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  • The Armenian Anomaly

    St. Thomas Magazine
    WINTER 2008 : VOLUME 24 : NUMBER 1


    The Armenian Anomaly

    by Annemarie Iddins '08


    ARMENIA-The stone spire of the oldest church in Yerevan sits in a tiny
    courtyard almost entirely obscured by encroaching sidewalk cafes and
    construction barriers. Walking along a back alley to enter through the
    gate, visitors are greeted by street dogs and old women sweeping up
    and selling candles.

    The scene is typically Armenian in that things old and poor sit a
    little forgotten among gaudy new cafes. But what I learned in my
    August trip to the tiny republic is that, while the world seems to
    have overlooked Armenia, its people have perseverance and faith that
    are ultimately unforgettable.

    "Armenians as a whole are very hospitable and we have so much
    history," said Ani Movsisyan, a 22-year-old Armenian. "We have a lot
    to offer the world."


    Keeping the ancient alive

    One of the Armenians' greatest gifts is the ability to persevere in
    the face of incalculable odds. From 1915 to 1918, more than one
    million Armenians died in the century's first genocide, carried out by
    Ottoman Turks. A multitude fled to other areas around the globe. In
    1922, Armenia joined the Soviet Union in a bid for protection and
    endured 70 years of Soviet oppression. In 1988 an earthquake flattened
    Armenia's industrial capital city, Gyumri. Today, as a capitalist
    Christian democracy, Armenia struggles to emerge into the modern
    world. The Cafesjian Family Foundation in Minneapolis is one
    organization dedicated to helping Armenians do just that while
    promoting Armenian interests worldwide. Gerard L. Cafesjian, an
    Armenian-American and a former executive of West Law in Eagan, Minn.,
    created the foundation in 1996. Father Dennis Dease, president of the
    University of St. Thomas, has been a friend of Cafesjian and his wife,
    Cleo, for more than two decades. Dease serves on the foundation's
    board of directors, a relationship that has led to collaboration
    between the university and Cafesjian on several projects.

    As a writer for The Armenian Reporter, a weekly newspaper the
    foundation has acquired, I had the opportunity to travel to Armenia
    last summer, where I worked with journalism professors Wendy Wyatt,
    Mark Neuzil and Michael O'Donnell on several media projects. Before
    the trip I knew nothing about Armenia, yet in exploring the country I
    developed an intense appreciation for the place and its people - an
    appreciation I hope to share with more Tommies as the collaboration
    among St. Thomas, the Cafesjian Foundation and Armenia continues.

    "There will be opportunities for students and faculty to visit the
    Republic of Armenia," Dease said, "and engage in project collaboration
    to bolster print and broadcast journalism, to support the development
    of an independent judiciary and the rule of law, to assist in the
    development of such alternative sources of energy as wind, solar and
    hydrogen power, to facilitate the publication of ancient Christian
    theological and liturgical writings, and to aid in the development of
    entrepreneurship and commerce."


    Surviving the Soviet demise

    When the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Armenians had a homeland for
    the first time since 1395 (with the exception of a brief period
    between 1918 and 1922 after the Ottoman Empire fell and before Armenia
    became part of the Soviet Union). But the country faced myriad
    problems. For two years the nation was without regular energy
    supplies, resulting in vast deforestation as people cut down trees for
    fuel.

    "When there was a nationwide power outage from 1991 to 1993, my father
    used to attach the TV to the car battery so everyone could watch TV in
    the garage," said Movsisyan, who works for the Cafesjian Museum
    Foundation and also studies marketing economics at a university in
    Yerevan. She lives in Etchmiadzin and rides the bus to Yerevan each
    day, where she does human relations work for the foundation. During
    our visit, her work included translating and giving tours to the
    St. Thomas contingent.

    Stories like hers are common among young Armenians. Movsisyan's
    colleague, Lilit Matevosyan, 21, said her grandfather used to take her
    to government protests on his shoulders. As a recent university
    graduate in economics, Matevosyan said if she could change one thing
    about Armenia, it would be the political corruption.

    "There are a lot of people here without jobs because the oligarchs
    give important jobs to their unqualified friends," Matevosyan
    said. "We have an unemployment rate of almost 30 percent, and even
    though the economy is growing, it's only a few people who are
    benefiting."


    Beyond belief

    Dealing with such inequalities each day takes a lot of faith,
    something most Armenians seem to have in abundance. InA.D. 301,
    Armenia became the first country to declare Christianity as its state
    religion. Just across the Turkish border looms Mount Ararat, where the
    Bible says Noah's Ark came to rest. Armenia's current boundary
    comprises only a small percentage of the nation's ancient area. It is
    a landlocked, mountainous region roughly the size of Maryland, with a
    population of about3 million.

    Yerevan is a living experiment in rebuilding a political economy. The
    beautiful stone museum of legendary artist and film director Sergei
    Parajanov looks out over the debris-strewn Hrazdan River canyon and
    Hrazdan Stadium, the nation's largest football (soccer) venue. On the
    opposite hillside stands a statue of Mother Armenia that in 1967
    replaced a statue of former Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin. On the
    street below, an old Soviet-era truck chugs along next to a new BMW, a
    blunt juxtaposition of poverty and luxury.

    Within this complex social structure, religion is a unifying factor,
    with 94.7 percent of Armenians professing faith in the Armenian
    Apostolic Church.

    "The Church plays an important role in my life and the lives of most
    Armenians," Movsisyan said. "Sundays are about church and family, and
    if they can't go to church, lots of Armenians have areas in their
    houses where they pray."

    While many Armenians assert the importance of the Church to their
    culture, they acknowledge that its influence was limited during the
    Soviet era, when there were 10 clergy for all Armenians and baptisms
    took place in secret.

    Elyssa Karanian, 22, is an Armenian-American journalist and researcher
    living and working in Yerevan. Karanian's experiences in Armenia and
    the United States lead her to believe that the Church plays a larger
    role in diasporan communities (groups that have been dispersed outside
    of their traditional homeland) than it does in Armenia itself. "I
    think the years of Soviet rule did quite a bit to diminish the
    Church's role in Armenia," Karanian said.


    The face of faith

    Whatever the role of faith in Armenia might be, it is impossible to
    deny its presence. Armenia prides itself on being the first nation to
    adopt Christianity as the national religion. Legend says that in the
    third century, St. Gregory the Illuminator refused to renounce his
    faith and was tortured by the Armenian KingTrdat IV. The king
    eventually threw Gregory into a deep pit reserved for criminals, where
    Gregory was expected to die. The official history of the Armenian
    Church says that Gregory survived in the pit for 13 years, until he
    healed King Trdat from a distance. The king then brought Gregory out
    of exile and converted the nation to Christianity in A.D 301.

    Today people can visit the pit at the 17th century monastery of Khor
    Virap. Armenians lovingly refer to it as the "Holy Hole," but
    claustrophobics beware: A chapel was built above the pit, and visitors
    have to enter the room through a tiny crawlspace. Above ground, the
    views from Khor Virap are more impressive. It sits in the shadow of
    Mount Ararat, and although the border with Turkey is closed to
    Armenians, the mountain is a national symbol and is on Armenia's coat
    of arms.

    "The Church seems to be embedded in our culture," Movsisyan
    said. "Anywhere you travel in Armenia, you will come across the
    splendid testaments to this in churches, monasteries, temples and
    khachkars [traditional stone crosses] that are all carved with great
    masterfulness and endless faith."

    Khor Virap is just one example of the faith incarnate in Armenia
    today. Another is the 13th century Haghartsin monastic complex. It
    sits near the town of Dilijan in the northeast province of Tavush,
    where stunning views of the forested mountains prompt Armenians to
    refer to the region as "little Switzerland."

    In a courtyard at the monastery, women bake loaves of a
    doughnut-shaped sweet bread called katnahunc. A woman uses a wooden
    paddle to pull 60 loaves a day out of a wood-fired brick oven, while
    her granddaughter hides behind mountainous bowls of dough. The loaves
    are sold to tourists and pilgrims. Behind the main chapel, a twisted
    700-year-old tree specific to the region scrapes the sky with its
    scraggly branches.


    Tapping potential

    In the courtyard of the ancient little church in Yerevan, where
    skeletons of old Soviet buildings are surrounded by construction
    cranes, Mount Ararat looms in the distance, I have to believe
    Movsisyan is right about Armenia having much to offer. America is
    enduring nothing today that Armenia hasn't experienced, and in
    collaboration among students, citizens and believers we have the
    potential to achieve the sort of economic and political renewal that
    will force people to remember from whence they came.

    "[Our faith] has always played a vital role in preserving our nation
    and our state," Movsisyan said. "In times of foreign invasions, in
    times when we had no state, our religion and strong belief kept us
    alive and united."

    Original format with photo:
    http://www.stthomas.edu/magazine/2008/Winte r/Armenian.html


    About

    St. Thomas magazine is published three times a year (January, May and
    September) by University Relations. The magazine aspires to be a
    credible reflection of the educational mission of the university, and
    serves as a primary resource for communicating to both our alumni and
    the larger community with emphasis on cultural awareness and
    intellectual curiosity.

    © 2007 University of St. Thomas · Minnesota
    2115 Summit Avenue · Saint Paul, Minnesota 55105 · USA
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