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  • Residents Of Jrapi Border Village Of Two Minds Regarding Border Open

    RESIDENTS OF JRAPI BORDER VILLAGE OF TWO MINDS REGARDING BORDER OPENING

    http://hetq.am/en/politics/jrap/
    2009/10/ 12 | 18:06

    Yeranuhi Soghoyan

    When they started to build the Akhurian Reservoir along the Armenian
    border with Turkey, the residents of the village of Jrapi joked that
    they would soon become a seafaring community and might even raise a
    naval fleet. These were mere fleeting fancies, but the decision to
    construct the reservoir was a major government project and a part
    of the overall Soviet policy to expand and strengthen the existing
    border regions with neighboring nations.

    After the reservoir was completed, six border patrol sailors from
    the Black Sea Fleet and a motor boat patrolled the waters for several
    years. Presently, patrols from the two countries monitor the waters
    from the bridge that spans the reservoir and surveillance occurs from
    the shores as well.

    The village of Jrapi, in Shirak Marz, used to be divided into two
    parts. There are historical records of both Upper and Lower Jrapi
    that date back to the 10-11th centuries. A medieval caravanserai
    and fragments of a bridge built during the prosperous early period
    of the capital city of Ani still stood up until the construction of
    the reservoir.

    Both the caravanserai and the 18th century church in Upper Jrapi were
    relocated to a new site due to reservoir construction. The ruins of
    the bridge were submerged under the artificial lake. Jrapi residents
    say that when the level of the reservoir recedes enough they can
    visit the ruins of the bridge and be enthralled by its beauty. Sadly,
    such opportunities are few and far between. They say that this only
    happens during years of severe drought when the reservoir is tapped
    to irrigate the plain of Ararat.

    There was no comprehension of a border in this village up until
    1947. The Akhurian River served as the border between Jrapi and the
    Turkish village of Kinak. At its widest, the river was only 4-5 meters
    and shallow enough to cross when water levels dropped. After the end
    of WW II, the village found itself encircled with barbwire and one
    needed a permit to enter or leave.

    Grandpa Rafik - "Carry a big stick when dealing with Turks"

    80 year-old Rafik Grigoryan doesn't have many fond memories of that
    era. He doesn't believe in making friends with the Turks. "When we
    were kids back during those years we'd go swimming in the Akhurian
    River. We'd round up the Turkish kids. They'd throw rocks at us. I
    still have the scars on my face. If it wasn't for this beard I'd show
    you," he says with a hint of anger, "Anyone who tries to make friends
    with the Turks better carry a big stick as well."

    Mr. Grigoryan has spent his whole life in the village of Jrapi and
    opposes the opening of the border. "The Turks killed my grandfather's
    brother Ghoukas in the Julfa wars and another brother up in the
    mountains here over a horse. It was a Karabakh horse and the jealous
    Turk took a fancy to it. The Turk is rotten to the core. They can
    never be trusted. You can sit down at the table and break bread with
    them but keep one eye open when you sleep in the same room. They can
    just as easily get it in their head to kill you that same night."

    Mr. Grigoryan likes to read, especially historical novels. He is now
    rereading the novel "Bayazet" by Valentin Pikul. He keeps abreast
    of current events as well. He says that he and the other elders of
    the village often get together in a friend's home to discuss the
    news of the day and exchange ideas. "My wife is very industrious
    but illiterate. One day we were discussing Karabakh in front of the
    house and saying that it was a grand victory for the Armenians. My
    wife blurted out - who needs Karabakh? I'm always telling her that
    she's crazy that those are our lands where Turks and Azeris now live
    and that one day we'll get it all back for sure," he states.

    "The Turks will understand and finally recognize the Genocide. They
    will have to return our lands or pay compensation. Just like
    the Germans did with the Jews," concludes Grandpa Rafik, "What's
    important is that our leaders be intelligent and not illiterate like
    my wife. That would be a tragic mistake."

    Others in the village are of two minds about the opening of the
    border with Turkey. There are those who recall the construction of
    the reservoir and remember that the Turkish and Armenian workers
    toiling side-by-side got along pretty well, even though the KGB kept
    fraternizing to a minimum.

    Engineer Spartak - "There are some good Turks as well"

    Spartak Mikayelyan, an engineer who's worked for many years on
    the reservoir, smiled when I asked if he wanted the border to be
    reopened. He replied that for the past 30 years the border has been
    open for him. "Once a month we meet with our Turkish colleagues
    to plan for water releases. When we're done we sit down and have a
    meal together."

    Spartak claims that they have got pretty chummy over the years and
    ask how their families are getting along. He says that the border
    guards are present at these meetings, conducted in Russian, and that
    they haven't had any problems so far. "There are some good Turks as
    well. There's a proverb that says there is no village without its
    share of dogs. Let the border reopen. I fully support it."

    Bees and pigs illegally cross the river into Turkey

    Hripsime says that her grandfather's house was on the bank of the
    Akhurian River. One day her grandmother noticed that her swarm of
    honey bees had crossed over to the other side. Fearing that she'd lose
    her precious bees and honey, the grandma picked up a few trays from
    the hive and crossed the river, winding up in the Turkish village of
    Kinak. A couple of Russian border guards soon arrived and arranged
    to take her back. Several Turkish villagers helped her transport the
    bees back.

    Villagers relate that up until the 1970's, before the reservoir was
    built, it was mostly farm animals that crossed back and forth over
    the shallow river. There's an amusing tale about a pig belonging to
    an Armenian villager that crossed over to the Turkish side. Seeing
    the religiously proscribed animal, the Turks surrounded it but didn't
    harm it. Russian border guards went and confiscated the animal but
    didn't return the porker to its owner, arguing that it might have
    been infected and needed to be slaughtered.

    Anahit Tovmasyan, who came as a bride to Jrapi, is adamantly
    opposed to the border being reopened. "Let them first recognize the
    Genocide. Only then can the border be opened. Our writers, Teryan,
    Charents or Shiraz, could give you a much better answer to that
    question," she replies. "You know, it's pretty tough to live in a
    village where your lands lay on the other sight in full view but
    you're not allowed to cross over."

    Anahit's 81 year-old mother-in-law Siranuysh sees things
    differently. Grandma Siranuysh wants the border to reopen. "Once it
    opens, I will immediately set off for Moush. Our people hail from
    around Moush. I want to go and see our village. Let them open the
    damn border so I can go and see our ancestral village before I die,"
    she says.

    On the Turkish side of the border, on two lofty mountains opposite
    Jrapi, there are two inscriptions painted in Turkish. We were able to
    photograph one that reads "ONCE VATAN", which translated means Turkish
    land or home. Local villagers translated the other large inscription as
    "He is happy who was born a Turk".

    They say that this too is politics. When the sky is clear every
    Armenian, like it or not, sees these Turkish inscriptions. Perhaps
    the Turks have thought - if the eye gets used to this, so too will
    the mind as well.
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