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Long in diaspora, Armenians return home

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  • Long in diaspora, Armenians return home

    Long in diaspora, Armenians return home

    The Associated Press
    Sunday, June 8, 2008

    YEREVAN, Armenia: What would prompt a young family to abandon a
    comfortable life and move to a poor country where running water is
    still a luxury for many, politics are messy and the threat of war
    looms large?

    For Aline Masrlian, 41, her husband, Gevork Sarian, and their two
    children, it was their motherland calling.

    "It is something special when you live in your own land," said
    Masrlian, who moved here after her family had lived for generations in
    Syria.

    Lured by the economic opportunities in a fast changing country and the
    lure of home, some people from Armenia's vast diaspora are moving to
    the land that their ancestors had long kept alive as little more than
    an idea. Longtime residents, meanwhile, are no longer fleeing the
    country in large numbers.

    While 3.2 million people live in this landlocked Caucasus mountain
    nation - the smallest of the ex-Soviet republics - an estimated 5.7
    million Armenians reside abroad. The largest disappears are in Russia
    (2 million), the United States (1.4 million), Georgia (460,000) and
    France (450,000), according to government data.

    Most of the diaspora, like Masrlian's family, are descendants of those
    who fled the killings of up to 1.5 million Armenians in Ottoman Turkey
    during World War I - a tragedy Armenia wants to be recognized as
    genocide but modern Turkey insists was an inherent part of the war's
    violence.

    Much later, others ran away from the economic collapse that Armenia
    suffered following the 1991 breakup of the Soviet Union, when
    electricity was available only several hours a day, people had to chop
    down trees for heat, and bread and butter were strictly rationed.

    The devastating conflict with neighboring Azerbaijan over the disputed
    territory of Nagorno-Karabakh, in which over 30,000 people have died,
    compounded the exodus. An estimated 500,000 people left the country in
    1992-94, many heading to Russia.

    However, over the past four years Armenia has registered an overall
    population inflow of 33,200, the first positive trend since gaining
    independence in 1991 with the Soviet collapse, said Vahan Bakhshetian,
    a migration expert with the Territorial Management Ministry. While
    it's difficult to tell how many Armenians are returning permanently,
    Bakhshetian said the trend offers hope.

    "We are now seeing many of those who had left return," said Foreign
    Ministry spokesman Vladimir Karapetian.

    Among the returnees are many from the Russian diaspora. Some are lured
    back by economic improvements here, while others are escaping growing
    xenophobia in Russia, where attacks on dark-skinned people from the
    Caucasus are frequent.

    Garik Hayrapetyan of the United Nations' Population Fund said
    Armenians also are no longer leaving in large numbers, but he
    cautioned that the emerging repatriation will not be sustained without
    economic and political progress.

    For many, the country's biggest asset is its rich cultural
    heritage. Two millennia ago, Armenia was a vast kingdom stretching
    between the Black and Caspian seas. Eventually it was divided and
    absorbed by bigger states, including the Ottoman empire and czarist
    Russia, and later the Soviet Union.

    Armenians like to brag that Noah's Ark came to rest in their country,
    on the biblical Mount Ararat - though the snowcapped mountain is now
    part of Turkey, overlooking Yerevan. The country is said to be the
    first state to adopt Christianity as its religion.

    Still, in many ways Armenia remains an unlikely place to attract
    returnees. Despite economic progress in recent years, over a quarter
    of the population lives in poverty and the average monthly wage is a
    meager $275.

    Outside aid is crucial. Diaspora Armenians send millions of dollars
    for investment and aid projects, and much of the population survives
    on individual money transfers from relatives abroad. The International
    Monetary Fund estimates that remittances make up 10 percent of the
    country's economy.

    Those sending money are moved by the same love of country that draws
    Armenians back. James Tufenkian, an Armenian-American, has invested
    some $30 million in reviving the traditional carpet industry - largely
    destroyed in the Soviet era - building hotels and running charity
    efforts. Today, he provides jobs to over 1,000 people here.

    Tufenkian, 47, said he decided to help after his first visit at the
    height of Armenia's economic decline in the early 1990s.

    "I felt like I had a chance to do something to improve people's lives,
    that it was my homeland calling," Tufenkian said in a telephone
    interview from New York.

    Today, Yerevan is slowly transforming itself from a run-down city into
    a vibrant, modern capital. The downtown boasts Western boutiques,
    expensive restaurants and young people in trendy outfits.

    Yet the rest of the city, perched on steep hills, is a bleak mix of
    Soviet-era concrete apartment blocks and dilapidated two- and
    three-story houses with laundry hanging on balconies. The air is
    heavily polluted, mostly from the exhaust of the battered Soviet-era
    cars that clog the city. Some districts in Yerevan continue to have
    shortages of running water, which were common in the 1990s.

    While Armenia is considered one of the freer countries among
    post-Soviet republics, its fragile hold on democracy became apparent
    earlier this year. Eight people were killed in clashes between
    government forces and opposition activists protesting election
    results. The Nagorno-Karabakh conflict also keeps tensions high.

    But ask Gevork Sarian about life in Armenia, and the emigre who
    returned from Syria with his wife and children talks more about
    finding a homeland than about the wider political climate.

    The bearded, smiling Sarian attended university in Yerevan in the
    early 1980s and said he always wanted to return. The family moved back
    in 1998, and he started several successful businesses, including a
    lingerie store run by his wife.

    Now 46, Sarian said he had felt separated from his Syrian
    neighbors. "Even if they look at you in a good way, you are still a
    stranger - this is the feeling of Armenian diaspora everywhere," he
    said.

    His 15-year-old son Ardag added that in Armenia "you feel that it is
    your country."

    Repatriation wasn't as easy for Aline Masrlian, the wife in the
    family. She recalled a middle-class life in the northern Syrian city
    of Aleppo, with running water available 24 hours a day and the markets
    full of fruits and vegetables. In Yerevan, when the family first
    arrived, water was on just two hours a day, sometimes the only bread
    she could find was stale, and she missed the job she had loved, as a
    construction engineer.

    But 10 years later, sitting in a new, spacious apartment decorated
    with family photos, Aline said she has no regrets. "I decided that
    this is my country."

    More recent returnee Zorair Atabekian, 36, hopes for a similar
    future. He came back in 2005 after five years in Canada, homesick and
    hoping to go into business. Though he still earns far less selling
    jewelry in Yerevan than he did running an apartment design firm in
    Montreal, he said he knew his decision would eventually prove right.
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