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Myanmar's Colonial-Era Strand Hotel Well Preserved

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  • Myanmar's Colonial-Era Strand Hotel Well Preserved

    MYANMAR'S COLONIAL-ERA STRAND HOTEL WELL PRESERVED

    San Jose Mercury News
    Sept 8 2008
    CA

    Grass grows around the rundown mausoleum of Myanmar's best known
    citizen, former... ((AP Photo))Â"12345Â"

    YANGON, Myanmar--In the colonial heyday of this elegant Victorian
    hotel, gentlemen in white dinner jackets and ladies in flowing gowns
    sipped cocktails on the shaded verandah as the sun went down, enjoying
    a welcome respite from the tropical heat.

    The legendary Strand Hotel was one of the great watering holes of
    the British Empire. Just like Raffles Hotel in Singapore or the
    Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, the 107-year old Strand remains a
    national landmark.

    Yangon has the largest number of colonial buildings in Southeast
    Asia, including colonnaded government offices and sumptuous official
    residences, but most are dilapidated, neglected for decades.

    Large black water streaks mark most of the facades, and bushes
    sprout from the roofs of some, including the stately High Court
    building--adjacent to a rooftop statue of a British lion still gazing
    over his domain.

    Surprisingly, however, most of the old buildings appear to have
    survived relatively unscathed the fury of Cyclone Nargis which
    devastated the capital when it roared through on May 3. Although
    many modern structures were badly hit with their roofs torn off,
    the city's historic downtown district appears relatively undamaged .

    Except for the glittering golden stupas such as the famed Shwedagon
    Pagoda that are the symbol of Yangon, almost everything else in the
    city is suffering from more than 40 years of neglect. This includes
    the potholed roads and even the rundown mausoleum where

    Myanmar's best-known citizen, former United Nations Secretary General
    U Thant, lies buried.

    The Strand was built in 1901 by the Sarkies brothers, Armenian refugees
    from Turkey who founded a chain of luxury hotels in the region,
    including Raffles, the Oriental, the Majapahit in the Indonesian port
    of Surabaya, and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang, Malaysia.

    In the 1920s and '30s, it became a favorite hangout of famous writers,
    British officers, celebrities and even royalty. Luminaries such as
    Rudyard Kipling, W. Somerset Maugham, Graham Greene, Noel Coward,
    George Orwell and Lord Mountbatten were all regular customers. More
    recently, it has accommodated the likes of Mick Jagger and Oliver
    Stone.

    Completely renovated in 1990, its teak floors are polished and
    gleaming, the antique chandeliers sparkle in the spacious and luxurious
    reception rooms and the quintessential colonial icon--the ceiling
    fans--gently rotate above tables surrounded by rattan chairs in the
    cozy cafe.

    But today, the Strand is mostly empty, just like in other hotels in
    this city of five million once called Rangoon. Since the cyclone swept
    through the nearby Irrawaddy Delta killing more than 130,000 people,
    the number of guests has plummeted.

    "It's understandable that a tragedy of this scale has badly affected
    Myanmar's entire tourist industry," said the hotel's manager Budiman
    Widjaja. "But we hope that with the passage of time things will
    improve."

    Before World War II, the Strand was reserved for "whites only," but
    during the Japanese occupation of Burma--as Myanmar was formerly
    known--it became an army barracks. It received its first Burmese
    guests only after the war.

    The socialist military regime that ruled the nation from 1962 to
    1988 nationalized the hotel and it became a rundown shadow of its
    former self.

    But since the early 1990s, the military junta has tried to encourage
    foreign tourism, and the property was acquired by Adrian Zecha, the
    founder of Singapore's exclusive Aman Resorts chain, and renovation
    began.

    The Strand reopened in 1995 as an all-suite, top-of-the range boutique
    hotel. Its teak and marble floors, mahogany furniture, and canopied
    beds compliment original pieces, like period bathroom fixtures.

    But unlike the other grand old hotels in the region, the Strand's
    restoration remained true to its architectural past, and it has no
    new wing, and no swimming pool or tennis courts.

    "We came to the Strand because of its old-world romantic charm,"
    said Tomas Llobet, from Brussels, Belgium, who was celebrating a
    marriage anniversary with his wife Victoria. "We wanted to be in a
    place with a lot of historic character, properly renovated without
    huge concessions to modernity."

    The ghosts of the British colonels would approve their choice.

    --Boundary_(ID_9+9Dz2IzKrkjy77XnD+sdA)--
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