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An Azeri village in Georgia

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  • An Azeri village in Georgia

    An Azeri village in Georgia

    16.10.2009 From Karajala, Arzu Geybullayeva and Onnik Krikorian

    Our correspondents from Baku and Yerevan, Arzu Geybullayeva and Onnik
    Krikorian, visited an ethnic Azeri village in Karajala, eastern Georgia.
    A photo-reportage

    A warm welcome

    It was around two in the afternoon when Onnik Krikorian, a journalist
    and blogger based in Yerevan, and I left our hotel and headed south from
    Telavi (Georgia) to the small, nearby village of Karajala. We chose to
    visit this particular village because it is one of the many villages in
    Georgia populated by ethnic Azeri. And while our highest expectations
    were to take a few pictures and perhaps speak with some of the local
    folks, we never thought we would be so lucky as to find ourselves, just
    half an hour after our arrival, in the midst of preparations for a local
    wedding. Two complete strangers, we were greeted warmly and invited to
    the wedding ceremony that was set to take place that evening.

    Karajala

    video reportage The village of Karajala is only 15 minutes from a small
    city of Telavi (pop: 21,800) and is easy to get to. Its current
    population is about eight to ten thousand; mostly ethnic Azerbaijanis
    (though, by now, most have Georgian passports) and a few Georgian
    families. By now, most of the Azeri families have been there for several
    generations, but they still associate strongly with Azerbaijan, and also
    with Turkey. There is also the religious factor. `We are still Muslims',
    said one of the local women we met on the street.

    Traditions and language have also remained the same. `We would never let
    our daughter marry a Georgian boy, or vice versa', said another local
    woman from the village, citing religion as the reason. Marriage age is
    set quite early for both girls and boys - between 15 and 20 - reminding
    me of other villages in Azerbaijan I have visited before. But not
    everyone wants this. The brides' younger, 15-year-old sister said she
    didn't want to get married so early. She is not the only one. Rasim, the
    grandson of the village chief, currently age 16, wants to continue his
    education in Tbilisi where he would like to attend medical school.

    All of the villagers spoke Azerbaijani and Georgian. In fact, I had a
    hard time understanding some of it in spite of the fact that I am
    Azerbaijani myself. The main language spoken by Azerbaijanis in Karajala
    is a local dialect influenced by Georgian, but it was still easy to
    communicate most of the time. The younger generation of villagers used
    the Azerbaijani and Georgian languages more interchangeably than their
    elders did.

    A majority of the village population earns a living through trade.
    According to the Ilyas, the ex-principal of the local school, `Karajala
    is the village with the highest tax payments because people do trade
    here and we have a higher income than the other 24 villages in Telavi.'
    His only complaint concerned the roads. Indeed, while driving to the
    village, we saw roads in poor condition. Roads inside the village were
    also in poor condition. And water, too, seemed to present another
    infrastructural problem. There is no constant, running water source
    apart from open water spigots on the main streets.

    We also witnessed residents whose living conditions weren't good. A man
    called Agali Sardarov, 69, wanted to show us his house where he lived
    with his wife. The one-story house looked run-down. On the inside, Agali
    showed us the uneven, holey floors that his wife had covered with
    blankets. The place was damp and, inside, one felt weighted down. `Two
    months ago, a young woman came to my house, looked around, took some
    notes, and after that, the little assistance of 54 Lari [about 20 Euro]
    that I had been receiving stopped coming in' said Agali, with tears in
    his eyes. We left his house with mixed emotions of despair, sadness and
    uneasiness. However, the words of comfort we received from the ex-
    school principal gave us hope: `we are united and help each other no
    matter what happens'.

    Back to preparations

    According to Azerbaijani traditions, weddings consist of two ceremonies:
    first, the `girl's wedding' and then, the `boy's wedding'. The girl's
    wedding is usually much smaller with fewer guests, mostly close friends
    and family. The boy's wedding comes second and, traditionally, has been
    the occasion when the bride dons a white dress and a much larger group
    of guests arrives. Nowadays, the two sides prefer to have just one
    wedding and rarely hold two different weddings.

    But that didn't seem to be the case in Karajala. The wedding we were
    invited to was the girl's wedding. By the time we got back to the
    village for the boy's wedding, there were already around three hundred
    guests there. We were greeted with much warmth and were immediately
    invited to sit at a table and enjoy the feast. Even though it rained all
    day that day and there were big puddles in the yard, people were dancing
    and enjoying the occasion. `It's too bad it rained, otherwise it would
    have been totally different' said one of the bride's relatives.

    Impressions

    Returning to the hotel from the village, I felt exhilarated. Not only
    did the visit exceed my expectations, but I also came back with many
    stories to tell. After all, it is not everyday that you get to
    experience something so colorful and become, if only temporarily, a part
    of an ethnic community.

    ---
    http://www.osservatoriobalcani.org /article/articleview/11980/1/404/

    From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
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