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Ararat, By Frank Westerman Trans. Sam Garrett

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  • Ararat, By Frank Westerman Trans. Sam Garrett

    ARARAT, BY FRANK WESTERMAN TRANS. SAM GARRETT
    Reviewed by Peter Stanford

    Independent.co.uk
    Friday, 12 September 2008

    Up the mystic mountain in a flight from faith

    In their unceasing efforts to convince the rest of us that every single
    line of the Good Book is literally true, Bible fundamentalists have
    long been fond of undertaking treks to "prove" that some landmark
    events of the Old Testament did take place. So Mount Ararat, in
    present-day Turkey, has been trawled for signs that Noah's Ark did
    end up, as Genesis 8:4 claims, beached on its peak once the flood
    receded. Fragments of old wood have been claimed as sections of the
    rudder of the ark, and rock formations highlighted as evidence of
    the skid marks where the prow of the zoo ship came to rest.

    Frank Westerman touches briefly on several such escapades in Ararat,
    but his approach to scaling this iconic mountain is altogether
    different - and more intriguing. His climb is an assault on his own
    loss of belief in God and an exploration of the current abyss that
    exists between religion and science. As he circles the foothills of
    Ararat, Westerman also travels back to his high school and university
    teachers in search of ballast as the rational explanations of science
    that seemed so watertight to him begin to spring leaks.

    His questioning throws him back on childhood memories - not just
    of being spoon-fed a tradi tional Christianity, but of a brush,
    through his father's involvement with the oil industry in his native
    Netherlands, with the destruction of a drilling rig in Drenthe in
    1965. Unexplained events ultimately caused the earth to erupt and
    swallow the rig whole. Nature apparently defeated scientific progress.

    Part memoir, part philosophical tome, part travelogue, Ararat is
    an ambitious and attractive book. Its tone is learned, thoughtful
    and usually intimate, for which part of the credit must go to the
    translator, Sam Garrett.

    Fundamentalists are fond of finding answers to every earthly
    dilemma, but those expecting either trite platitudes or the dodgy
    archaeological theories that make for headline-grabbing bestsellers
    will be disappointed.

    Westerman's pilgrimage doesn't have a happy or neat ending.

    Once he has negotiated the politics that surround Ararat - standing
    on disputed land between Armenia, Turkey and Iran - his climb becomes
    an ordeal. Cold, sore and forced to make his ascent with less than
    congenial Czech companions, he finds himself wondering if he has set
    out with the wrong idea.

    At one point he describes his whole project as "Job in reverse". Just
    as Job is made to test his faith by Satan, acting as the chief
    prosecutor in God's heavenly court, Westerman is testing his own
    unbelief. It is a finely balanced and well-told experiment that will
    echo with many readers.

    Peter Stanford's latest book is 'Teach Yourself Catholicism'
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