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Treasure from the Mid-East

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  • Treasure from the Mid-East

    Canberra Times (Australia)
    August 19, 2009 Wednesday
    Final Edition

    Treasure from the Mid-East


    The classic Middle Eastern Cookery by Arto der Haroutunian has been
    reprinted in hardcover by Grub Street, London.

    First published in Britain in 1982, the book has been out of print for
    more than 20 years. My much-loved and well-used paperback copy
    (published in 1984 by Pan Books) is one of my most read cookbooks.

    Arto der Haroutunian was of southern Turkish and Armenian heritage. He
    was born in Aleppo in Syria in 1940, where he spent his early
    childhood. The family moved to Britain, where he spent the rest of his
    life. He died at 47.

    Arto der Haroutunian was a multi-talented person with many
    interests. He was an architect, artist, restaurateur, translator of
    Turkish, Arab, Persian and Armenian works, and composer.

    He had a great interest in Middle Eastern food and collected recipes
    from far and wide. He wrote 12 cookbooks and all are considered
    classics. Vegetarian Dishes from the Middle East was reprinted in 2008
    by Grub Street. I can hardly wait for a copy of North African Cookery,
    reprinted this year.

    Middle Eastern Cookery is much more than a cookbook. The introduction
    gives a detailed history of the region and the people. The book
    contains an interesting collection of straightforward recipes for
    mezze, soups, salads, egg dishes, vegetable dishes, pilavs, fish and
    meat, desserts and sweets. There are no pictures or illustrations, but
    every recipe comes with a comment, a piece of history, a fable or
    song.

    I recommend this book to anyone interested in the food of the Middle
    East or who enjoy reading about food. Today's recipes, taken from the
    book, are ones I have made many times. They are ailazan a vegetable
    stew from Armenia, and tzavarov, or burghul pilav. Burghul is a staple
    food in the Middle East. It's a basic recipe which can be brightened
    with vegetables, herbs, spices, nuts or dried fruit.

    Middle Eastern Cookery, by Arto der Haroutunian (Grub Street, London,
    2008, $49.99).
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