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Beirut's real-life version of 'The Yacoubian Building'

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  • Beirut's real-life version of 'The Yacoubian Building'

    Daily Star - Lebanon
    Nov 11 2006


    Beirut's real-life version of 'The Yacoubian Building'

    By John Ehab
    Special to The Daily Star
    Saturday, November 11, 2006



    BEIRUT: Longtime residents of Beirut could be forgiven for reacting
    to the popularity of "The Yacoubian Building" - the bestselling novel
    written by Alaa al-Aswany and the blockbuster film adaptation
    directed by Marwan Hamed - with some confusion. Aswany's book and
    Hamed's movie concern the iconic status of a 70-year-old neoclassical
    building on Talaat Harb Street in Downtown Cairo. Erected by
    Armenian-Egyptian businessman Nichan Yacoubian in the 1930s, the
    once-grand building fell on harder and harder times in the 1960s,
    when it was left in the charge of numerous superintendends after a
    wave of nationalizations under then-President Gamal Abdel Nasser. In
    "The Yacoubian Building," the structure is the setting for an
    unfolding drama narrating Egypt's modern sociopolitical history.

    There is, however, another Yacoubian Building, equally storied and
    symbolic, spread across two blocs and located in the Caracas
    neighborhood of Ras Beirut. Like it's namesake in Cairo, Beirut's
    Yacoubian has been witness to turbulent times.

    At the time Cairo's Yacoubian was being built, a vacant plot of land
    populated primarily by some fruits, cacti and vegetable bushes was
    sold to an Armenian-Lebanese man named Yacoub Yacoubian. A fruit
    seller named Umm Mahmoud once lived on those lands and remembers the
    place before the huge buildings went up.

    "We used to live on this land, tending the garden for the Mezhers,"
    recalls Mahmoud. "After the Mezhers sold the land ... we moved."

    Not long after, Mahmoud adds, foundations were laid for an enormous
    10-story, double-bloc building with 140 flats. Unlike the colonial
    style of Cairo's Yacoubian, Beirut's counterpart came shaped like a
    U-turn, copping the style of Le Corbusier.

    Samia al-Assi moved into the Yacoubian in 1974 and never left. In the
    days before Lebanon's 1975-1990 Civil War, Assi recalls, the building
    was famous for the artists who lived there. Singer Faiza Ahmad and
    comedian Abdel-Salam al-Nabulsi were among the celebrity residents.
    Back in the day, recalls Elie Qartabawi, who resides in the Yacoubian
    still and has lived there longer than anyone else, "it was the
    biggest, most famous, most expensive building in Lebanon."

    The Yacoubian used to boast a famous nightclub - the Venus - situated
    one floor below ground. A legend in its time, the Venus welcomed
    Cabinet ministers, MPs and army commanders alike. It was also a
    favored destination for wealthy tourists from the Gulf. Shortly after
    the Civil War broke out, the Venus closed its doors.
    http://www.dailystar.com.lb

    In the years that followed, the internally displaced sought shelter
    in the building. Among them was Mohammad Sweidan, otherwise known as
    Abu Ali. During the war he became the Yacoubian's natour, or
    concierge.

    "I [saw] terrifying days during that war, and often received death
    threats," sighs Abu Ali.

    All the local militias passed through the Yacoubian, and therefore
    past his post.

    Abu Ali says he was twice kidnapped by militiamen who were inquiring
    after arms. With the Israeli invasion in 1982, he adds, an officer
    pulled up to the building and called on all inside to surrender their
    weapons.

    Around 60 pistols came tumbling down into the courtyard, says Abu
    Ali, who was ordered to collect them for the officer. The next day he
    found one pistol left behind. He sold it to a banker for LL500.

    "Like anything else in Lebanon," says Qartabawi, "the Yacoubian
    declined during the war. One day a lady asked me: 'Where is the
    Yacoubian refugee camp?'"

    These days, the Yacoubian is known as the home of Abu Elie, the bar
    that occupies the lower back corner of the building.

    "The people who come here are mostly intellectuals, mostly leftist
    and always progressive," says Nina Jamal, a customer.

    Posters of Che Guevara dominate the walls, along with pictures of
    Marx, Lenin, Nasser, Gandhi, Nelson Mandela, Samir Kassir and George
    Hawi.

    Abu Elie himself once lived in the Yacoubian and ran a sandwich shop
    in the neighborhood. In the early 1990s, he moved back to Bourj
    Hammoud and opened the bar.

    Still, confusion abounds. Since the "The Yacoubian Building" has been
    screening in Beirut's movie theaters, Assi says, "many people ask me
    if they shot the film here."

    http://www.dailystar.com.lb/article.a sp?edition_id=1&categ_id=1&article_id=7682 3
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