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  • The story of a non-religious ark-seeker

    The story of a non-religious ark-seeker
    By Walter Lotens

    Uitpers.be
    February 1, 2008

    Frank Westerman, ARARAT (Amsterdam: Atlas), ??¬ 19,90, 284 pp.,
    ISBN 978 90 450 1299 5


    With ARARAT, Frank Westerman continues to expand his non-fictional literary
    oeuvre. Since 1992, the journalist Westerman (1964) has revealed himself as
    a full-time, award-winning, lauded author. In his latest book, he travels to
    mount Ararat. He meets not only ark-seekers, but also himself: the young
    Dutch Protestant who has lost his faith and as a "reversed Job puts his own
    staunchness as a non-believer to the test."

    In 1994, Westerman, then a young correspondent for de Volkskrant in
    Belgrade, made his first appearance with THE BRIDGE OVER THE TARA, an
    account of his journey along the frontlines of former Yugoslavia. As a
    reporter for NRC Handelsblad, he later visited different international
    hotbeds. Together with his colleague journalist Bart Rijs, he knew how to
    penetrate into Srebenica as the only journalist at the time of the fall in
    1995. They wrote a book together, THE BLACKEST SCENARIO, for which they used
    confidential UN documents and interviews with eye-witnesses in order to
    reconstruct the war years of Srebrenica. Between 1997 and 2002, Westerman
    was a correspondent for NRC Handelsblad in Moscow. During his time in
    Moscow, he completed his third non-fiction book, THE GRAIN REPUBLIC, which
    was published in 1999. THE GRAIN REPUBLIC depicts how the Dutch landscape
    has changed over the last one hundred years and what the consequences have
    been for humans and nature. In particular, Westerman follows the life
    history of Sicco Mansholt, a descendent of rich gentleman farmers, who
    allowed his large-scale agricultural politics to penetrate deep into
    Europe--until he himself began to question his beliefs and decided to
    propagate ecological agriculture. After four years as a correspondent in
    Moscow, Westerman wrote ENGINEERS OF THE SOUL, a book about Joseph Stalin's
    megalomaniacal hydraulic projects and the socialist-realist novels that were
    written about it. It is with this book, which was repeatedly awarded, that
    the journalist-writer established his name. His big breakthrough came with
    EL NEGRO AND ME (2004), a fascinating travelogue about race, culture and
    identity, for which he practically traveled the entire globe. The latter was
    crowned with the Golden Owl Literary Award 2005, short-list nominee AKO
    Literary Prize 2005, and was nominated for the Bob den Uyl Prize 2005.
    ARARAT too has been nominated for the AKO Literary Prize.

    Religion and Science

    In the meantime, Frank Westerman has become a notorious representative of
    what his publisher, Atlas, calls literary non-fiction in the Dutch language.
    The method of work is known: you think of a theme (and possibly some
    subthemes), you work your way into the subject, then you take off, you
    travel, around the world if you must, then you include yourself in the
    story, and all of that with the necessary literary sharpness. Westerman too
    applies this procedure--and does so successfully--in his latest work. ARARAT
    is a book about believing and knowing, religion and science, centered around
    mount Ararat.

    Raised a Protestant, but fallen from his religion, Westerman wanted to put
    his own staunchness as a non-believer to the test through a pilgrimage to
    the Biblical home where Noah's Ark is said to have floated. "I wanted to
    climb this holy mountain with an eye on both the myth and the reality" (p.
    52). In Etchmiadzin, Westerman visits an Armenian Apostolic Church and is
    astonished by the devotion of black-clad monks with pointy hats. He does not
    mince his words: "In my opinion, there was already something wrong with the
    word 'religion'; it presupposes a god, and as soon as you recognize it, what
    apparently follows inevitably is to serve him. Slithering like snakes, they
    shuffled kneeling around the altar, with faces strained in pain" (p. 125).

    Knowing in words

    The ascent of mount Ararat in Eastern Turkey is described in the final
    chapter. To help describe his preparation (the difficulty in acquiring a
    visa, the procurement of hiking material, his physical training together
    with his wife by walking across the shallows, his deep dive into literature
    about the Flood, Biblical ark-seekers, and Ararat, the Armenian genocide,
    geological studies, literature, among which Orhan Pamuk's SNOW, and so on
    and so forth), he needs over 250 pages. His own past is also elaborately
    described: not only his Protestant background, but also his schooling. He
    still has sharp and good memories of his mathematics teacher "Knol" and of
    his exact subjects in general. "Biology, physics, and chemistry relieved the
    world of many secrets. The knowledge that I absorbed gave me solid footing
    and confidence, which contributed to my praying less and less convincingly"
    (p. 103). The literature-oriented journalist also reveals that he is an
    agricultural engineering graduate, having studied geology in Delft under
    Professor Salomon Kroonenberg, a scientist who has, in the meantime, become
    famous for a broad audience with THE HUMAN MEASURE, THE EARTH IN TEN
    THOUSAND YEARS. Yet, it is the word that fascinates the author especially.
    In the course of the story, it becomes apparent that Westerman's religion is
    one of language. "Since I dedicated myself to writing, I have gained great
    respect for the word. In every sentence I searched for words with the right
    weight and sound. I tasted them on my tongue, sucked on them until they had
    the right color and strung them together into a chain of beads. Although I
    chose and ordered them myself, the words never did exactly as I wanted.
    Embedded in a sentence, they sometimes suddenly changed their radiance or
    meaning. That was the miraculous part" (p. 210). The manner in which he
    describes mount Ararat is certainly worth the effort: "With her swollen
    body, she resembled a fortune-teller who had nestled herself on the plain
    and had assumed an inaccessible pose. Around her waist, she donned a shabby
    pleated skirt with erosion grooves." (p. 219).


    Non-fiction literature

    When he finally stands on top of mount Ararat at the end of the book, he
    realizes that he has freed himself from his past, because "at the snow
    frontier of Ararat, there were no angels with shining swords" or a piece of
    ark wood to stumble over. ARARAT is a rich book. A great number of
    geological classifications, geographical explanations, historical stories,
    myths and references to recent political developments and to world
    literature sometimes leaves the impression that a few tipped-over
    bookshelves and random experiences are thrust upon the reader. Yet, it does
    not give the impression of a walking encyclopedia. Nor did it become a
    summary of random experiences with no purpose. Walking in the shallows in a
    story about mount Ararat? It's possible. With a very good style and aptitude
    for building stories, Frank Westerman can pull it off. Similar to great
    names like V.S. Naipaul and Ryszard Kapuscinki, he outstandingly excercises
    that difficult genre of non-fiction literature. It is in that in-between
    genre in which journalism, travelogue, and literature seamlessly cross over
    into each other that Westerman is at his best.
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