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  • Cairo: France has her say

    France has her say

    Al-Ahram Weekly, Egypt
    Sept 7 2006

    Despite the British occupation, French culture was the number one
    foreign culture among Egyptians. Professor Yunan Labib Rizk explains
    that even though the occupiers succeeded in introducing English to a
    great number of schools, France was king

    Abdel-Rahman El-Gabarti, the grandfather of Egyptian historians, was
    contemporary to the French military expedition and wrote two books
    about it. In the first he recorded all that he witnessed, and it came
    out in four volumes under the title Ajaaib Al-Athar fi Al-Tarajim
    Wal-Akhbar [the wonders of the vestiges of biographies and events].

    This book was objective within the limits of the religious culture
    that predominated in that age.

    Rifaa El-Tahtawi
    ------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------

    His second book was released in one volume and was produced under
    request by the first Ottoman pasha who arrived at the citadel
    following the departure of the French. It consisted of excerpts from
    the first book that defamed the occupiers who had only recently
    evacuated the country and was titled Mathhar Al-Taqdis bi- Zawal
    Dawlat Al-Faransis [the phenomenon of sanctifying the removal of the
    French state].

    The great El-Gabarti rejected in his second book much of what he had
    been impressed with in the first. With regard to culture in
    particular, following his visit to the library the military
    expedition had established, he had expressed his bedazzlement with
    its order. Likewise, upon his visit to the scientific institute the
    military expedition had established, he had been awed by the chemical
    experiments its scientists were conducting. He even wrote in
    acknowledgment, "these matters are not comprehended by minds of our
    likes."

    This is perhaps what led some Francophone Egyptians to coin the
    metaphorical phrase stating that "Napoleon came with cannons and a
    printing press, and he returned to his country with the cannons but
    left the printing press." This is also perhaps what led Sheikh Hassan
    El-Attar, El-Gabarti's teacher who had greater opportunity to mix
    with the French, to advise his student Rifaa El-Tahtawi, when he was
    sent by Mohamed Ali Pasha with the first academic mission to France
    in 1826, to record all the details of life he would witness among
    people there. El-Tahtawi did this meticulously, and his famed book
    Takhlis Al-Abriz fi Talkhis Bariz [extrication of pure gold in an
    outline of Paris]. This book was the first Egyptian overview of a
    European society.

    The saying that Napoleon left behind the printing press was not
    accurate in actuality, however, for the men of the military
    expedition in fact took their two presses with them when they left
    the country. Yet it was true metaphorically, for French culture
    remained the number one foreign culture among Egyptians until after
    WWII (1945). It dominated its English counterpart despite the British
    occupation of the country and the occupiers' efforts and policies. At
    the head of these efforts was the English consultant to the Ministry
    of Education, Douglas Dunlop, who sought to Anglicise education.

    These efforts ended in failure, however, and although the occupiers
    succeeded in their aim of introducing English to a great number of
    schools, they failed in Anglicising education and culture. The spread
    of the occupiers' language was limited to civil servants, and among
    other Egyptian intellectuals, French remained lord.

    This can be traced to a number of reasons. Most of the Egyptian
    missions dispatched during the reign of the remarkable ruler Mohamed
    Ali Pasha were sent to France. Statistics concerning the members of
    eight missions sent during this period show that 372 were sent to
    Paris, including a number of leading intellectuals such as Rifaa
    El-Tahtawi and Ali Mubarak, while the number of those sent to England
    was 47, sent to learn advanced industries. The second mission sent to
    England, consisting of 21 members, was dispatched to learn the art of
    carpentry. Austria only received seven delegates. In other words, the
    primary bloc of Egyptian delegates to Europe during this Pasha's era
    headed to France, to the degree that the Egyptian government set up
    special housing for them that was supervised by one of the academics
    of the French expedition.

    Mohamed Ali entrusted Frenchmen with the supervision of the advanced
    military institutes he established -- the war academy, the medical
    school and the naval academy. Mohamed Ali's initial establishment of
    a modern education system in Egypt had coincided with the fall of
    Napoleon Bonaparte (1815) and the release of a large number of
    officers from the French army, whom the ambitious pasha welcomed into
    the process of modernising the country he ruled.

    It was natural for these men to add a French flavour to their
    schools' programmes and to rely on the resources and methodologies
    they had learned from or taught with in their own institutes. This
    situation sped up the French to Arabic and Turkish translation
    movement, a fact that was followed by the Al-Alsun [languages] School
    being the first to be established alongside the military institutes
    to serve this need.

    During the final quarter of the 19th century, a class of large
    agricultural landowners developed and sent its children to the French
    schools that spread across the country, in particular the Jesuit and
    Frere Schools for boys and the Sacre CÏur and Bonne Pasteur Schools
    for girls. This further spread French culture among this class, to
    the point that the commonly used language in many of its households
    was French rather than Arabic. Many also sent their children to
    complete their education in France's universities, particularly to
    law colleges and the universities of Sorbonne and Montpellier.

    Law schools were the most common type of French educational centre.

    At one time, when the French felt that their influence was waning in
    the khedivial law school, they established an adjunct French law
    school that gained wide acceptance among members of the class of
    large agricultural landowners. Moreover, legal education, which the
    French excelled in, was like the royal door for those who wished to
    gain a high position in the judiciary and then in political life. A
    number of Egyptians who forged paths in these fields benefited from
    this situation, including Saad Zaghloul, Mustafa Kamel, Mohamed
    Farid, Qasim Amin, Ahmed Lutfi El-Sayed, and many others.

    French thus became the primary foreign language for the
    communications of the Egyptian government's ministries, and
    particularly the ministries of justice and foreign affairs. A look at
    the various rounds of negotiations that took place starting in 1920,
    including those known as the Saad-Milner negotiations, and until
    1936, in the negotiations that ended with the treaty of friendship
    and alliance between Egypt and England, shows that Egyptian
    negotiators used French while British negotiators used English.

    Moreover, a look at the foreign press issued during that era confirms
    that some of it was read by Egyptians as well as the foreign
    communities whose languages it was written in. French took the lion's
    share in this, and it is sufficient to note that Al-Ahram was the
    first to publish a French edition called Le Pyramides. Other French
    language newspapers including Le Progrès Egyptien and La Reforme, and
    were widely read by Egyptians.

    In contrast, English culture did not enjoy a similar share. The
    occupying state did not have strong enough missions to compete with
    French missions in the field of education, and the most it could do
    was to establish Victoria College in Alexandria, most of whose
    students were members of the British community in Egypt alongside
    small numbers of Egyptians. While American missions were more active
    in this regard, most of their efforts were spent on urging Coptic
    Christians to change their sect from Orthodox to Protestant, which
    was opposed by the national church. In addition, they established
    schools in the areas they were concentrated in, Assiut in Upper Egypt
    and Tanta in Lower Egypt. They also attracted members of the small
    middle class who did not have a strong social or cultural influence
    as did the aristocracy who joined French schools. Yet even when one
    of the American missionary groups established the American University
    in Cairo in 1920, it did not receive sufficient attention because it
    was at first more of a high school and did not target Egyptians as
    much as minorities such as the Armenians, Greeks, and Jews.

    Another indication confirming the preponderance of French culture
    arises in the war waged by the high commissioner's headquarters in
    Cairo when the affiliation of the local university's administration
    was transferred to the Egyptian Ministry of Education in 1925 and it
    was turned into a royal university. Lord Lloyd, the British high
    commissioner, tried by all means possible to make the majority of its
    colleges' teaching staff English. While he succeeded with regard to
    the colleges of medicine and sciences, he failed with regard to the
    colleges of arts and law, the majority of whose teaching staff
    remained of French culture, whether Egyptians or Frenchmen.

    A final observation, and although it may seem superficial, is in fact
    highly significant. A large number of French vocabulary items slipped
    into the speech of ordinary Egyptians, such as bonjour, bonsoir, au
    revoir, and others, more than their English counterparts were used.

    We can still witness this in the dialogues of cinematic films
    produced during that period.

    THIS LENGTHY HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION explains what took place in the
    period following the 1936 Anglo-Egyptian Treaty. This treaty, while
    settling many of the problems between Egypt and the occupying state,
    also removed many of the obstacles the British authorities in the
    Egyptian capital had placed before the natural relations between
    Cairo and Paris.

    In the period following the signing of the treaty, cultural relations
    between the two states grew active again in an unprecedented manner.

    While the French-English agreement signed in 1904 known as Entente
    Cordiale guaranteed France some advantages that maintained its
    cultural relations with Egypt, and particularly with regard to French
    schools and the post of the director of antiquities remaining with a
    Frenchman, WWI and the resultant growth of the nationalist movement
    drove the British authorities to withdraw most of the advantages the
    French had held onto. Their excuse was always ready -- that Egyptians
    had the competence to fill the places that had been agreed to be left
    to the French.

    To the point, following the Anglo-Egyptian Treaty, Egyptian-French
    relations regained their former position of prominence, this time
    through the will of both sides. And Al-Ahram played a role in this
    change.

    This role is apparent in the trip organised by Al-Ahram for those
    wishing to visit the Paris international exhibition that opened on 16
    June 1937. The young King Farouk I and the president of the French
    republic participated in the opening of the Egyptian section.

    Speeches were given by Mohamed Mahmoud Khalil Bey, the commissioner
    of the exhibition's Egyptian section, and the exhibition's general
    commissioner. Cultural relations between the two countries occupied
    the greater part of the two men's speeches.

    In Khalil Bey's speech, he compared between "Egypt, the mother of the
    arts" and the "vestiges of Napoleon" left behind in Egypt. Of the
    first, he said that "the antiquities of Isis, who Egyptian artists
    have glorified here, and the restoration of her tomb, this is what
    speaks of us in this dialect." As for the latter, he placed two
    volumes of the encyclopedic Description of Egypt before him and
    described them as an innovative work that "all those who love your
    country and ours must be familiar with."

    As for the commissioner's speech, it was replete with praise for
    Egyptian civilisation. He said that the participation of Egyptians in
    the exhibition "shows with the clearest of indications that you are
    worthy of being the successors of ancient Egypt and the great
    territory with which is formed the Egyptian homeland, the producer of
    a civilisation established 6,000 years ago, a civilisation of arts
    and industries that, in their glorified appearance, we applaud this
    year between deference and dignity in the shadow of peace."

    Another occasion presented itself in the form of a celebration of the
    end of the school year for the Jesuit Fathers School in Paris.

    Mahmoud Fakhri Pasha, the Egyptian minister plenipotentiary, attended
    the event on the occasion of his son succeeding in his baccalaureate
    with the grade of "very good". He indicated that he, in turn, was a
    graduate of a branch of the same school in Alexandria, "whose work in
    the Nile Valley in particular had been fruitful and successful. Many
    academics, statesmen and prominent men are graduates of the Jesuit
    Fathers schools. Last May, the French-Arabic school opened in
    Heliopolis and on this occasion Ahmed Ziwar Pasha, a former Egyptian
    prime minister, gave a speech, saying that there is no country more
    ready for this education than Egypt. Putting spirit and thought
    before materiality was one of the truest traditions of ancient
    Egyptian civilisation."

    A third occasion was provided by the International Conference for
    Foreign Writers of French. Egypt's part in it was a speech made by
    Georges Cattawi under the title "Egypt's writers and French
    literature." At the head of these writers was Wasef Ghali Pasha, the
    Egyptian minister of foreign affairs at that time. Cattawi began by
    documenting the national role of the pasha, who was the son of
    Boutros Pasha the Great and the uncle of Boutros Ghali, the former
    secretary-general of the United Nations who once told this writer
    that Wasef Pasha had been the highest role model he had emulated
    throughout his life. Yet despite his national role, Cattawi stressed,
    "he did not overlook the craft of literature, historical studies, and
    the writing of poetry. The traces of his pen can be counted through
    the merits of prose and the choicest works of poetry. He made it
    clear that the West and Christianity have borrowed greatly from
    Islamic civilisation."

    Cattawi did not limit himself to Wasef Ghali, however; in his speech
    he also made observation of other Egyptians he praised for writing in
    French. "No writer in Egypt such as Lutfi El-Sayed, Taha Hussein,
    Ahmed Deif and Mansour Fahmi failed to publish even a small amount in
    French on the margins of their precious writings in Arabic. It is
    sufficient to mention Ahmed Deif, in partnership with a Frenchman,
    wrote the story Mansour and others. He described the charms of the
    Egyptian countryside, the life of sailors on the Nile and in
    Alexandria's harbour, and Al-Azhar University."

    Ahmed Rasim Bey, the undersecretary of the Cairo governorate, also
    participated in this conference. Al-Ahram introduced him as a
    "renowned poet in the world of French literature." The title of his
    report was "Egyptian poets who write poetry in French," and readers
    may be surprised by the number of poets Rasim Bey addressed. They
    included Haidar Fadl, a descendent of Mohamed Ali with two volumes of
    poetry in French, Flowers spattered with blood and An Eastern
    collection. They also included Abdel-Khaleq Tharwat, the famous
    politician, with a volume titled Love among the Arabs. There was also
    Marios Shumayl Bey, who was described as the owner of the Egyptian
    World magazine and who had a volume titled Against forgetfulness,
    Fouad Abu Khatir, who had two volumes of poetry in which he "sang in
    a musical lilt of his joys, grief, melancholy and grievances," as
    well as Mohamed Zulfiqar, "who let free his genius and forged a path
    no one had traversed in terms of style, which was guided by Eastern
    culture."

    At the end of his valuable study, Rasim Bey also made an observation
    of a number of female writers who had participated in the literary
    movement in Egypt and were of great consequence. He mentioned Madame
    Nelli Zananiri, the delicate poetess and scrupulous writer, Madame
    Amy Kheir, of Lebanese origin and a novelist and poet who praised the
    charms of Egypt, Princess Qadriya Hussein, who had written verses
    titled "Royal ghosts" and who charmed readers with their formulation,
    and Mai Ziyada, the great Arab writer who composed valuable writings
    in French.

    TRAVEL LITERATURE formed another side to the expression of cultural
    relations between Cairo and Paris. An example is provided by one of
    the participants in the trip organised by Al-Ahram, Mohamed Awad
    Gabril, who grasped the opportunity to write a long article about his
    overland trip to Paris.

    It was titled "From Cairo to Paris -- 5,500 kilometres in five and a
    half days." During that time he passed through Palestine, Lebanon,
    Syria, Turkey, Bulgaria, Yugoslavia, Italy, and Switzerland, until he
    finally reached France "without boarding a plane or having a ship
    transport him above the depths of water." During that time he made
    note of everything he found strange or unusual. For example, there
    was the Taurus Road, which began in Tripoli and "crossed Anatolia
    between snow-covered mountains reaching heights of 1,500 metres. The
    train continued through these views for about 26 hours, during which
    we traversed 42 tunnels and passed through Ankara, modern Turkey's
    capital."

    Gabril could not deny his wonderment after the trip continued into
    Europe. "We moved through redolent gardens. From meadows whose trees
    were adorned with fresh flowers to soaring mountains from which water
    gushed and wide lakes and flat steppes, the most beautiful sight my
    eyes beheld was two mountains cloaked in a green robe of trees. The
    space between them was so narrow that it only allowed the passage of
    the train and the river running alongside it... We traversed the
    Simplon tunnel, the longest in the world at 16 kilometres by 700
    metres, and passed through Montreux, Lausanne and Dijon before
    reaching Paris."

    In the French capital, the pen was passed from Gabril to the Al-Ahram
    special reporter accompanying the trip. The first thing that caught
    his attention was the excessive speed with which Parisians moved
    about in their daily lives, reaching the point of madness "as it
    seems to us strangers, having grown accustomed in our country to a
    life other than this one."

    Another thing that caught his attention was the absence of an
    electric tram in the capital, for it had become one of the greatest
    factors obstructing traffic. Instead it moved underground, and the
    reporter stated that Paris had in fact become three cities -- one
    under the ground, on one the surface, and a third in the sky.

    The speed characteristic of advanced industrial societies was a
    source of wonder for the reporter. The speed of cars reached the
    point of madness "and their movement in the street is not restricted
    by a system like that present in Egypt. Watching this movement and
    speed I remembered those constables who move on motorcycles through
    the streets of Cairo and collect the numbers of cars speeding, even a
    little, and bring their drivers to trial and the payment of fines...

    It is astonishing, in such crowdedness and speed, to not hear horns.

    Everyone knows their duty and what they must do. Everyone upholds
    order and the law, and it is impossible to find someone crossing the
    street other than in the place allocated to do so. And thus,
    accidents rarely take place and rarely are there victims of cars in
    this capital crowded with millions, in contrary to our own
    situation." And this situation has remained in place!

    Then the reporter spent some time on the Seine, noting that it was no
    comparison to the Nile in terms of size, width or beauty. "And yet
    the French have benefited from it in a manner that some may need to
    see to believe. They benefit through shipping, electricity
    generation, transport, recreation, the construction of cafes and
    everything that science, rationale, and creativity might suggest. As
    for Egypt, the masses just wish to find a spot to sit in so as to
    enjoy the beauty and grandeur of the Nile that foreigners envy." It
    is fortunate that the man did not live to see Egyptians crowding both
    sides of bridges crossing the Nile in search of a breeze during
    Cairo's hot summer nights.

    Al-Ahram 's reporter accompanying the trip allocated another long
    article to Paris' markets and places of entertainment. It is the
    habit of Egyptians on such group outings, once completing the
    shopping they are passionate about, to attempt to persuade one
    another that they got a better price and diminish the worth of what
    their counterparts purchased.

    As for places of entertainment, it was a free for all. The reporter
    wrote of the Latin Quarter, where there were underground bunker-like
    bars with rectangular wooden tables and champagne glasses lined up.

    He also wrote of a dance hall whose last dancers were youth who slept
    all day and stayed up all night "although their dancing is no
    different from any other in terms of modesty and decorum." After
    that, they visited one of the most famous places of entertainment in
    Paris -- Moulin Rouge. After viewing what they pleased, the reporter
    wrote that "the theatres and entertainment halls in France are not
    subject to government monitoring and therefore you find the door to
    innovation consistently open and unrestricted before the public."

    The trip also included a visit to the Paris mosque, and rather than
    performing prayers, the participants sat in its garden drinking
    Arabic coffee. "There were some Moroccan crooners singing Arabic
    songs to the tune of the oud and qanun and the beat of a drum, but it
    was nothing compared to the singing and musical artistry of those we
    are accustomed to in Egypt. At any rate, however, it brought great
    joy to our hearts after having spent days in a purely Frankish
    environment."

    --Boundary_(ID_vI4i4J T+f6lBAOYLmEMLJA)--
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