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In Culture As In Oil, Azerbaijan's Riches Are Getting Global Attenti

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  • In Culture As In Oil, Azerbaijan's Riches Are Getting Global Attenti

    IN CULTURE AS IN OIL, AZERBAIJAN'S RICHES ARE GETTING GLOBAL ATTENTION
    by Emma Crichton-Miller

    The International Herald Tribune
    November 28, 2009 Saturday
    France

    One of the newest frontiers on contemporary art is Azerbaijan where,
    since the collapse of the Soviet Union, rich energy resources have
    given the country a rich new cultural life.

    In the ever-expanding world of contemporary art one of the newest
    frontiers is Azerbaijan where, since the collapse of the Soviet Union,
    rich energy resources have not only given the country growing clout
    in international politics, but also a rich new cultural life.

    For many years, Azeri art was dominated by one great figure - Tahir
    Salakhov, now 81.

    Despite working within the confines of the Soviet system, Mr. Salakhov
    nevertheless dared to pioneer a version of "severe realism" more
    truthful to the grim realities of workers' lives than the bright
    certainties of Socialist Realism. As head of the Soviet Art Union,
    he sheltered many dissident artists, while also championing the
    work of Western artists like Francis Bacon, Robert Rauschenberg,
    James Rosenquist and Giorgio Morandi.

    Now vice president of the Russian Arts Academy, he was this year given
    his first major retrospective in Moscow. From Feb. 18 to Feb. 25 he
    will have his first solo show in London, at Sotheby's.

    "He is an iconic figure for Azeri artists," said Nasib Piriyev,
    who this winter is directing a festival of Azerbaijani arts in London.

    Running from Nov. 25 to March 7, the Buta Festival will introduce
    Londoners to Azerbaijan's most celebrated musicians, artists, poets
    and filmmakers - including Mr. Salakhov.

    Just as many Russian oligarchs have plunged enthusiastically into
    the roles of patron and collector, funding a vigorous renaissance of
    contemporary art in Moscow and St. Petersburg, so, too, the last 10
    years have seen a renewed excitement among Azeri artists and patrons.

    Azerbaijan supported a pavilion at the 2007 Venice Biennale, following
    up last year with two exhibitions in Germany, and this year, from Nov.

    10 to Nov. 29, a display of 26 artists, "Baku Unlimited," in Basel,
    Switzerland.

    Designated an Islamic Capital of Culture this year, Baku, Azerbaijan,
    has also hosted a series of art exhibitions, including an international
    modern art biennial. And in September, a new Museum of Modern Art,
    the initiative of Mehriban Aliyeva, wife of President Ilham Aliyev,
    opened with more than 800 exhibits. There has been talk of tempting
    the Guggenheim's director-at-large, Thomas Krens, into building a
    Guggenheim in Baku.

    Many of the Azeri artists included in the Buta Festival have already
    achieved substantial recognition on the world stage, including the
    violinist Gidon Kremer; the conductor Ion Marin; the Montreal Jazz
    Festival-winning musician Shahin Novrasli; the London-based poet Nigar
    Hasan-Zadeh, and the Baku-born scriptwriter Rustam Ibragimbekov. Mr.

    Ibragimbekov, who works closely with the Russian director Nikita S.

    Mikhalkov, has film credits that include "Urga," translated into
    English as "Close to Eden," which won the Golden Lion at the Venice
    Film Festival in 1991, and "Burnt by the Sun," which won an Oscar
    in 1995.

    Newer, perhaps, to international audiences, the award-winning
    photographer Rena Effendi contributed to the recent Istanbul Biennial.

    An exhibition of Azeri artists in the church crypt of St Martin's in
    the Fields, near Trafalgar Square in London, meanwhile, will introduce
    less familiar names.

    Buta means bud, a key decorative element in Azerbaijani decorative
    art; and as the flame-decorated festival Web site suggests, this
    new budding of Azerbaijan's artists is predicated upon the great oil
    wealth that has revived Azerbaijan's position in the world since the
    breakup of the Soviet Union. Wealth from oil and gas has enabled an
    emerging generation to travel abroad for education and also to perform,
    publish or display their work.

    Among those responsible for this new cultural flowering, Mr. Piriyev,
    the scion of a prominent Azerbaijani family, is emblematic.

    Mr. Piriyev's father worked for years for the gas giant Gazprom in
    Moscow, before moving back in 2006 to Baku to found the Azerbaijan
    Methanol Co., or Azmeco. Mr. Piriyev worked as vice president of
    finance and development in the new company until September, when he
    became its chief executive.

    In three years Azmeco has grown into the country's largest
    private-sector business. Further family interests include oil and
    gas refineries in Uzbekistan, the Kyrgyz Republic and Afghanistan.

    But while Mr. Piriyev's leverage may derive from his business interests
    and wealth, his real interest, he said in an interview, has always
    been the arts.

    As a small boy, he said, he remembered Baku under Soviet rule as a
    place rich in culture, a crossroads between East and West and between
    Islam and Christendom: "Baku was a very literate town and people were
    obsessed with education and culture. There were many artists - Jews,
    Russians, Armenians - and chess schools on every corner of town,"
    he said.

    But after the collapse of the Soviet Union and particularly during the
    subsequent conflict with Armenia over Nagorno Karabakh, the artists,
    along with many others, left, leaving Baku drained of its cultural
    lifeblood.

    In Moscow, Mr. Piriyev "grew up as a Russian citizen, reading Russian
    literature and listening to Russian music."

    Yet it was in Moscow - after stints in Britain for studies and in
    Central Asia for business - that the idea for Buta germinated. Moscow
    is home to the largest community in the Azeri diaspora, "and the
    whole idea of Buta is to support Azeri art outside in the world."

    In 2005 he founded a not-for-profit organization, the Buta Art Center,
    dedicated to the promotion and celebration of Azeri culture, with a
    state-of-the-art workshop and studio in Baku supported by a publicity
    and funding structure in Moscow that channels financial support from
    Azeri businessmen and manages cultural events worldwide. Buta has
    also taken over the running of Art November in Moscow, a month-long
    festival of art and music now in its 16th year.

    For those not able to travel to Baku to witness its cultural
    renaissance, an exhibition of recent work by the photographer Rena
    Effendi, "Pipe Dreams," will run from Dec. 17 to Jan. 16 at Host
    Gallery, near the Barbican area of London. Her photographs document
    the often harsh lives of people living along the 1,700-kilometer,
    or 1,000-mile oil pipeline that runs from Baku, on the Caspian Sea,
    through Tbilisi in Georgia to Ceyhan on Turkey's Mediterranean coast.

    Just as Mr. Salakhov found inspiration for his grim realism in the
    oil workers and fisherman of Azerbaijan, so Ms. Effendi shows, with
    compassion and sharp insight, 21st-century lives still in thrall to
    black gold.
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