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CAIRO: Illuminating The Church Of St. Gregory The Illuminator

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  • CAIRO: Illuminating The Church Of St. Gregory The Illuminator

    ILLUMINATING THE CHURCH OF ST. GREGORY THE ILLUMINATOR

    Daily News Egypt
    April 13, 2009 Monday

    Northeast of Ramsis station, along the street of the same name,
    an unimposing gate opens into the Armenian Church of St. Gregory
    the Illuminator. If it were not enclosed, it would be impossible to
    miss the ornate exterior of the newly renovated church gleaming in
    stark contrast to the decrepit surrounding buildings, reflecting the
    Armenian minority's continued devotion to their traditional culture.

    The three-year renovation of the Church led by Nairy Hampikian,
    an architect of Armenian origin, cost LE 1 million and employed
    27 fulltime staff, expanding to 78 depending on the stage of the
    project. Funding was provided by the Parish.

    Armenian immigration to Egypt began in earnest in the 1920s, fleeing
    from the Turkish genocide. During the 1940s, 40,000 Armenians lived
    in Egypt, many of whom would later leave as a result of Nasser's
    nationalization policies. The current Armenian population in Egypt
    is estimated to number between 7,000-10,000, concentrated in Cairo
    and Alexandria.

    The Church of St. Gregory the Illuminator is one of two Armenian
    churches in Cairo and the only Armenian Apostolic Church in the
    city. The church was erected in 1928, after four years of construction,
    by prominent Armenian architect Levon Nafilian. The church embodies
    the two archetypes of classical Armenian architecture: employing
    stone materials and topped with a conical dome.

    The structure is not only beautifully renovated, but belies innovative
    building techniques employed first by Nafilian and later replicated
    by Hampikian. During Nafilian's time, stone ceased to function as the
    main building material for church structure and was replaced by more
    secure reinforced concrete.

    Nafilian retained the traditional style Armenian architecture is
    known for, but only superficially. The skeleton of the Church is
    constructed with reinforced concrete but the exterior's cladding is
    made of narrow stone blocks.

    Nearly every element of the church is made with reinforced concrete
    and painted to look like a different building material. The dome,
    viewed from inside the church, looks as if it were constructed with
    wooden paneling, but as Hampikian explained, it is reinforced concrete
    painted to resemble wood.

    The 16 imposing marble columns that caught my eye when I first arrived
    turned out to be reinforced concrete painted to look like marble. The
    illusion is complete.

    "We have no secrets from our friends," Hampikian joked as she
    catalogued materials used in the structure. She explained the
    renovation project took care to preserve the integrity of the initial
    design by employing similar building materials and techniques to the
    conservation effort.

    During the lengthy renovation stage, the church's basement was
    re-framed for increased structural support, the exterior was fortified
    with new stones, the dome was repaired, stained glass windows were
    renovated, and columns were rebuilt. The interior was cleaned and
    the paint gleams as brightly as if it were a new coat.

    The importance of the reconstructed church lies with the Armenian
    community's ties to religion. "I can't imagine the community without
    a church, it's essential," said Mariam Karapetian, wife of Armenian
    ambassador to Egypt, who was on hand to commemorate the renovation
    ceremony last week.

    "They celebrate everything, weddings, funerals. In everything, in
    every community affair, the church is involved," she explained.

    Many will have the opportunity to admire the structure's new
    appearance. "Every week, we have a liturgy... [for] about 60-100 and
    [for] big ceremonies like Easter and Christmas the church is full,"
    said Ashot Mnatsakanian, the bishop of Church of St. Gregory the
    Illuminator. In addition to prayer services, the church is open every
    day to visitors.

    The community has high hopes for the renovation. "This maybe [a] new
    wave of belief... for the young people to get closer to the church,"
    Karapetian envisioned.

    The outside grounds have also been renovated and the enclosed outer
    courtyard of greenery combined with polished exterior seems alien
    among Cairo's dilapidated grey architecture. The renovation project
    highlights the Armenian community's attempts to reinvent itself by
    preserving their heritage, using new techniques in a new world to
    strengthen their ties to the traditional.

    As a crowd gathered on the dark wooden pews of the church to
    commemorate the completion of the renovation, the sweet smell
    of incense wafted around the sanctuary and the noise of Cairo's
    ever-present cacophony fade away. A calm moment snatched from everyday
    life in the metropolis.
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