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  • Yummy goodies in Little Armenian bakery

    Watertown TAB & Press, MA
    June 23 2006

    Yummy goodies in Little Armenian bakery

    By Katie McDonough/ Correspondent
    Friday, June 23, 2006 - Updated: 10:54 AM EST

    In most respects, winding Mount Auburn Street is a world away from
    the majestic snowcapped mountains of Armenia. However, those familiar
    with the area know that Watertown boasts a large Armenian population,
    with a cultural and commercial center in and around Coolidge Square.

    The ample variety of Middle Eastern bakeries, restaurants and shops
    there form a captivating representation of that part of the world.

    In the busy patchwork of the area some call "Little Armenia," one
    business stands out from its competition. Massis Bakery and Specialty
    Food Store has been in town longer than many Watertown residents.

    The Ourfalian family opened the bakery in 1977 after coming to America
    from Beirut, Lebanon. Having already been in the bakery business in
    Beirut for a number of years, the family had plenty of experience
    to apply to their new venture. Of course, starting fresh in a new
    country brings its own challenges, and it took a few years for the
    business to blossom.

    The family~Rs two sons, Sarkis and Missak, were of high school age at
    the time the bakery opened. The brothers helped their parents with the
    business during high school and college, and even lent a hand through
    the years when they pursued their own careers (Sarkis worked as an
    engineer and Missak as an accountant). Now the roles are reversed:
    The brothers run all parts of the business with only occasional help
    from their parents.

    In its almost 30 years in Watertown, Massis Bakery has changed
    considerably. Though it began as a small, predominantly Armenian bakery
    and grocery store, the business has expanded to overtake neighboring
    sites and include a wide array of items for sale.

    "As we grew and changed our product line, the store became more than
    just Armenian," Sarkis Ourfalian said.

    The name Massis, which refers to a mountain in Armenia, now serves more
    as a reminder of the bakery~Rs origins than an accurate description
    of its products. In addition to the traditional Middle Eastern items,
    they currently import products such as olive oil and chocolate from
    various countries such as Greece and Italy.

    One of the first things you notice when you enter Massis Bakery is
    the sheer volume of products inside. From the bakery counter on the
    far right to the olive bar in the back left corner, there~Rs a little
    bit of everything.

    "If you come to our store and look up and down the aisles, you might
    think you~Rre in Europe," Ourfalian said. "At the same time you might
    be in Greece or Lebanon or other places in the world."

    Like many businesses, Massis Bakery has had to make certain adjustments
    over the years to keep up with a constantly evolving clientele. Even
    their most enduring products, such as homemade Armenian pizza called
    lahmejune, have undergone some modification.

    "The traditionallahmejune is made with lamb or beef, but we make
    it with chicken, or we make it vegetarian," Ourfalian said. "As the
    clientele has changed, we~Rve accommodated."

    The family has taken a similar approach with many of their bakery
    items, including various kinds of cookies and pastries made fresh each
    day. The traditional cookies, most of which include some combination of
    dates, figs and sesame seeds, are available in a number of adaptations.

    In addition to this keen ability to adapt to customers~R changing
    tastes, another reason for the store~Rs success is the recent
    popularity of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean foods. "Some of our
    specialties, liketabouleh andhomus (or hummus), were not as well
    known to people in the past," Ourfalian said.

    As such foods came into the mainstream in recent years, larger
    supermarket chains began carrying these products. It~Rs reasonable
    to assume that this fact would hurt small, independent stores such
    as Massis Bakery, but Ourfalian has a different perspective. "People
    taste the foods in the supermarket, and then they taste ours. Right
    away, they can tell there~Rs a big difference," Ourfalian said. "In
    that way, supermarkets have improved our business."

    Ourfalian is also quick to point out that the foods are not only
    tasty but very nutritious as well. The family uses mostly fresh,
    natural ingredients, such as fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds and
    spices, in everything they make. This aspect appeals to a number of
    demographics, from dieters and health food fiends to conscientious
    parents and those with restrictive medical conditions. With a booming
    business and growing clientele, it~Rs clear that such meticulous
    measures are appreciated.

    When you~Rre inside the bakery, it~Rs impossible not to be taken in
    by all the colors and aromas around you; each aisle has something new
    and intriguing you may not have heard of or tried before. One of the
    most interesting things to see in the bakery, though, is not one of
    the imported products or homemade bakery items for sale. Hanging on the
    wall to right of the door as you enter are two framed photographs. The
    top photo, taken in 1977, shows the two young brothers, Sarkis and
    Missak, with their parents behind the bakery counter. The photo
    below shows the same four faces beaming out from behind the same
    counter 26 years later. Though decades have passed and the business
    has transformed again and again, the family~Rs pride in and passion
    for their work will continue well into the future.

    What smells so good?

    Massis Bakery is at 569 Mount Auburn St., and it~Rs open Monday
    through Saturday from 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Visit massisbakery.com for more
    information.
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