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Corned beef keeps Levonians in the 'green'

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  • Corned beef keeps Levonians in the 'green'

    Corned beef keeps Levonians in the 'green'
    By: Kathryn Caggianelli, The Record 03/17/2006

    Troy Record, NY
    March 17 2006

    TROY - In early January, the curing process begins. By St. Patrick's
    Day, more than one million pounds of beef brisket will have been
    shipped to consumers throughout the Northeast.

    Corned beef is a family tradition at Levonian Brothers. The third
    generation family-owned business at 27 River St. has been around
    since 1947. Corned beef is their specialty.

    "St. Patrick's Day is our Christmas," President Rob Nazarian said.

    Fifty to 60 percent of Levonian's total corned beef sales for the year
    are made by St. Patrick's Day. That translates into innumerable three-
    to four-pound uncooked briskets, ranging in price from $10 to $20,
    depending on the grade and cut of beef. They're sold to area Price
    Chopper and Hannaford stores, local independent markets and Big Y
    grocery stores throughout New England. Prepared corned beef roasts
    are sold to a number of delis, Nazarian said.

    "We sell an Angus beef version to Price Chopper. It's the
    highest quality you can get and will run between $15 to $20 for a
    three-to-four-pound brisket," he said.

    Other products prepared by Levonian Brothers include roast beef,
    pastrami, hot dogs and smoked ham. The company buys meat and poultry
    for distribution from midwest manufacturers that include National Beef,
    Cargill and Tyson.

    In the early 1970s the company expanded its distribution services and
    started producing meat products. The move was a marketing strategy
    that paid off, Nazarian said.

    "We did it to create our own brand. We became more than just the
    middle man," Nazarian said.

    Though he wasn't willing to disclose how profitable the business is,
    or how expansion affected the profit margin, Nazarian did admit that
    the business is thriving.

    So why specialize in corned beef? Doing so required little in terms
    of start-up costs. All that was needed was a packaging machine and
    injector. The curing solution is a relatively inexpensive mixture of
    water, salt and seasonings. All-beef rounds are used, he said.

    Corned beef certainly wasn't a tradition for the Armenian family before
    that time. For that matter, corned beef isn't even a true Irish dish,
    Nazarian said.

    "It's a tradition here in the states. In the old days people had
    meat and vegetables sitting in cure in their basements. In the spring
    they'd clean out their basements and cook up everything that was left
    over from the fall harvest," he said.

    The meal later somehow became associated with St. Patrick's Day,
    Nazarian said.

    There are some who might not agree with his theory, however.

    "According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, originally corned
    beef and cabbage was a traditional dish served for Easter Sunday
    dinner in rural Ireland. The beef, because there was no refrigeration
    at the time, was salted or brined during the winter to preserve it.

    It was then eaten after the long, meatless Lenten fast," write chefs
    Stephen Block and Stephen Holloway, authors of "The History and Irish
    Tradition of Corned Beef," for The Kitchen Project, an online resource
    found at www.kitchenproject.com.

    The same article questions the validity of that claim, however,
    because beef was said to be a delicacy that only the rich could afford.

    Regardless of its origins, corned beef remains a top seller for
    Levonian Brothers.

    When brothers Elia Y. and Levon Y. Levonian, and their nephews Elia
    M. and Levon M. Levonian, started the distribution business more than
    five decades ago when they targeted small, independent markets in
    the area. Today the company boasts a staff of 75 and a two-building
    facility of approximately 60,000 square feet. Two other nephews,
    Gregory L. Nazarian and Ralph Darian worked for their uncles during
    college vacations and eventually went on to become managing directors
    in 1957 and corporate officers in the 1970s, according to Nazarian.

    After graduating from Siena College in 1990 Rob Nazarian, Gregory's
    son, came on board. He went on to become president in 1997.

    Rob's two sisters had no interest in running the business so the job
    seemed like the logical path for him to follow, he said.

    "We'd like to keep it in the family for years to come but I don't
    have any children yet," Nazarian said.
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