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A Brotherhood Is Bolstered By Food And Friendship

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  • A Brotherhood Is Bolstered By Food And Friendship

    A BROTHERHOOD IS BOLSTERED BY FOOD AND FRIENDSHIP
    By Paloma Esquivel

    Los Angeles Times
    September 19, 2011

    The Organization of Istanbul Armenians, a group of more than 1,000
    Turkish Armenians in Southern California, celebrates a unique culture.

    Agavni Ardic-T, left, and Talin Sarafoglu help out in the kitchen
    at a gathering of the Organization of Istanbul Armenians. (Brian van
    der Brug, Los Angeles Times / September 19, 2011)

    In the kitchen of this Winnetka hall, honey-filled balls of lokma are
    piled on plates for dessert. Puff pastries called borek are filled
    with cheese, eggs and dill, then warmed in the oven. Spicy Armenian
    prosciutto chills in the fridge.

    The night's main dish - marinated beef called doner on three large
    spits - is roasting. It takes at least five hours to make a proper
    doner, says cook Sako Cicek. He places thin ribbons of the meat in
    a chafing dish.

    Photos: Turkish Armenians in Southern California

    The occasion for this feast is Doner Night, an event sponsored by
    the Organization of Istanbul Armenians, a group of more than 1,000
    Turkish Armenians in Southern California. Of the hundreds of thousands
    of Armenians in California, Turkish Armenians make up a small fraction.

    In addition to Armenian, they also speak Turkish, listen to Turkish
    music and have adopted many of the traditions of that country.

    There are times, some said, when this closeness with Turkey - those
    who remained in that country were sometimes discouraged from following
    their own traditions and culture - has made it difficult to gain
    acceptance from other Armenians. But that is changing. Organizations
    like the one hosting this event have found ways to embrace both
    elements of the culture.

    "Now they are going through a certain revival," said Richard
    Hovannisian, who holds the chair of the Armenian Educational Foundation
    at UCLA. "They're given a little more space to discover their culture."

    After renting various spaces for years, the Organization of Istanbul
    Armenians occupies an ornate two-story building in Winnetka where
    children take Armenian-language lessons and events like Doner Night
    bring hundreds together for music and food. This year, the group will
    celebrate its 35th anniversary.

    But when the group started, said Avedis Tekolian, one of the founders,
    "we didn't have much money. People gave $3, $12. We worked very hard."

    In the U.S., said Talin Sarafoglu, the president of the Istanbul
    Armenians ladies auxiliary, which organized the weekend event,
    Turkish Armenians were able to learn more about the Armenian side of
    their culture.

    "When we first came here, we also went through a revival of finding
    our Armenian identity," she said. "Our goal is while we can keep
    some of the customs and the food from our native land, we also want
    to bond with other Armenian groups."

    Like others, Frank V. Zerunyan, a city councilman in Rolling Hills
    Estates, left Istanbul because his family wanted more opportunities
    for him than they believed he would have in Turkey. When he was 11,
    his father, who had been a successful business owner, started getting
    threats.

    "At that time, it was not very well received when a non-Turkish
    individual or Christian minority reached levels of substance,"
    he said. "My father knew very well that I could not have much of a
    future in that country."

    When he arrived in the U.S. in 1978, the Organization of Istanbul
    Armenians was 2 years old and had only a few dozen members. He joined
    and ultimately became chairman of the scholarship committee.

    For Berna Khachigian, another member of the auxiliary, the organization
    became like a second family.

    She came to the U.S. when she was 12 and has only a few close family
    members here, she said.

    Past 10 p.m. on a recent Saturday night, Khachigian was in the kitchen,
    keeping tabs on things. The doner had been served. The dinner had
    been an elegant affair, with linen tablecloths and modern white
    china. Bottles of soft drinks, red wine and an anise-flavored drink
    called raki had been passed around the table.

    Photos: Turkish Armenians in Southern California

    The deejay was beginning to play Turkish and Armenian songs with a
    heavy bass that could be heard clearly in the kitchen.

    "This is a gathering place for us," Khachigian said. "We have friends
    here, they have become like cousins."

    [email protected]

    http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-istanbul-armenian-20110919,0,6529562.story

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