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Esfahan-Paris of the East
By Devanshi Mody
http://www.sundaytimes.lk/110828/Plus/plus_06.html
Sunday August 28, 2011
Persians say, Esfahan, Nesf-e Jahan: Esfahan is half the world. Find a
flying carpet. And get yourself to one of the most breathtaking cities
on earth. From atop any minaret view verdant oases offset by brilliant
blue skies and violet-hued mountains.
As old as Iran itself, Esfahan's history dates back to the 5th century
BC. In 1598, the Safavids made Esfahan Iran's capital, grooming it
into one of the world's most spectacular cities. Elegance personified
is Esfahan, called Paris of the East. To Parisians, Persians epitomise
refinement and Paris's most exotic pastry is called Esfahan, such is
Parisian fascination with Persians.
Imam Mosque: Majestic turquoise dome, graceful arches
The most glorious manifestations of Persian art and architecture
gravitate around the Safavid Imam Square and its environs, a veritable
living museum.
Seven times larger than Venice's San Marco and smaller only than
Beijing's Tianaman Square, Imam Square is courted by stupendous
structures.
The ensemble of turquoise domes, soaring minarets, graceful arches,
flowing arabesques, glowing mosaics, opalescent enamelled bricks and
myriad other marvels enchant. Architectural poetry flirts with the
Persian verses and Kufic or Tulth inscriptions that adorn monuments.
Imam Square's sumptuous swards were once the regal arena for shooting,
riding and polo. Today fountains and elaborately laid flowerbeds stud
the expanse whilst quaint horse-drawn carriages process past centuries
of heritage immortalised in stone. An air of antiquated elegance from
more gallant times hangs like a tapestry. Like the locals, luxuriate
on the square's lawns relishing fab saffron ice cream and Gaz, the
celebrated Esfahani nougat made of rosewater, almond, pistachio and
exotic spices.
On the Square's west, the lofty six-storey Ali Qapu Palace,
embellished by celebrated miniaturist Reza `Abbasi,' stands testimony
to the lavish era of the Shahs. Shah Abbas II's Music Hall mesmerises
with its 18 columns, exquisitely carved ceiling, swooping vaults,
frisky fountains and a famous copper pond.
Obey the summons of the imperious cupola, flanked by towering
minarets, of Imam Mosque.
Famous Tabrizi calligrapher Abd al-Baghi's works adorn the cupola and
main avian of this four avian structure. Silver-plated carved doors
open into a serene sanctuary. Esfahani youth come to play games in the
courtyard, read under iridescent beehive-like carved stalactites or
picnic in the haven of arbours. Schoolchildren descend en masse upon
us with a hundred million questions charmingly asked in impeccable
English whilst someone else explains the mosque's asymmetric
architecture: it is imperfect because only God is perfect. Unlike in
most tourist haunts of the region no monetary recompense is sought for
the fascinating but unsolicited piece of information. Thank God!
Contrasting with Imam Mosque are neighbouring Sheikh Loftollah
mosque's harmonious proportions. This masterpiece took 17 years to
complete. What superb Mehrab, marble cornices, cunning latticework,
striking inscriptions by Ali-Reza Abbasi and colour scheme of
outstanding beauty!
Nip across a garden to Chehel-Sotun Palace. Its 40 columns shimmer
reflected in a fountain that extends from the palace gates up to the
avian with its beautifully painted wood-panelled ceiling, intricately
carved doors, stucco decorations and extraordinary frescoes. The
gilded and mirrored palace houses chivalrous paintings of battle,
court and pastoral scenes.
Pass the Hasht Behesht Palace (now a luxury hotel), famed for its
magnificent marble slabs and décor, to the Abassi, a 300-year-old
caravansary, the world's oldest, built by Shah Abbas I to host his
mother and royal guests.
In the Old Quarter stands the 900-year-old Jame Mosque, the city's
oldest and most diversified monument combining Dailamite, Seljuquid
and Mogul art. The earth cupola, according to its Kufic inscription,
dates to 1088 AD. If the Uljaitu Mosque's custodian likes you, he'll
grant a private view of the legendary Kufic inscription-carved stucco
Mehrab with its plasterwork, a 1310 AD masterpiece inaccessible to
tourists.
Across the city-traversing Zayandehrud River lie the Jewish and
Armenian Quarters, reminding that Muslims, Christians and Jews have
co-habited Esfahan for centuries. An impressive belfry in Armenian
Jolfa recommends visiting Vank Cathedral's gilded painting-adorned
interiors and mini museum. An Armenian lady invites us back to her
boutique. Très chic! `One lives well in Esfahan,' she beams.
The Esfahani predilection for fine things is apparent in the swirl of
sophistication around Imam Square and Chahar Bagh whose smart
boutiques are patronised by fashion-conscious women.
Even Esfahan's souks and bazaars, unlike those elsewhere in the
Orient, exude elegance, from the beautiful vaulted Safavid Bazaar-E
Honar to Qaisariyeh Bazaar, (with a superb mural adorning its great
portal), which Alexander Pope declared `the handsomest bazaar of all.'
Lose yourself in labyrinthine galleries of expertly handcrafted
antiques, jewellery, silverwork, enamelwork, miniatures, carpets,
qalamkar, textiles, embroidery... Observe master metal craftsmen
meticulously engrave silver, brass, copper; miniaturists, working with
a single hair of a brush, paint camel bone, ivory or Khatam-Kari
jewellery boxes, cigarette cases, frames; carpet-makers weave
sweepingly floral, uniquely Esfahani designs, which sometimes take
years to complete.
Impressive too is Imam Square's fruit market. And always follow the
fragrance of freshly baked bread, as one does in Iran, for it
unfailingly leads to a delightful bakery. Indeed, one of the most
delicious aspects of sojourning in Iran is treating oneself to the
multifarious breads hot out of the oven.
Esfahan is Iran's gastronomic capital. Feast on gorgeous cuisine
garnished with exotic sauces like pomegranate and walnut served with
saffron rice. The famous Sheherazade restaurant is a must-do. But
never resist being hijacked to magnificent villas for suppers fit for
a Shah with Byron and Shelley recitals thrown in as sides. Persian
refinement!
Ah, Esfahani bridges... They have long lured visitors with their
exceptional architecture. Pol-e Shahrestan, Esfahan's most ancient
bridge from Sassanid times, stands on rocks of the riverbed. Si-O-Se
Pol's 33 spectacular arches reflect ravishingly in the river.
The manicured riverbanks with smart squares and high-rise skyline
recall any ultra-modern city. But the oriental bridges remind that
one's not in Europe. The 17th century Khaju Bridge with its arched
arcades and tiled alcoves is Esfahan's most arresting. On balmy
evenings the bridge's terraces throb with couples enjoying the
sensually lit sequence of bridges.
Paris, the world's most romantic place? Courtly love flourishes in
Esfahan. Esfahan is famed for its rose bushes. But approach them not-
you'll inevitably tread over the latticed feet of lovebirds chirping
sweet nothings...
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
By Devanshi Mody
http://www.sundaytimes.lk/110828/Plus/plus_06.html
Sunday August 28, 2011
Persians say, Esfahan, Nesf-e Jahan: Esfahan is half the world. Find a
flying carpet. And get yourself to one of the most breathtaking cities
on earth. From atop any minaret view verdant oases offset by brilliant
blue skies and violet-hued mountains.
As old as Iran itself, Esfahan's history dates back to the 5th century
BC. In 1598, the Safavids made Esfahan Iran's capital, grooming it
into one of the world's most spectacular cities. Elegance personified
is Esfahan, called Paris of the East. To Parisians, Persians epitomise
refinement and Paris's most exotic pastry is called Esfahan, such is
Parisian fascination with Persians.
Imam Mosque: Majestic turquoise dome, graceful arches
The most glorious manifestations of Persian art and architecture
gravitate around the Safavid Imam Square and its environs, a veritable
living museum.
Seven times larger than Venice's San Marco and smaller only than
Beijing's Tianaman Square, Imam Square is courted by stupendous
structures.
The ensemble of turquoise domes, soaring minarets, graceful arches,
flowing arabesques, glowing mosaics, opalescent enamelled bricks and
myriad other marvels enchant. Architectural poetry flirts with the
Persian verses and Kufic or Tulth inscriptions that adorn monuments.
Imam Square's sumptuous swards were once the regal arena for shooting,
riding and polo. Today fountains and elaborately laid flowerbeds stud
the expanse whilst quaint horse-drawn carriages process past centuries
of heritage immortalised in stone. An air of antiquated elegance from
more gallant times hangs like a tapestry. Like the locals, luxuriate
on the square's lawns relishing fab saffron ice cream and Gaz, the
celebrated Esfahani nougat made of rosewater, almond, pistachio and
exotic spices.
On the Square's west, the lofty six-storey Ali Qapu Palace,
embellished by celebrated miniaturist Reza `Abbasi,' stands testimony
to the lavish era of the Shahs. Shah Abbas II's Music Hall mesmerises
with its 18 columns, exquisitely carved ceiling, swooping vaults,
frisky fountains and a famous copper pond.
Obey the summons of the imperious cupola, flanked by towering
minarets, of Imam Mosque.
Famous Tabrizi calligrapher Abd al-Baghi's works adorn the cupola and
main avian of this four avian structure. Silver-plated carved doors
open into a serene sanctuary. Esfahani youth come to play games in the
courtyard, read under iridescent beehive-like carved stalactites or
picnic in the haven of arbours. Schoolchildren descend en masse upon
us with a hundred million questions charmingly asked in impeccable
English whilst someone else explains the mosque's asymmetric
architecture: it is imperfect because only God is perfect. Unlike in
most tourist haunts of the region no monetary recompense is sought for
the fascinating but unsolicited piece of information. Thank God!
Contrasting with Imam Mosque are neighbouring Sheikh Loftollah
mosque's harmonious proportions. This masterpiece took 17 years to
complete. What superb Mehrab, marble cornices, cunning latticework,
striking inscriptions by Ali-Reza Abbasi and colour scheme of
outstanding beauty!
Nip across a garden to Chehel-Sotun Palace. Its 40 columns shimmer
reflected in a fountain that extends from the palace gates up to the
avian with its beautifully painted wood-panelled ceiling, intricately
carved doors, stucco decorations and extraordinary frescoes. The
gilded and mirrored palace houses chivalrous paintings of battle,
court and pastoral scenes.
Pass the Hasht Behesht Palace (now a luxury hotel), famed for its
magnificent marble slabs and décor, to the Abassi, a 300-year-old
caravansary, the world's oldest, built by Shah Abbas I to host his
mother and royal guests.
In the Old Quarter stands the 900-year-old Jame Mosque, the city's
oldest and most diversified monument combining Dailamite, Seljuquid
and Mogul art. The earth cupola, according to its Kufic inscription,
dates to 1088 AD. If the Uljaitu Mosque's custodian likes you, he'll
grant a private view of the legendary Kufic inscription-carved stucco
Mehrab with its plasterwork, a 1310 AD masterpiece inaccessible to
tourists.
Across the city-traversing Zayandehrud River lie the Jewish and
Armenian Quarters, reminding that Muslims, Christians and Jews have
co-habited Esfahan for centuries. An impressive belfry in Armenian
Jolfa recommends visiting Vank Cathedral's gilded painting-adorned
interiors and mini museum. An Armenian lady invites us back to her
boutique. Très chic! `One lives well in Esfahan,' she beams.
The Esfahani predilection for fine things is apparent in the swirl of
sophistication around Imam Square and Chahar Bagh whose smart
boutiques are patronised by fashion-conscious women.
Even Esfahan's souks and bazaars, unlike those elsewhere in the
Orient, exude elegance, from the beautiful vaulted Safavid Bazaar-E
Honar to Qaisariyeh Bazaar, (with a superb mural adorning its great
portal), which Alexander Pope declared `the handsomest bazaar of all.'
Lose yourself in labyrinthine galleries of expertly handcrafted
antiques, jewellery, silverwork, enamelwork, miniatures, carpets,
qalamkar, textiles, embroidery... Observe master metal craftsmen
meticulously engrave silver, brass, copper; miniaturists, working with
a single hair of a brush, paint camel bone, ivory or Khatam-Kari
jewellery boxes, cigarette cases, frames; carpet-makers weave
sweepingly floral, uniquely Esfahani designs, which sometimes take
years to complete.
Impressive too is Imam Square's fruit market. And always follow the
fragrance of freshly baked bread, as one does in Iran, for it
unfailingly leads to a delightful bakery. Indeed, one of the most
delicious aspects of sojourning in Iran is treating oneself to the
multifarious breads hot out of the oven.
Esfahan is Iran's gastronomic capital. Feast on gorgeous cuisine
garnished with exotic sauces like pomegranate and walnut served with
saffron rice. The famous Sheherazade restaurant is a must-do. But
never resist being hijacked to magnificent villas for suppers fit for
a Shah with Byron and Shelley recitals thrown in as sides. Persian
refinement!
Ah, Esfahani bridges... They have long lured visitors with their
exceptional architecture. Pol-e Shahrestan, Esfahan's most ancient
bridge from Sassanid times, stands on rocks of the riverbed. Si-O-Se
Pol's 33 spectacular arches reflect ravishingly in the river.
The manicured riverbanks with smart squares and high-rise skyline
recall any ultra-modern city. But the oriental bridges remind that
one's not in Europe. The 17th century Khaju Bridge with its arched
arcades and tiled alcoves is Esfahan's most arresting. On balmy
evenings the bridge's terraces throb with couples enjoying the
sensually lit sequence of bridges.
Paris, the world's most romantic place? Courtly love flourishes in
Esfahan. Esfahan is famed for its rose bushes. But approach them not-
you'll inevitably tread over the latticed feet of lovebirds chirping
sweet nothings...
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress