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Eateries slathering on the style: Zov's Bistro

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  • Eateries slathering on the style: Zov's Bistro

    Orange County Register, CA
    March 10 2006

    Eateries slathering on the style

    Zov's Bistro in Tustin caps a $2 million makeover this Sunday, and
    other established restaurants are also responding to trendy new
    competitors.

    By NANCY LUNA
    The Orange County Register

    As one of Orange County's beloved chefs, Zov Karamardian has shared
    saucepans with Emeril Lagasse and Julia Child. Her decadent pastries
    are considered among the best in the nation.

    And she's currently penning a second book on breakfast and brunch
    recipes.

    Yet, despite her longtime success, the chef-proprietor of Zov's
    Bistro in Tustin continues to reinvent her brand as she and other
    long-standing eateries face more swanky restaurants planting roots in
    the county. Her latest counterattack involves a $2 million remodel of
    her 19-year-old bistro, which is celebrating a grand reopening
    Sunday.

    Karamardian will also open a second Zov's Bistro next year to
    introduce her famous Middle Eastern- and European-influenced dishes
    to a new batch of foodies.

    "It's very competitive now. And you have to be on top of your game,"
    Karamardian said of the bistro's expansion and makeover. "You have to
    keep the buzz going."

    Other prominent eateries are feeling the pressure to spruce up as
    well. Antonello Ristorante in Santa Ana and the White House in
    Anaheim are adding wine lockers, private dining and banquet rooms,
    sound systems and ornate furnishings to keep diners from straying.

    "People like to have a place where the experience won't disappoint.
    The food is no longer enough," said Karamardian, 61.

    The bistro's overhaul includes adding a "Z" (for Zov's) cocktail bar,
    a private banquet room wired for corporate presentations and a stone
    outdoor fireplace.

    A $400,000 patio improvement features a perma-nent, classier-looking
    enclosure to replace the white party tent the bistro used for years.

    The final touches: Sliding glass doors and windows were installed
    last week in the patio, the bistro's main seating area. Three months
    ago, Karamardian started serving dinner on Monday nights, normally
    her only night of rest.

    "You can't give guests an opportunity to find a new favorite," she
    said.

    And, in a nod to newer establishments that offer nightly
    entertainment such as piano bars, Karamardian also hired a guitarist
    to serenade diners on Monday nights.

    Rich Hollander, a restaurant consultant at Texas-based Buxton, said
    mainstay establishments need to invest more money in makeovers
    because trendier eateries are raising the stakes - from elegant local
    steakhouses such as Mastro's and Fleming's to David Wilhelm's flashy
    French-inspired bistros.

    "If I'm a high-end customer, I'm going to the new guy to impress
    someone," said Hollander. "But, then, I'm going to go back to my
    local place, and if it is improved, I'll continue to go back."

    But if older establishments fall behind the eight ball, proprietors
    may face empty tables, he said.

    At Zov's, for example, diners began asking for cocktails, but the
    bistro served only wine and beer.

    "A lot of people weren't coming here because we didn't have hard
    liquor," Karamardian said.

    She quickly took care of that by building a granite-topped bar last
    year. With lunch martinis being some of the most popular orders, the
    bar addition has already paid for itself and spawned other upgrades:
    replacing wrought-iron chairs with European woven chairs at $200
    apiece and adding ceiling fans with stylish blades that resemble palm
    leaves.

    Sunday's party, which benefits two local charities, caps the bistro's
    makeover.

    It's all triggered Karamardian to set her sights on opening a second
    restaurant in Orange County to introduce her signature dishes: lentil
    soup, Moroccan salmon and fruit tarts made with Tahitian vanilla
    cream.

    The added exposure should sustain long-term growth for Zov's, where
    sales increase about 8 percent a year, said her son, Armen, the
    bistro's general manager.

    "We don't rest on our laurels," Armen said. "There's so many
    restaurants in Orange County. We feel the time has come where you
    can't expect the guest to find you. We have to find them."

    Last year about 37 percent of fine-dining establishments were
    expected to spend a larger proportion of their budgets on remodeling,
    according the National Restaurant Association.

    On average, table-service restaurants spend about $2.9million on
    remodels, association spokeswoman Annika Stensson said.

    In addition, fine-dining establishments often spend more money on
    "atmospheric details" such as original art, unusual light fixtures,
    and solid wood tables and chairs to get the right ambiance, the trade
    group said.

    That would be true for Antonello Ristorante and the White House.

    A fixture at South Coast Plaza Village since it opened in 1979,
    Antonello recently converted an upstairs storage room into a
    European-themed private room called the Levendi Room.

    The room, sponsored by a Napa Valley winery by the same name, seats
    up to 14 and is flanked by climate-controlled mahogany wine lockers,
    hardwood furnishings, antique light fixtures, Italian art and stone
    walls.

    Wine lockers, a luxurious "at home" touch where frequent diners stash
    their personal wine collections, cost up to $1,500 to $6,000 to rent.
    The fee is based on the minimum requirement to buy two cases from the
    restaurant's wine list, said general manager Thad Foret.

    In the restaurant's main dining room, antique-replica chandeliers,
    costing $500 each, were recently installed. Foret is also having gray
    walls painted over with a cozier, buttery yellow. New chairs are also
    on the way.

    The centerpiece of a $200,000 remodel at the White House in Anaheim
    is the Caterina Ballroom, an enclosed outdoor gazebo that can support
    private parties of up to 150 people.

    Owner Bruno Serrato said the private ballroom, which opened in
    November, has already boosted sales by 30 percent. The restaurant
    also primped inside by replacing aging chairs and tables and
    installing crystal chandeliers.

    While eateries need to redecorate often, Foret said changes must be
    subtle. He said he has no intention of turning his traditional
    Italian bistro into a haven of marble and granite furnishings -
    common decorative details found at newer competitors.

    "They are real glitzy and beautiful, and I don't want to knock that,"
    he said. "What we try to have is old-world charm. We're not straying
    from what's made us successful."

    Zov's Bistro

    Executive chef: Zov Karamardian


    History: Karamardian emigrated to the U.S. at age 15 after living
    with her Armenian family in various regions of the Middle East.

    Karamardian started the bistro in 1987 as an outlet for her catering
    business, which she ran out of her Irvine home. Without a "dime to
    her name," Karamardian gleaned $200,000 in seed money from relatives
    to start Zov's Bistro. Later she opened a bakery and cafe behind the
    bistro as demand peaked for takeout of her tarts and pastries.


    Now: Karamardian is considered one of the county's top chefs, having
    earned many culinary awards over the years. She plans to open a
    second bistro next year in the county. On Sunday, Zov's will
    celebrate a $2 million makeover with a fundraiser benefiting the
    Joyful Child Foundation and Hoag Women's Health Services.


    Event: The gala is from 4 to 7 p.m. Tickets are $100. For more
    information, call (714) 838-8855 or (562) 491-1000.

    Location: 17440 E. 17 St., Tustin.

    Web site: www.zovs.com
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