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Pictures Worth A Thousand Words

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  • Pictures Worth A Thousand Words

    PICTURES WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS
    By Mick Oxley, The Journal

    THE JOURNAL (Newcastle, UK)
    June 27, 2006 Tuesday
    Edition 1

    Armenia still bears the scars of a terrible earthquake and the Soviet
    withdrawal. But artist Mick Oxley found redeeming features on a
    recent trip.

    Mick Oxley, an artist from Craster, recently returned from Armenia
    where he was working at the Veratsnund Art School in the Italian
    Village in Spitak.

    In 1988, Armenia was devastated by an earthquake which killed more
    than 45,000 people and left 500,000 homeless. Spitak, home to 25,000,
    was all but levelled.

    Some countries supplied temporary accommodation and much of it is
    still in use - hence Italian Village.

    Mick's trip was organised by Italian charity Family Care, which is
    supported by churches in the Alnwick area. Recently they raised £1,700
    to buy materials for the art school and to fly Mick out to teach and
    inspire the people who use the place.

    A wheelchair-user, Mick found attitudes to disabled people in Armenia
    less sympathetic than in Britain.

    These are extracts from the diary he kept during the trip

    :May 6

    We arrived on bumpy Tarmac at Yerevan at 11.45pm. As I started to
    re-assemble my wheelchair, I was surrounded by uniformed guards. "We
    need your passport and dollars for a visa." Welcome to Armenia!

    The guards were dressed in drab Soviet-style uniforms with enormous
    peaked caps. They kept saying: "You need ambulance!"

    I replied: "I don't need an ambulance" and promptly wheeled off to find
    myself at a flight of 20 stairs. I hopped out of the chair and scuttled
    down the steps on my backside. By now, the reception committee had
    grown to about 15, gawping at this nutter bouncing down the staircase.

    We piled our cases into two cars and made the 15-minute journey to
    our lodgings in central Yerevan.

    May 7

    After breakfast, we journeyed by car to Italian Village Spitak,
    the Lada Niva packed with cases and wheelchair.

    Last night on the plane, a steward asked: "Where are you getting off,
    Yerevan or Tashkent?"

    "Yerevan," I replied.

    "On holiday?"

    "A working holiday," said I.

    "Are you collecting scrap metal then?" he said in jest.

    The significance of his remark hit home on the journey. Piles
    of rusty metal lay by the road, old cars and contorted pieces of
    machinery. Buildings which were being constructed by the Russians
    are as they were in 1991 when they left. The road was deeply potholed
    and vehicles wove in and out, often at high speed.

    Travelling over the high ground to Spitak, we passed ugly, Soviet-built
    housing blocks, stranded from the city. The hardness of life up here
    screamed out at you.

    In total contrast was the majestic beauty of the countryside: soaring,
    snow-capped peaks, verdant valleys, eagles gliding on the thermals.

    Another massive plus is the warmth of the people, especially out of
    the capital. There a wheelchair invites trance-like stares.

    We went to Arsen and Arusiak's house in Uzbekistan Village to celebrate
    their son's birthday.

    May 8

    I headed for the Veratsnund Art School at 9am. With two groups coming
    every afternoon for the next six days, I felt acutely in need of
    preparation. By 6pm, I had tried five styles of painting with the
    materials at hand, with differing results. At least I had something
    to show the students.

    May 9

    In the art school by nine.

    After lunch, the first of two groups arrived. Not speaking Armenian,
    I couldn't really fire them up. Maybe the students, aged six to 14,
    were fazed by the odd-looking bloke in a wheelchair who used sign
    language. Later, Arsen called round. Like me, Arsen is in a wheelchair,
    having broken his back in the earthquake. Also like me, he is trying
    to establish himself as an artist. Arsen rarely leaves his immediate
    environment, especially in a wheelchair. The terrain makes life hard
    and there are stares and comments from some locals.

    May 10

    I painted a landscape, the road outside, weaving its way through the
    mountains. Arsen painted a view of a neighbouring snow-capped mountain
    in a more rapid style which was also new to him.

    After lunch, the same children reappeared. Happier with the subject
    and more comfortable with the teacher, they produced some pleasing
    work in pastel.

    I visited the orphanage. The kids range from babies to young adults
    and have a range of mental and physical disabilities.

    Many of the children are not orphans; they have been handed over to
    the nuns because they are disabled.

    May 12

    Invited to the house of Juliette, her son Hovannes and daughter Hamest.

    Every time we get in a car it causes comment when I put a seatbelt
    on. Having the front seat (for ease of transfer from wheelchair),
    it is always noted. Seatbelt wearing is not just optional but almost
    frowned upon, taken as a slight against the driver.

    With their house destroyed by the earthquake, their home has been
    two steel shipping containers bolted together. With the rusting metal
    sides, it is very dark and cramped. On the wall is a poignant photo
    of Juliette's other daughter, who died in the earthquake. Just before
    our visit, the family received their compensation for the loss of
    their house - £15.

    May 14

    The day started with the sound of a cuckoo! We headed to Spitak to
    attend Sunday Mass at the new Armenian Apostolic church. In many ways
    it was similar to a Roman Catholic Mass; the layout inside was similar,
    the incense, the organ and the choir.

    Afterwards, we headed up to Venadzor. It was previously a heavily
    industrialised town. Now it looks fairly desolate.

    The people remain, as do the factories. Sadly, though, for mile after
    mile we passed ghost factories.

    We journeyed back to Yerevan to view the venue for the exhibition,
    the Artbridge in Abovian Street. Set in a pleasant avenue, the gallery
    had a good ambience, with tasteful decor and cool music. The only
    drawback again was access - two steps up and two down to get in and
    inaccessible toilets.

    May 15

    Some of the children's work is progressing well.

    One girl, Piruz, was so cheerful and helpful, constantly translating
    for me. Another student, Susan, consistently achieved pleasing
    results. Arsen, too, was well into his stride, working happily in his
    new-found style. Previously, he had concentrated on religious icons
    and very traditional still-lifes.

    May 16

    I went into the art school early and started on a mountain view.

    After 30 minutes, I was visited by three children from the orphanage,
    Elizabeth, Igneas and Rosa. All were keen to paint. Within minutes
    my picture was transformed into a more abstract representation! All
    three left, pleased to have put me right!

    We had arranged transport from Spitak to Yerevan for the exhibition
    and many of the children were keen to attend with their parents.

    May 17

    I worked until 2.30pm, ringing and stringing 25 canvases and seven
    framed pictures.

    All but the framed work had been completed during our six working
    days together. There were nine canvases from the children and eight
    apiece from Arsen and me.

    May 18

    We arrived at the Gallery by 5pm and met Arsen and his family. It was
    a big event for Arsen to venture out in his wheelchair after years of
    ridicule and rude stares. Soon after, the bus from Spitak arrived;
    the looks of wonderment on the children's faces as they entered the
    gallery and saw their work made everything so worthwhile. The Mayor
    of Spitak made a speech, Arsen and I sold a canvas each and were
    interviewed by Armenian TV.

    May 19

    We said our farewells. Arsen and his family had become good friends.

    Would I visit again?

    I would like to - if someone could help me manoeuvre the wheelchair
    over the rough ground and monstrously high kerbstones.

    May 20

    After breakfast, I sauntered around the city centre. At one point,
    I got stranded in the middle of the road while on a crossing with a
    green man flashing. A marshrutka (taxicab) stopped and as I turned
    to thank him, he was sitting shaking his fists at me!

    May 21

    Headed for Zvartnots airport. Yerevan was serene at that time of
    morning.

    The plane arrived late from Tashkent but we boarded without hassle -
    only to meet some women from Seahouses.

    PS

    This was a trip I won't forget. I feel we met our aims. We introduced
    Arsen and the students to new ways of working. We also left a legacy
    in terms of materials. I hope being there in a wheelchair might
    have encouraged Arsen and others to venture out. If by wheeling
    around Yerevan I changed one person's view of the disabled, I would
    be satisfied.

    j Mick is participating in The Art Tour. See his work at the Village
    Hall, Whin Hill, Craster, every Sunday in July from 11am to 5pm. Tel.

    --Boundary_(ID_8ghcJ8dgveCmyzvFg8z7zA)--
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