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Ancient capitals of Yervandashat and Bagaran now open to visitors

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  • Ancient capitals of Yervandashat and Bagaran now open to visitors

    After years of isolation, the ancient capitals of Yervandashat and Bagaran are now open to visitors
    by Tatul Hakobyan


    www.reporter.am/go/article/2009-04-10-after-years -of-isolation-the-ancient-capitals-of-yervandashat -and-bagaran-are-now-open-to-visitors
    Published: Friday April 10, 2009


    Yervandashat, Armavir Province, Armenia - The residents of Bagaran
    wake up at the crack of dawn every morning to the voices of the
    muezzin from the neighboring village of Halimjan. The two villages are
    separated by the Akhuryan river, which serves as the Armenian-Turkish
    boundary.

    "Of course it disturbs us," said Gevorg Margaryan, the head of Bagaran
    village.

    Bagaran is one of the oldest settlements in Armenia. It was founded by
    King Yervand, the last of the Yervandunis, in the 3rd century
    B.C.E. It was here that King Yervand, or Orontes, transported pagan
    idols from Armavir, constructed pagan temples, and appointed his
    brother as high priest.

    For centuries - actually until 1920 - Bagaran was spread along the
    right and left banks of the Akhuryan and also on the left bank of the
    Araks River.

    "Our forefathers crossed the Akhuryan twice, once in 1917 and for the
    last time in 1920, never to return," said Mr. Margaryan.

    At the beginning of the 20th century, Bagaran had about 800
    residents. To escape from the Turkish massacres, the residents of
    Bagaran crossed the left bank of the Akhuryan River. When the first
    Armenian republic was created in 1918 and the territories expanded,
    the Bagarantsis returned to the right bank. At that time, Bagaran was
    part of the district of Surmalu. After the loss of the republic, the
    Western Armenian regions of Surmalu and the region of Kars, along with
    the rest of the territories of Western Armenia, became part of Turkey.

    The apricots are delicious
    "Today the village has 610 resident. Apricots grow very well here. We
    are primarily employed in agriculture and dairy farming," the village
    head explained.

    After the fall of the Yervanduni Kingdom, Bagaran lost its shine and
    splendor and for almost a thousand years is not mentioned. In the 9th
    century, Bagaran is once again mentioned and the first king of the
    Bagratunis, Ashot I, proclaimed Bagaran the capital of the kingdom.

    It was only a few years ago that one had to get special permission
    from Armenia's national security and border forces to travel to the
    oldest capitals of Armenia, Bagaran and Yervandashat. But today, that
    checkpoint has been removed and all those who wish to go and visit
    these glorious sites, including diaspora Armenians and tourists, can
    now do so.

    Before traveling down to Bagaran and Yervandashat, it is necessary to
    stop at a certain distance and look at the breathtaking scenery from
    above. This is the Yeraskha - dzor Valley, where the Araks and
    Akhuryan rivers mix together.

    Yervandashat is only one kilometer away from Bagaran. It was the last
    capital of the Yervanduni Kingdom, taking over from Armavir. The city,
    which is spread over the two banks of the Araks River, used to have a
    vibrant population. Yervandashat was destroyed in the 4th century
    C.E. by the forces of the Persian King Shabuh.

    Today, Yervandashat is a village of 825 residents. Since the collapse
    of the Soviet Union, the village has only ever had one village head, -
    Hovan Avetisian.

    "I have been the village head since 1991 and I don't belong to any
    political party. Those who live in Yervandashat are natives to this
    village, but we also have residents from Verin Sasnashen and
    Sarnaghpyur of the region of Talin. The people here grow fruit trees
    and keep cattle - cows and sheep. The village is about 4,000 hectares
    but only 10 percent of it is used in agriculture," Mr. Avetisian said.

    The village head recalled how in Soviet times, Yervandashat was a very
    closed-off place. To come here one needed to go through several
    government departments to get the necessary permission. After
    Armenia's independence, diaspora Armenians expressed great interest in
    visiting Bagaran and Yervadashad. However, these villages continued to
    remain difficult places to visit, once again tied off because of the
    different papers one needed to get.

    "In 2001, during the ceremonies commemorating the 1700th anniversary
    of the adoption of Christianity, initially there was an intention of
    including these two villages in the formal program of activities
    because there are many historic sites in the two historic capitals at
    the point where the Araks and Akhuryan rivers meet. There is the
    fortress of Queen Parantsem, the grave of Gevorg Marzpetuni, which is
    right on the banks of the Araks River, but on the Turkish side,"
    Mr. Avetisian explained.

    For two years, a group of archaeologists have been working in
    Yervandashat and they have already discovered remains from the palace
    of King Yervand, right on the banks of the Araks.

    "There is a program being developed with the U.N., so that some of the
    homes in the villages will have the ability to accept guests, tourists
    and diaspora Armenians and to welcome them with freshly baked lavash
    from the tonir," Mr. Avetisian said.

    The village head is convinced that Bagaran and Yervandashat represent
    a great historical value. Therefore today, when there is no longer any
    restriction or difficulty in visiting this region, which is only 100
    kilometers from Yerevan, it will no doubt be a place of great interest
    for tourists.
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