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The Diary: Neil MacGregor

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  • The Diary: Neil MacGregor

    THE DIARY: NEIL MACGREGOR
    By Neil MacGregor

    FT.com
    January 17 2009 00:25

    On Thursday we celebrated the 250th anniversary of the opening of
    the British Museum. It was January 15 1759 when the first national
    museum in the world opened free of charge "to all studious and
    curious persons".

    It was an odd collection, the bulk of which had been formed by Hans
    Sloane, a brilliant, scholarly doctor and friend of Newton, Handel
    and Voltaire.

    Sloane's fortune was based on drinking-chocolate - sweetening bitter
    cocoa with milk and sugar and then persuading the well-to-do it
    was good for them. There has always been a market for the easy road
    to health.

    His collection - historical, botanical and anthropological, gathered
    from all over the world - was open to all serious inquirers in
    his house in Chelsea, and in 1753, parliament legislated that the
    British Museum should continue this tradition. So, unlike the great
    royal collections of the continent, this was not to be a triumphalist
    display of national wealth but the private study collection of every
    citizen. Nobody knew what the citizens would do with the knowledge
    they acquired. The Enlightenment merely assumed that knowledge was
    a public right and a civic good.

    Even today, we never know what will result from putting things on show
    at the museum. The current Babylon exhibition highlights some of the
    Mesopotamian cl ay tablets that museum curators have been deciphering
    for more than a century. Visually unprepossessing, to say the least,
    these have proved startlingly popular, generating much discussion of
    the virtues of the Babylonian number system, based on six rather than
    10. I was fascinated to hear on Radio 4 a historian of science suggest
    that this is why in most Middle Eastern religions, creation took six
    days. The seventh day would inevitably be considered inauspicious,
    and thus even the creator undertook to do no work. So apparently
    we owe our Sunday rest to Babylonian mathematics, along with the
    60-minute hour, the 12-month year and most of our calendar.

    If we occasionally struggle with 30- or 31-day months, at least we
    have only one calendar to contend with. In Iran, they easily juggle
    with three - their own ancient solar calendar, the Islamic lunar one
    and our western Gregorian system. Dauntingly, dates in a document
    are, on occasion, given all three ways. The Armenian Christians in
    Iran even have a fourth - their own church calendar, which, like the
    Greek Orthodox, is 12 days behind ours.

    So when I was in Isfahan earlier this week, post-Christmas celebrations
    were still in full swing, though January 6, their Christmas day,
    was more muted than usual this year as it coincided with Ashura,
    the day in the movable lunar Islamic calendar when the Shia faithful
    commemorate with great and tragic solemnity the=2 0martyrdom of
    Hussein, the Prophet's grandson. That the two celebrations, one of
    rejoicing, one of mourning, can coexist without tension is among the
    many surprises of life in the Islamic Republic. As is the fact that
    in the Majlis, or parliament, two seats are reserved for Armenian
    Christians, and one each for Jews and Zoroastrians.

    I was in Iran for the same reason as the Armenians - Shah Abbas I,
    a contemporary of Elizabeth I and James I, who brought Armenians to
    his new capital Isfahan so that they could promote trade in silk and
    carpets with western Europe and make Iran rich and strong. They did
    this with such success that by 1620, Iran was the pivotal power in
    the region and Isfahan one of the great crossroads of international
    exchange, probably the only place in the world where Chinese, Indian
    and European traders and envoys could meet.

    Next month, the British Museum is mounting an exhibition, Shah
    Abbas and the Remaking of Iran, and we were in Tehran to sign the
    formal agreement with the National Museum, which is lending us great
    illuminations, calligraphies, textiles and ceramics. Many of these were
    given by Shah Abbas to the big Shia shrines in Iran, an act of piety
    and a shrewd way of projecting royal power. It was also a little like
    founding a museum. For the first time, great Chinese and Iranian works
    of art were put on public view. Their impact on Iranian artists was 0D
    unexpected and profound, and can be seen in their ceramics to this day.

    As the loans are of national importance, the signing of the contract
    is very formal. It was held in the office of the vice-president of
    the Islamic Republic, with a representative of president Mahmoud
    Ahmadinejad present, and was filmed for television and official
    websites. We were welcomed with warm courtesy and humour, and
    reminded of the power of such exhibitions to foster understanding
    of each other's history and traditions. In more earnest language,
    we were invited to express to Unesco our concern at recent damage to
    the historic buildings of Gaza.

    Back in London, as well as building the installation for Shah Abbas,
    we are finishing a new Egyptian gallery, funded by the financier Sir
    Ronald Cohen (who was born in Egypt) in honour of his father. After
    nearly 10 years in conservation, the paintings from the tomb of
    Nebamun, some of the greatest paintings to survive from Ancient Egypt,
    will go back on show next week.

    Around 1400BC, Nebamun was a temple scribe and grain accountant -
    a middle-manager in our terms but one who commissioned an exceptional
    artist.

    His tomb paintings evoke the pleasures of hunting and feasting,
    music and dancing girls, which Nebamun had enjoyed in this world and
    hoped to continue enjoying in the next. They are so saucy and lively,
    so infectiously festive, that as we finalise the lighting and labe ls,
    I find myself hoping that somewhere, on that great journey through the
    Egyptian afterlife, Nebamun, who was clearly a paid-up party animal,
    is still having as much fun there as he is here in the paintings.

    British Museum Egyptologists are always in friendly, if edgy rivalry
    with their colleagues working on ancient China: which civilisation
    is older?

    Which did what first? Or better? If Egypt seems at the moment to
    be pulling ahead on the paintings front, the Chinese are about to
    play a trump card with their bronzes, which are much older (around
    1700BC) and far superior to anything comparable cast in the mere
    Mediterranean. When later generations of Chinese accidentally came
    upon these buried bronze vessels, they thought them so beautiful that
    they assumed they must be hidden gifts from the gods.

    It is not difficult to see why, and in a fortnight Londoners will be
    able to put the hype to the test.

    Shanghai, limbering up for Expo 2010, is launching Shanghai Week in
    London at the end of this month. For a few weeks, the Shanghai Museum,
    which probably has the greatest collection anywhere, is lending the
    British Museum some spectacular bronzes, a rare chance for the British
    public to explore a tradition little-represented in our museums but
    central to Chinese culture.

    I recall being deeply impressed when, on a visit to the British Museum,
    the mayor of Beijing, Guo Jinlong, accurately dated then ranked in
    importance all the bronze vessels we had on display.

    We have just begun installing the Shanghai bronzes in the Manuscript
    Saloon, beneath Sloane's portrait. He, like many 18th-century
    intellectuals, was beguiled by the idea of China, governed by emperors
    who were philosophers and connoisseurs. What would he make of this
    loan exhibition? Above all, what would he make of his collection 250
    years on, enormously expanded but still open free to the studious and
    curious? Although we have no reliable figures for our first hundred
    years, we know that since 1851 the collection has been seen by more
    than 250m people. As an intensely sociable man, who loved dinners
    and music, we can hope that even now Sloane is celebrating it all
    over a glass of wine with Nebamun.

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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