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  • CAIRO: An Alexandrian Trio

    AN ALEXANDRIAN TRIO

    Al-Ahram Weekly
    http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/2010/981/cu1.htm
    Jan 14 2010
    Egypt

    They simulate waves but what do waves correspond to, asks Gamal Nkrumah

    Alfons Louis, Said Badr and Sarkis Tossoonian wandered wistfully
    into Safar Khan with an extraordinary milieu of connected memories
    -- all of their seaside city. Alexandria was always as secular as it
    was sacred. Above all, the three artists evoke Alexandria in August,
    with a hint of October. Strange, since we are in midwinter. As if
    worn away by weather, these works recall a bygone age.

    In this climate the arts, whether religious or irreverent,
    flourished uneasily side by side, narrating a compelling story about
    a theology-obsessed schizophrenic cosmopolitanism. A Coptic Christian,
    a Muslim and an ethnic Armenian, Louis, Badr and Tossoonian express the
    aesthetic of Alexandria in their respective personal fashions. They
    delve into such multi- layered and elusive meanings of the city's
    historical cultural outpourings and confront the issue of urban
    multi-identities from radically different perspectives, using distinct
    mediums and notions of self-expression. Their exhibition highlights
    their Alexandrian roots, but in a manner not immediately perceptible.

    Alexandria is honeycombed with catacombs, cisterns and underground
    chambers, and the curiously attractive works of Louis look like
    something snatched out of the dungeons beneath the city, except that
    they are recovered from the depths of the sea like some denizens of
    the deep.

    Sun drenched scratched surfaces with fairy-tale hares and gazelles
    prancing past Coptic-like iconic figures look like they have been
    hollowed out of some ancient rock, or dug out of the crypt of some
    long deceased Alexandrian Greek nobles, with scattered pieces of
    potsherds and pockmarked sea salvaged timber. Inscriptions are scarce,
    but Pharaonic oddments are in abundance.

    The Copt tells the tale of his extraordinary seaside hometown in
    unpretentious, carefully weighed logs siphoned from the Mediterranean.

    Expect to see no rudimentary paintings of the sea. However, he pulls
    no punches when he tells the story of his many-layered port city. His
    works are a carefully crafted recreation of Alexandria, but without
    the glamour. There is something about his work that ultimately evades
    interpretation. His icons give the impression of being hauled up some
    secret shaft down which the mortal remains of individuals long gone
    have been deposited in the Netherworld. Yet there is something bright
    and cheery about these works built of planks.

    Rain-sodden scenes are tangible only in the rough texture of the
    stylistically hewn damp wood. The fragments of metal scattered
    here and there re-enforce the sodden lot. There is something almost
    imperceptible that gives the impression of dankness even though there
    isn't a trace of moisture.

    Images of a cosmopolitan Alexandria have long since faded. Instead the
    trio treat visitors to the exhibition to a miscellaneous collection
    of hypnotically powerful works with a classical quality evocative of
    this particular Mediterranean port city's past.

    However, the Alexandrian threesome offer an enticing hint of the
    city's original magnificence, and of a darker aspect of its doctrinal
    sophistication. Was not the newly converted Christian Alexandria
    that cruelly culled its pagans -- including the philosopher-sorceress
    Hepatia? She was after all a mere mathematician who happened to infuse
    her students with a vitality and warmth that none of her contemporaries
    matched. For this, she had to be put down, publicly executed.

    I searched Tossoonian's figurines for reminders of Hepatia. Yes,
    the features of his belles were Romanesque. Snake- haired Medusas of
    Greek mythology stare out into space past your gaze. These bronze
    figures seem to have been rescued from the Serapeum. The original
    golden plaques are polished bronze, of course, and are as shiny and
    smooth as mirrors. Others smack of Ptolemaic sphinxes and most sport
    aquiline Roman noses.

    Such not too subtle gems are more than a leitmotif of an exhibition
    mounted in commemoration of Alexandria's past cosmopolitanism. The
    exhibition barely alludes to the multi- religious, multi-cultural
    background of the artists. The three artists' works are not framed
    in the context of a city that has become a magnet for peasants from
    the Delta and beyond. Tossoonian is the only one whose sculptures
    feature human figures. Even so, his women are more reminiscent of
    some Greco-Roman Madonna than mere country maidens.

    Tossoonian's sculptures resemble the works of the late Swiss painter
    and sculptor Alberto Giacometti. Art connoisseurs glimpse something of
    the ancient -- Celtic, Greco- Roman or Egyptian? Unlike the statues
    of the ancients, Tossoonian's works stand upright, there is nothing
    of the fallen visages of long dead pharaohs. There is no attempt,
    either, to bring them back to life. Indeed, the bronze is designed
    to feign the listless and lifeless.

    And back to Badr. The Muslim, presumably on religious grounds, eschews
    the human figure. Rosetta's fortunes have historically been inversely
    linked with that of Alexandria. And yet the smaller city is only a
    stone's throw away from its far more buxom older sister. But Badr
    isn't in the least interested in the treasures of Rosetta. He pays no
    attention to the medieval rival to Alexandria with its streets studded
    with mashrabeyas, wooden latticework windows, and the lakes engulfing
    the seaport lined with tall reeds. Such a typically Rosetta scene,
    Badr leaves for Louis to make the most of.

    The latter uses intricate wooden paneling sparsely, but the timber
    he uses in profusion and with such passion that his works appear
    to leap out of some ancient history book. Louis fuses medieval and
    ancient, Muslim and Coptic, Ptolemaic and Greco-Roman symbols and
    signs with ingenious creativity. However, it is Badr who makes the
    most of arguably the most significant find of Egyptology. Neither
    a multilingual stele, nor a decree from Ptolomy V, a tax amnesty to
    temple priests, Badr's are stuffed with good lines, except that most
    are unreadable. But Badr isn't focussed on the content of the Rosetta
    Stone, only on the inspiration he so obviously derives from the slab
    of black basalt.

    Lines rippling across granite. Arabic script mutates into hieroglyphs
    and then back into Arabic calligraphy. It is all extraordinarily
    prescient. The shapes of the stone themselves are designed to shed
    light on the glowing illuminations that capture Alexandria at different
    times of the day and in different seasons. These are apt descriptions
    for Badr's renditions of the Rosetta Stone. His take on that curious
    object defies definition.

    Badr's letters are like pictograms. Some are in indecipherable script,
    a make-believe language, others in Arabic. Pencilled on polished
    surfaces, they so nearly resemble the Rosetta Stone, except they don't.

    The deciphering of hieroglyphs in 1824 by Jean-Francois Champollion of
    France enabled the world to understand the secrets of ancient Egypt,
    and opened up the mysteries of the Pharaohs. Badr applies himself to
    the tremendous task of reinterpreting Alexandrian history through
    the irregular shapes and weird writings engraved on his imitations
    of the Rosetta Stone.

    Black basalt is a hardy stone not easily worked or tamed. The Safar
    Khan gallery is strewn with huge blocks of stone, timber and bronze
    -- like a show of excavations in some undisclosed dig somewhere near
    Alexandria. The cosmopolitan city of yesteryear is the inspiration.

    There is no inkling of the bustling contemporary port. Instead there
    are numerous vestiges of the past.

    Does an underlying constituency hold their disparate strands together?

    A master of the right angle and the perfect circle, Badr reproduces
    the curiously cut blocks of black basalt in a variety of shapes and
    sizes, all paying tribute to the original.

    The works of the other two artists are somewhat more inconstant, but
    only slightly so. Louis's pieces are easily identifiable. There are
    clear changes of visual texture. Yet the dominant theme remains the
    same. They are decorated with strange images, some faintly resembling
    the ushatbi of the ancients. The Pharaonic influence is greatest;
    however, the Fatimid, Mamluk, Ottoman and other Islamic influences
    abound. Rabbits and antelopes hop and skip in total abandon.

    His etchings aspire to the primitive. Colourless elegance yields to
    the saturated earthy hues and icons of his imagination albeit adorned
    in muted tones.

    The creamy surface gets thicker and more clotted; the decorative work
    almost incomplete. The insets and juxtapositions depict multiple
    phases of Alexandrian, and Egyptian, history. Crafting an ageless
    portrait is a fine art. Louis excels at adding the finer details
    without embarking on the unqualified finish. He is neither fearful of
    exploring the inner meanings of items found in plundered Pharaonic
    tombs, nor on the age-old controversies that historically bedeviled
    his hometown. Alexander the Great, the city's founder, and Cleopatra
    V, the last Ptolomaic queen of Egypt, and probably Alexandria's
    most famous daughter, are hinted at in the works of Tossoonian, but
    only the faintest of hints. Do not look for such famous cosmopolitan
    Alexandrian landmarks as the Cecil Hotel or the Constantine Cavafy
    Museum. Neither does the spirit of Lawrence Durrell hover over the
    works of these three Alexandrian artists.

    Instead, pieces of Pompey's pillar, the Fortress of Qaitbey are seen
    and understood in touches by Tossoonian, feelings divulged by Louis,
    and variegated duplications by Badr. They are, like the exhibition
    itself, running a fine line between memory, the memorable and the
    immemorial. Alexandria has profoundly influenced Western thought and
    philosophy. The remains are the relics from its rich past. Carved
    tombstone panels? An artistic tribute to the ancients.
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