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The turbulent march of history past Beirut woman's window

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  • The turbulent march of history past Beirut woman's window

    The turbulent march of history past Beirut woman's window

    Agence France Presse -- English
    July 27, 2006 Thursday 6:48 AM GMT

    By Haro Chakmakjian

    >From the evacuation of Yasser Arafat in 1982 to the current foreign
    exodus, Makrouhie Yerganian has seen the troubled history of Lebanon
    unscroll in front of her eyes at her vantage point in front of Beirut
    port.

    Just last week, two truck drivers having coffee were killed when
    their parked and apparently empty vehicles were blown apart in an
    Israeli air strike on the edge of the port, just 50 metres (yards)
    away from her modest home in a three-storey apartment block.

    "It was a very strange noise that rattled our nerves. We thought we
    had heard all sorts of explosions but this was something new even for
    us," says the Lebanese Armenian schoolteacher who has lived in the
    Mar Mikhael area for more than half a century.

    Her 85-year-old mother was just about to water the flowers on the
    window ledge, until Yerganian changed her mind. Many of the windows
    in her building were shattered, but the women escaped unharmed from
    Israel's latest salvo in its war on Hezbollah.

    "I believe it is written on your forehead. If it is written, you can
    die wherever you are. But that day, the Lord protected us," says the
    60-year-old woman from her sitting room where sheets cover the
    furniture, as the shutters slam from the sea breeze.

    A vivid memory still stencilled into her head came in 1976 when
    militiamen massacred Shiites, Druze and Palestinian refugees in the
    nearby Karantina camp, now closed.

    "A boy whose voice had not even broken kept pleading: 'Don't kill
    me'. They dragged him off to the corner of the street and shot him,"
    she says. "I can still hear his voice in my head, begging for his
    life, as they dragged him off."

    Two years later, in another of the multiple wars within a war which
    devastated Lebanon between 1975 and 1990, the Phalange, a Christian
    militia, battled Syrian forces.

    "The Syrians were parked right in front of our windows, and the
    Phalange behind. They started fighting and we were caught bang in the
    middle," she says.

    During the brief deployment of the Multinational Forces sent to
    oversee the Palestinian evacuation after Israel's invasion and
    supposedly to protect the refugees, they had new neighbours in the
    shape of American, French and Italian troops.

    "They were all clean, except the Israelis. The Americans and the
    others used metal shacks and they would burn their waste," she says.

    "We would be hanging the washing and they (Israeli troops) would be
    doing their dirty business or relieving themselves in full public
    view. We had to move away for a while," says a grimacing Yerganian.

    "The Italians were friendly and we even learnt a few words of
    Italian. The Americans and the French would hand out chocolates to
    the neighbourhood kids," she says. "People would come from far to see
    them from our house. We had a lot of guests in those days."

    But things went sour yet again. President-elect Bashir Gemayel was
    assassinated and "the radios tried to reassure the people by saying
    he had survived the bomb blast", Makrouhie recalls.

    "At midnight, we heard the marching of boots. We looked out of the
    window and saw the Jewish soldiers heading toward west Beirut", on
    the eve of the massacres in the Palestinian refugee camps of Sabra
    and Shatila by Phalangist militiamen.

    Before the massacres, French soldiers had been posted with huge guns
    on the rooftops, including Yerganian's, to protect the evacuation of
    late Palestinian leader Arafat and his PLO fighters in 1982.

    In 1984, west Beirut fell to Muslim militias and the US and European
    troops withdrew through the port after their barracks were blown up
    by suicide bombers at a cost of some 300 lives.

    The Lebanese army posted heavy artillery outside the house to bombard
    the mostly Muslim western sector, opening up with 55-mm rounds that
    rocked the building to its very foundations.

    "I was going mad, with pillows on each ear to muffle the horrific
    noise. I was going to go out and tell them to stop, please, please.

    My mother told me: 'Don't worry, this will pass too'," says
    Yerganian.

    Despite everything, "I love Lebanon. I was born here and this is my
    country. Anything that happens to our poor Lebanon, it breaks our
    heart.

    "We were so happy seeing the new bridges and the revival of the
    downtown thanks to Hariri after the civil war, but they won't allow
    us to have any joy," she says, referring to the 2005 murder of former
    premier and architect of Lebanon's revival, Rafiq Hariri.

    While the tens of thousands of foreigners were fleeing the Israeli
    air strikes across from her window, "at least we had hopes for a
    little calm in our area. But after the last US evacuations (on
    Wednesday), we fear the worst for Lebanon", she says.
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