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TIME: Georgia Wants Strategic Alliances In Russia's Backyard

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  • TIME: Georgia Wants Strategic Alliances In Russia's Backyard

    GEORGIA WANTS STRATEGIC ALLIANCES IN RUSSIA'S BACKYARD
    By Nathan Thornburgh

    TIME Magazine
    http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,2091392,00.html
    Monday, Sept. 12, 2011

    Three years after a war that was essentially a failure of friendship
    -- his far-off allies in Washington had not warred alongside him
    against Russia and they had not prevented the loss of huge amounts
    of Georgian territory -- President Mikheil Saakashvili wants to show
    off some new friends.

    Here they are: a convivial ring of summer campers in Anaklia on the
    Black Sea, some still dripping wet from the pool, gathered around
    a bonfire. Saakashvili sits among them and gives a speech, but he's
    not just talking to them. He's talking to the cameras recording the
    speech for national broadcast. He's talking to me, certainly, and
    therefore to you. He wants us all to know about the kids in this camp,
    how they are a group of teenagers made up of ethnic Georgians, ethnic
    Armenians and ethnic Azeris. The camp is called Tolerance. They play
    volleyball there and learn one another's songs and wave the Georgian
    flag. The idea is that they want peace, not like the Russian troops
    who patrol the border of breakaway Abkhazia just 5 km away. "What
    you see here is an answer to the occupation," Saakashvili says. "We
    are making history."

    Making history has always come easily to Saakashvili. First elected in
    2004, he arrived as a democrat in a region of despots. While everyone
    else knelt before the Kremlin, he taunted Russia's then President,
    Vladimir Putin. He took Western political stagecraft with him: in
    Anaklia, his personal film crew is shooting his speech in HD as his
    official photographer, a slim man with an improbably long camera lens,
    clicks away. More important than American-style image control, though,
    Saakashvili took American interests into the heart of a country that
    had been contested by closer powers -- Persians, Turks, Russians --
    since the time of Herodotus. But these days, now that membership in
    NATO and the European Union is a distant dream, his prospects rely
    on the good graces of his non-Russian neighbors. He needs them to
    trade with Georgia, to be tourists in Georgia, and should war break
    out again, to at least not take Russia's side. With his final term
    ending in 2013, and tensions again rising between Georgia and Russia,
    the survival of Saakashvili's legacy, and perhaps his country, may
    well depend on it.

    (See photos of the aftermath of the Georgian conflict.)

    A Charm Offensive Georgia is separated from the majority of its
    neighbors by the Caucasus, home to some of the highest mountains
    in Europe. In early summer, the Georgian Border Police, 2,700
    troops who guard the mountaintops, took me and photographer Yuri
    Kozyrev on its troop-rotation flights: stalwart Russian-made MI-8
    helicopters flying from peak to peak, sometimes half-blind through
    clouds, landing on narrow outcrops next to outposts that seemed to
    be policing the roof of the world. It's a humbling landscape, but
    the remoteness and isolation of those mountains also gave rise to a
    huge diversity of clashing tribes, ethnic groups and interests. The
    Chechens are suspicious of the Ingush, the Georgians mock the Avars,
    the Armenians and Azeris share a rich mutual hatred. Saakashvili now
    wants to be friends with them all.

    The Russians, however, are experts at playing these groups off one
    another. The Russian republic of Chechnya in the North Caucasus
    fought two unsuccessful wars of secession against Russia, but the
    Chechen people also warred over the centuries with Georgia, which
    had its own imperious moments. Now, especially after Kremlin-backed
    strongman Ramzan Kadyrov took over in 2007, Chechnya is a potential
    menace to Georgia again. When the Russian military poured into South
    Ossetia during the five-day war of 2008, for example, the most feared
    units came from a war-hardened Chechen battalion.

    (See pictures of the Russian-Georgian war.)

    So Saakashvili has launched his own charm offensive to win over the
    people of Chechnya and neighboring republics. Since last October,
    residents of the Russian North Caucasus can pass through a northern
    border crossing with Georgia without a visa -- a unilateral move that
    infuriated Moscow. Some 48,000 visitors have gone this way already.

    Over tea in the Black Sea resort of Batumi, Saakashvili tells me
    that if Chechens arriving in Georgia see "everyone smiling at them,"
    it's good for national security. "For us, it's a protection," he says.

    "They can say, 'We've been there, and we don't want next time to come
    to rampage and pillage.'â~@~I"

    Security through tourism: it's an idea aimed not only at the
    North Caucasus, but at regional powers Azerbaijan and Armenia as
    well. Those landlocked countries are very much the target market
    for Georgia's Black Sea resort boom. Anaklia, which was little more
    than a village with a pleasant beach when I visited two years ago, is
    being transformed at a dizzying rate. It seems half-finished already;
    when complete it will have a water park, casino, open-air disco,
    yacht rental, a strand with 5,000 imported palms and, confusingly, a
    Chinatown located just a rifle shot away from the disputed Abkhazian
    border. Saakashvili calls close trade and tourism with Azerbaijan
    and Armenia "absolutely crucial" to Georgia's development as a focal
    point of a more unified Caucasus.

    (Read "One Year On, Could Russia and Georgia Fight Another War?")

    A Finger in Moscow's Eye Georgia's Pankisi gorge -- a string of
    muddy villages that was an infamous Chechen rebel hideout before
    Saakashvili regained control there in 2004 -- shows signs of regional
    bonds Saakashvili can build on. After accusations of being hostile
    to Chechen refugees early in his career, Saakashvili seems to have
    won many over by giving them citizenship and equal rights under
    Georgian law. Acet, who didn't want her full name used because it
    might endanger relatives still living in Chechnya, is one of some
    800 civilian refugees from the Chechen war still living in Pankisi;
    she arrived after being denied citizenship in Turkey. "I'm so glad our
    brothers took us in," she says. "We are free here." Even the revered
    Alla Dudayeva, whose husband General Dzhokhar Dudayev proclaimed
    himself the first President of "free" Chechnya before the Russians
    killed him, has moved to Georgia after long exile in Europe. "Anywhere
    in the mountains, you are with your people," Dudayeva tells me at
    her home in Tbilisi. "Georgians and Chechens are one."

    That's the message of Kanal PIK, an ambitious government-funded effort
    to start a Caucasus version of al-Jazeera. The programming is all
    Russian-language and beamed into homes throughout the region from
    Tbilisi, including into the Russian republics of the North Caucasus.

    The idea is to do for the Caucasus what al-Jazeera did for the Middle
    East: provide an independent source of news to break through the
    regional censorship. "There's a big problem with an information vacuum
    in the region," says Katya Kotrikadze, PIK's head of news. Coming soon,
    for example: a series of documentaries called The Truth About Chechnya,
    billed as showing war footage "prohibited on Russian channels."

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