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  • Georgia And Russia Reopen Border

    GEORGIA AND RUSSIA REOPEN BORDER

    http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/insi ght/articles/eav030110.shtml
    3/01/10

    A year and a half after waging war, Georgia and Russia grudgingly
    reopened their land border on March 1, despite ongoing acrimony
    over Russia's failure to observe the terms of the two countries'
    2008 cease-fire agreement.

    The Dariali border crossing, perched 1,700 meters high in the
    Caucasus Mountains between Georgia and the Russian republic of
    North Ossetia, is the only direct land route left between Russia
    and Georgian-controlled territory. Russia closed the border in 2006
    amid growing tensions with Western-leaning Tbilisi that spiraled into
    war two years later. [For details, see the Eurasia Insight archive.]
    http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/in sight/articles/eav082108.shtml

    What incentive prompted the decision to reopen the crossing,
    also known as Zemo (Upper) Larsi, remains unknown. The
    Georgian government and pro-government media have largely
    downplayed the re-opening, attributing Tbilisi's willingness to
    reestablish land communications with Russia to its desire to help
    neighbor Armenia, which depends on exports to Russia for much
    of its revenue. [For details, see the Eurasia Insight archive.]
    http://www.eurasianet.org/departments/in sight/articles/eav091008b.shtml
    Armenian President Serzh Sargsyan met with Georgian President Mikheil
    Saakashvili over the weekend in the Black Sea port city of Batumi
    for talks that reportedly included discussion of the border decision.

    But despite Armenia's support for the decision, no travelers were on
    hand to mark the re-opening, which officially occurred at 7am. As
    the day wore on, not a single traveler attempted to cross into
    either country.

    One Georgian border guard, standing against a dramatic backdrop of
    snow-capped mountains, scoffed at the decision to reopen the Dariali
    crossing. The checkpoint stands at the top of the Georgian Military
    Highway, an entrance route into Georgia for invading Russian armies
    in both the 19th and 20th centuries.

    "So they [the Russians] dropped bombs, cut the country into pieces,
    kicked people out of their homes, and now they are saying 'Let's open
    the borders, let's trade, what's a little war between old friends?'"
    the guard bristled. "If you let them get away with it today, they
    will invade Tbilisi tomorrow."

    In a February 27 statement, Deputy Foreign Minister Alexander Nalbandov
    claimed that "Georgia does not expect any special economic or political
    benefit" from the border's reopening.

    Residents of hamlets scattered along the vertigo-inducing highway
    that snakes up to Dariali expressed greater optimism, however. Many
    locals say they are looking forward to crossing into North Ossetia for
    trade, or to visit relatives. From the crossing point, Vladikavkaz,
    the North Ossetian capital, is easier reach than Tbilisi, roughly a
    three-hour drive to the south, they say.

    "We have good trade relations with the Ossetians," said Lamara
    Zautashvili, who runs a roadside grocery stand in the Georgian town
    of Stepantsminda. "They would come buy stuff here, and we would go
    to buy flour, milk and whatnot there. ? I sure hope it all comes back."

    An hour south from Dariali, at the popular Georgian ski resort Gudauri,
    hoteliers voiced hope that a reopened border could induce Russian
    tourists to return. "[Y]ou can't shut the door in the face of your
    neighbor and be on the phone with a faraway friend all the time,"
    one guesthouse owner, who gave her name as Marina, said in reference
    to Russia and the United States, respectively. Marina said some 40
    North Ossetians - "all lovely people" - used to travel to her hotel
    for skiing before the border closed three and a half years ago. "Now
    I have none."

    One diehard snowboarder, Moscow lawyer Natalia Kirilenko, has already
    opted to return to Gudauri, although not via Dariali. "I am not going
    to give up all of this just because [Russian Prime Minister Vladimir]
    Putin and Saakashvili hate each other," Kirilenko said.

    Both Russian and Georgian citizens require visas before they can
    travel through Dariali into Georgia or Russia, said Giorgi Gegechkori,
    head of the Mtskheta-Tianeti District Police, the regional police
    force. The checkpoint, which will operate from 6am until 10pm daily,
    features an American-renovated facility that can handle 500 "light
    vehicles" per day, he added.

    Differences of opinion already exist over how to handle any residents
    of breakaway Abkhazia and South Ossetia who wish to cross the border.

    Russian officials said on March 1 that such residents, most of whom
    carry Russian passports, can cross into Russia at Dariali without
    visas. Russia recognizes the two territories as independent states.

    But Georgian Deputy Foreign Minister Nino Kalandadze told a news
    conference that Abkhaz and South Ossetians - whom Tbilisi considers
    citizens of Georgia -- will not be allowed through the checkpoint
    unless they hold Russian visas.

    Such travelers, however, are likely to be few in number. Both Abkhazia
    and South Ossetia have border crossings with Russia that are outside
    Tbilisi's control.

    Editor's Note: Giorgi Lomsadze is a freelance reporter based in
    Tbilisi. Temo Bardzimashvili is a freelance photojournalist also
    based in Tbilisi.
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