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A Patchwork Land Confronts a Lie of Whole Cloth

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  • A Patchwork Land Confronts a Lie of Whole Cloth

    March 11, 2008
    Samsun Journal
    A Patchwork Land Confronts a Lie of Whole Cloth
    By SABRINA TAVERNISE

    http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/11/world /europe/11turkey.html?_r=1&oref=slogin

    SAMSUN , Turkey - When the word spread that they were coming, they were
    suspected of being missionaries. Then fugitives. But when the small
    band of Turkish intellectuals finally arrived at this Black Sea city
    in February, people seemed to understand that they really wanted only
    to tell stories.

    The group - a feminist (Kurdish), a writer (ethnic Armenian), an
    academic and a photographer (both Turkish) - were presenting a book of
    photographs of people >From Turkey.

    The book counted 44 different ethnicities and sects across Turkey and
    captured their members dancing, eating, praying, laughing and playing
    music. If that sounds innocuous, it is not. For its 85-year history as
    a nation, Turkey has a very specific line on cultural diversity:
    Anyone who lives in Turkey is a Turk. Period.

    Attila Durak, a New-York-trained photographer born in Turkey, compiled
    the book, traveling around Turkey for seven consecutive summers,
    living with families and taking their portraits.

    His intent was to show that Turkey is a constantly changing
    kaleidoscope of different cultures, not a hard piece of marble
    monoculture as the Turkish state says, and that acknowledging those
    differences is an important step toward a healthier society.

    "People see themselves in the photographs, and they realize they are
    no different," said Mr. Durak, whose book, "Ebru: Reflections of
    Cultural Diversity in Turkey," was published in 2006. He said viewers
    reacted with: "Those Kurdish people have kids who play together like
    ours. Look, they dance the same kind of wedding dance." Ever since
    Turkey became a nation in 1923, it has been scrubbing its citizens of
    identities other than Turkish. In some ways, that was necessary as a
    glue to hold the young country together. European powers were intent
    on carving up its territory, a patchwork of remains from the collapsed
    Ottoman Empire, and Muslim Turkishness was a unifying ideology.

    But it forced families from different backgrounds, who spoke different
    languages - Armenian, Kurdish, Greek, Georgian, Macedonian - to hide
    their identities. Family histories, like the crushing events of
    Turkey's genocide against Armenians in 1915, were never spoken of, and
    children grew up not knowing their own past or identity. "Memories
    like that were whispered into ears behind closed doors," said Fethiye
    Cetin, a lawyer who learned only in her 20s that her grandmother was
    Armenian. "There was a big fear involved in this, so the community
    itself perpetuated the silence."

    It is that locked past that Mr. Durak and his colleagues seek to
    open. Their method is telling their own stories to audiences across
    Turkey as an accompaniment to exhibits of Mr. Durak's photographs, to
    open a conversation about the past and to chip away at stereotypes.

    The academic, Ayse Gul Altinay, an anthropology professor from Sabanci
    University in Istanbul, is a kind of national psychiatrist,
    identifying the most painful points from the country's past and
    offering a new way to think about them as a route to healing.

    She points to the regional art form, Ebru, the process of paper
    marbling that produces constantly changing interwoven patterns, as a
    metaphor for multiculturalism.

    "We're not a mosaic, different from one another and fixed in glass,"
    said Ms. Altinay, who earned her doctorate from Duke
    University. "Ebru is done using water. It is impossible to have clear
    lines or distinct borders."

    In Samsun, a bustling city with a nationalist reputation, and the
    fifth in Turkey to see the exhibition, the audience was small but
    interested. The writer in the group, Takuhi Tovmasyan, talked about
    how she was gruffly banished from a piano recital hall after winning a
    competition, when teachers learned her last name, which is plainly
    Armenian. "I hid this feeling for a long time," said Ms. Tovmasyan,
    who has published a book of family recipes and stories as a way to
    open up a conversation about the past. "But when I saw these
    photographs, I decided I needed to talk about it."

    The discussions have hit a nerve. At a presentation in Kars, in
    eastern Turkey, a man in his 50s in a suit spoke through tears about
    discovering that his family had been Molokan, also known as Russian
    Old Believers. It was the first time he was speaking publicly about
    it, he said.

    Others have apologized emotionally to Ms. Tovmasyan. In Samsun, a
    young man in a white sweatshirt said, "I personally apologize for 'Get
    out,' on behalf of all my friends," eliciting applause. "It's really a
    terrible thing." Mr. Durak's subjects look into his camera with a
    directness that is startling. A Jewish man sits in a chair in
    Istanbul. A gypsy in a flowered shirt plays the saxophone. A woman
    from the Black Sea coast stands in a doorway, her fingers touching her
    collarbone.

    Each is labeled for ethnicity and sect, a categorization that
    initially struck local authorities here in Samsun as something close
    to seditious.

    "They said, 'We have to investigate; maybe they are wanted by the
    police,' " said Ozlem Yalcinkaya, an organizer from a student group,
    the Community Volunteers Foundation, who arranged the exhibit. "I
    said, 'If they are fugitives, why would they be putting their names on
    the exhibition posters?' "

    In the end, authorities relented, and the municipality even allowed
    the use of its lecture hall. "The genie is out of the bottle,"
    Ms. Altinay said.

    She added, "Too many people are interested in looking into who we are,
    who lived on this land before us," for the healing process to be
    stopped.

    A young woman in the audience echoed that thought, as she apologized
    to Ms. Tovmasyan. For as gloomy as the past was, the future was more
    hopeful, the woman said, because young people are much more flexible
    and accepting than the older generations.

    "In a few years' time, a lot of people will be doing a lot of
    apologizing," she said.
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