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Orhan Pamuk Puts Tanpinar's Tale Of Two Continents Back On The Map

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  • Orhan Pamuk Puts Tanpinar's Tale Of Two Continents Back On The Map

    ORHAN PAMUK PUTS TANPINAR'S TALE OF TWO CONTINENTS BACK ON THE MAP
    Maya Jaggi

    guardian.co.uk
    Tuesday December 1 2009

    Sixty years after it was first published, the "Turkish Ulysses"
    finally gets its due, thanks to a literary festival and museum set
    up in its honour

    Twenty-four hours in Istanbul ... the setting for Tanpinar's 'Turkish
    Ulysses'. Photograph: Carson Ganci/Corbis

    Orhan Pamuk, the 2006 Nobel literature laureate, is preparing to
    open a Museum of Innocence in Istanbul next summer, and the city has
    already seen a ripple effect from his prize. I sailed up a storm-hit
    Bosphorus with writers from 30 countries during the inaugural Istanbul
    Tanpinar literary festival in November. Run by Nermin Mollaoglu of
    the dynamic literary agency Kalem, and coinciding with Istanbul's
    book fair, this is the city's first international writers' festival,
    and aims to feed a growing interest abroad in writing from Turkey. It
    is named after a dead Turkish novelist and poet whose resuscitated
    reputation owes much to Pamuk's praise.

    Ahmet Hamdi Tanpinar described this as the "city of two continents"
    in his modernist masterpiece A Mind at Peace. Published 60 years ago
    - and only last year in an English translation from Erdag Goknar by
    Archipelago Books - the novel unfolds over 24 hours on the eve of the
    second world war, and has been tagged as the "Turkish Ulysses". Pamuk,
    himself no mean chronicler of his home town, regards it as the
    "greatest novel ever written about Istanbul".

    So why is Tanpinar, who died in 1962, so little known? The short story
    writer Ciler Ilhan told me he was "despised for years by writers who
    believed only in the Turkish republic. He was seen as old-fashioned
    - but he's groundbreaking." Born in 1901 and steeped in the Ottoman
    culture on which Kemal Ataturk's republic of 1923 turned its back,
    Tanpinar wrote a satire, The Time Regulation Institute (1961),
    about a man striving to adapt to westward-looking "modernisation". He
    ignored the 1928 drive to purge Turkish of Arabic and Persian - some
    two-thirds of the Ottoman dictionary. Another writer, Ayfer Tunc,
    believes this richness of style has contributed to an "ironic and
    deplorable" ignorance of his genius among young Turkish readers.

    The new annual festival may help change that. Largely reliant on
    private sponsorship, it was launched in style in the Ciragan Palace,
    once home to the Ottoman sultans, and now part of a luxury hotel on
    the Bosphorus. Cosier venues ranged from bookshops and cafes along
    the main shopping drag of Istiklal Caddesi, to the subterranean
    Byzantine Basilica Cistern, near the great cathedral-turned-mosque
    of Aghia Sophia. The festival was also a terminus for Word Express,
    an ambitious project in south-east Europe backed by the Wales-based
    Literature Across Frontiers. This brought 23 young writers on train
    journeys through the Balkans from Ljubljana, Bucharest and Sarajevo,
    in a move to relink areas sundered by politics and bloodshed.

    Turkish writers are among those with a keen eye on history. A recent
    novel by Can Eryumlu, Teardrops of Chios, looks back to Ottoman
    massacres against Greeks on the Aegean island of Chios in the 1820s.

    "Turks are amnesiac", says Eryumlu, who feels they were also encouraged
    to forget that "we all have different ancestors", in order to forge
    a unified state from a defeated empire after the first world war. He
    spent time on the Greek island to research the novel, and sees it
    as important to tackle topics that remain raw: "If Greeks say it,
    Turks say it's a lie. The only way is for a Turk to say it."

    Some writers sense an opening up of the past. "It's becoming easier
    to talk about history," says Yigit Bengi, a young fiction writer for
    whom Turkish nationalism is "officially created, and does not have
    deep roots". His stories draw on a more ancient and layered history,
    including Roman and Byzantine, and he is writing a novel about the
    role of Turks in the Crusades, when they were "used as slave soldiers
    on both sides - Christian and Muslim". Bengi was among 200 Turkish
    writers and academics who issued an internet apology a year ago for
    the mass killings of Ottoman Armenians in 1915.

    Fethiye Cetin's 2004 memoir My Grandmother (translated by Maureen
    Freely in 2008), about her discovery that her beloved grandmother
    was an Armenian Christian but had been adopted by a Turkish military
    officer after the massacres and forced to deny her origins, was
    a bestseller in Turkey. She was the lawyer of Turkish-Armenian
    journalist Hrank Dink, assassinated in 2007. For Cetin, whom I met
    last year, the "only way to overcome the trauma of the past is to
    talk; being silent destroys everybody". Her new book, Grandchildren,
    consists of interviews with 25 other people who have also discovered
    an Armenian grandparent, and whose family experience challenges an
    official culture of denial.

    Tanpinar's Notebooks furnish an epigraph for Pamuk's first novel
    since his Nobel, The Museum of Innocence, which will be out in the
    UK in January in Maureen Freely's superb translation. It contains a
    locator map for his museum, and a free entrance ticket. The actual
    museum, in an Ottoman-style house along a stretch of antique shops
    in hilly Cukurcuma, will hold Istanbul ephemera that Pamuk gathered
    for inspiration while writing his Proustian (or Tanpinesque) epic of
    lost love. I had a preview of the collection when the novel came out
    in Turkish, in Pamuk's nearby office apartment overlooking Cihangir
    mosque and the stretch of water where the Golden Horn inlet meets
    the Bosphorus. He told me his "museum of the everyday", which holds
    everything from ferry tickets and women's hair clips to a quince
    grinder, would have a display for each of the novel's 83 chapters. In a
    conceit that might have pleased Tanpinar - as well as writers gathered
    in his name - the mundane memorabilia are "vessels of a lost past".
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