrees with the British government's optimistic projections
    for troop withdrawals: "There is not a big problem with them staying
    at the moment but when there is a strong government they must
    leave. Maybe in ten years?"

    The attack on the students in Basra did little to improve the
    perception of post war Iraq: "We believe that Iraq is considered to be
    the cradle of civilisation, but because of the bad policies of Saddam
    the greatest majority of Iraqi people are seen as uneducated now,"
    says Hassan.

    But both students remain convinced that a corner has been turned. "I
    am optimistic, but not for the short term. I think my son and my
    grandson will have a brilliant future in comparison with my present,"
    Hassan says.
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