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Ankara: Understanding The Greeks Of Turkey

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  • Ankara: Understanding The Greeks Of Turkey

    UNDERSTANDING THE GREEKS OF TURKEY

    Today's Zaman
    14 October 2009, Wednesday

    Understanding the Greeks of Turkey - Being in Turkey, cultural and
    religious diversity is definitely an issue worth exploring. The
    colorful mix of mosques, synagogues and churches, often found
    side-by-side on a single street, probably fascinates many visitors --
    and it still says much about the multitude of different communities
    that have shaped life in the region over the past centuries.

    Being in Turkey, cultural and religious diversity is definitely
    an issue worth exploring. The colorful mix of mosques, synagogues
    and churches, often found side-by-side on a single street, probably
    fascinates many visitors -- and it still says much about the multitude
    of different communities that have shaped life in the region over
    the past centuries.

    This week, Today's Zaman wants to have a look at the Turkish Greek
    community in particular. Along with the Armenians and Jews, they
    form one of the three minorities officially recognized by today's
    Turkish government.

    But how did it actually come to that? The Greek minority in Turkey
    is a remnant of a once much larger community -- the so-named Greek
    Orthodox Church, a Christian denomination which today comprises
    five administrative jurisdictions: the Ecumenical Patriarchate
    of Constantinople (now Istanbul), the Patriarchate of Alexandria,
    the Patriarchate of Jerusalem, the Church of Cyprus and the Church
    of Greece. Within the larger communion of Orthodox churches, which
    all emerged in the early years of the Byzantine Empire, these five
    churches share a common cultural tradition and conduct their liturgy
    in Koine Greek, the original language of the New Testament.

    During the time of the Ottoman Empire, the Greek Orthodox Christians
    were recognized as a separate "millet," a kind of legally protected
    religious minority group in the empire's governmental system. They
    were free to run their own religious, cultural and educational
    institutions and thus soon came to play a significant role in the
    social, p c life of the empire. Especially in the 17th and 18th
    centuries, actually a period of apparent decline and loss of power for
    the Ottomans, the Greeks were sought after for their administrative,
    technical and financial skills. The Phanariotes especially, a class
    of wealthy Greeks of Byzantine aristocratic origin who lived in the
    Phanar (now Fener) district of Constantinople, became increasingly
    powerful as merchants, bankers and diplomats and went on to exercise
    great influence in the administration of the Ottoman Empire's Balkan
    domains in particular. It is said that a good 1,700 Greeks filled
    some of the highest offices of the Ottoman state at that time.

    The leader of the Greek community within the empire officially became
    the ecumenical patriarch of the Greek Orthodox Church, which was moved
    to the Fener district in 1586, to the Church of St. George. In fact,
    at that time the sultan regarded the ecumenical patriarch as the leader
    of all Orthodox people, Greeks or not, within the empire and thus, it
    had, indeed, considerable financial and political influence. Today,
    the patriarchate complex includes the authorization offices, the
    patriarchate library, the financial offices and the public enterprises
    of the patriarchate and the Cathedral Church of St. George. The
    church is definitely worth visiting. It is especially famous for its
    priceless artifacts and relics, which include the patriarchal throne,
    believed to date from the fifth century; three rare mosaic icons;
    a fragment of the Pillar of the Flagellation to which Jesus was tied
    and whipped; and the coffins of three saints.

    Still, the Fener district is surely one of the most fruitful places
    for those keen on discovering the Greek Orthodox past and present
    in Turkey. The Greek High School for Boys on the top of Fener hill,
    for instance, has always been an important educational institution
    to educate young Greeks for Ottoman bureaucracy and orthodox clergy
    as well. The Yoakimyon High School for Girls and Marasli Greek
    Elementary School next to the patriarchate can also be found in
    the district. Further on you will come across a couple of smaller,
    more or less well-preserved churches, and you can still find a few
    of the typical, small Greek single-family houses, recognizable by
    their finely decorated facades.

    Indeed, Greek life was flourishing under Ottoman rule, and it
    was not only restricted to Istanbul. Great numbers of Greeks also
    lived in Thrace and in Asia Minor, around the Mediterranean shore in
    particular. All together they formed an estimated 2.5 million at the
    end of the empire.

    However, something was about to change. Resentment between t er been
    uncommon and increased noticeably. The patriarch couldn't encourage
    projects of Greek renaissance and dreams of former Byzantine nobility
    in the face of the Ottoman Empire's increasing loss of power at the
    end of the 20th century.

    Already apparent in the late 19th century, political instability,
    dire economic conditions and continuing ethnic tensions prompted the
    emigration of many Greeks to other countries. Thus, by the time the
    agreement for the so-called population exchange was signed between the
    governments of Greece and Turkey in 1923 to end the Greco-Turkish War
    and to constitute the borders of the newly founded republic under the
    Treaty of Lausanne, many Greeks had already fled the country. However,
    the treaty included further exchanges and the expulsion of about
    500,000 Turks from Greece and about 1,500,000 Greeks from Asia Minor
    and eastern Thrace to Greece. An estimated 200,000 Greeks located in
    Ä°stanbul and eastern Thrace were permitted to stay.

    Experience Turkish-Greek history in Kayaköy

    Still, these events are a very complicated chapter in Turkish-Greek
    relations and they were surely linked to much suffering -- on both
    sides. Those, however, who want to dig a bit deeper into the whole
    matter may travel to a small place named Kayaköy, located a good 10
    kilometers from Fethiye on the Turkish Mediterranean coast. A ghost
    town and museum village today, its ruins still tell the story of
    its former mainly Greek inhabitants, who had to leave the place in
    the course of these historic events. Prepare yourself with the novel
    "Birds without Wings," written by Louis de Berniéres in 2004. The
    fascinating novel tells the fictive story of Kayaköy based on very
    well-researched and sensitively prepared historical background facts.

    Today, according to a report on religious minorities in Turkey
    prepared by the Turkish Foreign Ministry in December 2008, there are
    around 3,000-4,000 Greeks left in Turkey today, the majority of whom
    reside in Ä°stanbul, as well as on the two islands at the western e
    " and "Tenedos" in Greek language), and on the Princes' Islands --
    the places which had been excluded at that time from the population
    exchange. All in all, the community runs some 108 churches, 90 of
    which are open for worship, and currently has 15 elementary schools
    and six high schools in use, all of which are located in Ä°stanbul.
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