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ANKARA: Is This Diyarbakir?

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  • ANKARA: Is This Diyarbakir?

    IS THIS DIYARBAKIR?
    By Mehmet Kamis

    Zaman, Turkey
    April 17 2006

    Bedri Mermutlu has made interesting findings about cities in the
    preface to the book titled, "Seyahatnamelerde Diyarbekir" (Diyarbakir
    in Travel Books).

    These findings are about Diyarbakir in particular. Contemporary
    Diyarbakir is a lost city as if it has been shaken and destroyed by
    the trauma of modernity. It is impossible to understand this city
    just by looking at it from its present state. He drew a perfect
    picture of Diyarbakir in the past describing the vineyards that,
    40 years ago, used to exist around the city. The people who lived in
    that period could never have imagined the vandalism that has turned
    these wonderful vineyards into a modern ugly Baglar district of the
    city. The modern people living in Baglar district today can never
    imagine that there were wonderful vineyards in Baglar district 40 years
    ago, if someone does not tell them about that. Diyarbakir is a unique
    city which existed in its own authentic world, but unfortunately, its
    silhouette becomes indistinct day by day. There was a neatly dressed,
    conversational Diyarbakir gentleman, whose attitude we used to watch
    in admiration and his dignity in trying to know what time it was by
    looking at the chain watch he carried in the pocket of his waistcoat.

    If the things we are saying about Diyarbakir today are not about
    its culture, accumulation or the things it wants to tell modernity,
    then what are they about? Burned tires, stone throwing children,
    red-yellow-green flags and highly politicized people... A cosmopolitan
    city of civilization, where Turks, Armenians, Kurds, Syrians, Keldanis,
    Jews and even Greeks could live altogether in the beginning of the
    20th century, Diyarbakir has now turned into a weird city which cannot
    tolerate the existence of anything different from itself.

    Southeastern Anatolia is between the paws of terrorism and conflict
    again. Ethnic terror in the region, which was almost ceased after
    [terrorist leader] Abdullah Ocalan was captured in 1999, has been on
    the rise since 2004. It seems reforms implemented in the European Union
    (EU) process and politicians taking initiatives for the betterment of
    the region did not please the PKK. The recent positive developments
    in the region falsify the views of the PKK that the people there are
    poor and are cruelly treated. This situation, of course, undermines
    the views of the PKK. In order for the PKK to maintain its power,
    the conditions that keep it alive should remain in the region. For
    this reason, the rights of the people in the region must be taken
    away from them. The PKK wants the villages to be evacuated, people's
    native languages to be banned, the state of emergency to continue and
    all the people in the region to be treated as "terrorists." Kurdish
    intellectual Umit Firat said in his remarks published in Radikal daily:
    "The PKK cannot exist in an EU member country. Trying to solve the
    Kurdish problem like the problems solved in the EU is something that
    the "hawks" on both sides do not want."

    The old Diyarbakir ought to rid itself of politicization in a bid to
    help the old orient emerge. That profound mysticism can only surface
    in this way. Thousands of years of accumulation of knowledge can
    direct the modern world in many directions. What great stories
    are there about Ahlat, Ercis, Mardin, Hasankeyf, Mem u Zin and
    Ishakpasha. The re-emergence of those stories necessitates an end to
    over-politicization and chauvinistic nationalism. This end must come
    regardless of the warlords.

    Then it will be understood that we have many things to offer to the
    whole world. These wise lands will have a better chance to express
    the accumulation of experience over the human spirit and the lifelong
    spiritual journey. The excellent and awe-inspiring sunrise over the
    Suphan Mountain and centuries of friendship in Adilcevaz will all be
    open to observation.

    The whole region is covered in the dust of the ashes left over from
    the fire caused by terrorism here. Once cleared, we will, perhaps,
    discover that Diyarbakir gentleman, who is serious, conversational
    and wearing a chain watch...
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