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Life In Iran: An Affair To Remember

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  • Life In Iran: An Affair To Remember

    LIFE IN IRAN: AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER

    IBN Live
    http://ibnlive.in.com/news/life-in-iran-an-affair-to-remember/249416-60-122.html
    April 17 2012

    KOCHI: It was around midnight. One was in deep slumber exhausted after
    the previous day's mountaineering. Though too weary to open the eyes,
    we saw ourselves at the Armenian border from Iran where our bus was
    waiting for visa stamping.

    An Iranian immigration officer issued an exit stamp. Thus, we moved to
    the Armenian border. One could see the small tent with the Armenian
    flag fluttering in the moonlight. We took the camera and captured
    some images. Since the visibility of the flag was dimmed due to the
    darkness we used the flash to make it more visible.

    Just as we were shooting, all of a sudden, a few Armenian soldiers
    came and asked us to follow them. It proved to be a mistake. This
    became clearer when we read the graffiti pasted there - 'Photography
    Prohibited'.

    Nobody spoke English and we waited patiently for the officer who was
    to meet us. An hour passed, our bus left, while we were left stranded
    at the spot. A bit later, the officer arrived and examined the camera.

    We showed him the pictures and deleted the photos we had taken.�
    He wasn't keen anymore that we cross the border.

    Just one photo was threatening to ruin our travel plans. We came
    back and sat at the Iranian border. It was around 2 am. There were no
    buses, no cabs. The time was moving at a snail's pace in the absence
    of any activity around. So we decided to head for Jolfa in Iran via
    a taxi. From Jolfa, after spending an hour, one reached Tabriz.

    We found a hotel room, costing $30 per day with complementary
    breakfast. We did not know anything about Tabriz as it had never
    figured in the iternary. We called up Farah, a friend who lived in
    Meagan. She too did not know much about Tabriz, located as it is in
    the last tip of the North Iran.

    Yet, in half an hour she called back saying that a few of her friends
    would pick us up and show us around. Fifteen minutes later, we see two
    beautiful girls - Mona and Laden-- at our place in a Peugeot 307 car.

    Mona spoke moderate English and both were artists. They showed us
    all the interesting places in Tabriz, and truly saved us from what
    would have been two days of drudgery.

    Through them we met Ali and Yahaya, both management students. Also,
    Seema, Mariyum and Sogan who studied in Tabriz University. Sogan and
    Seema could speak English well. Sogan who taught English in Tehran had
    plans to do her PhD in the US. Seema on the other hand was learning
    French so she could migrate to Canada.

    One saw that all of them had a dream, but were� frustrated and felt
    stuck in their country. The Iranian government's mismanagement had
    turned everyone we met against it.

    In Iran, almost 70 per cent of the youngsters are moderate alcoholics.

    Beneath their burqas is a Levis jeans or Adidas T-shirt. It was time
    to bid adios. Ali and Yahaya hugged and promised to see us again.

    If one goes by what BBC and CNN tell you, Iran is one of the most
    dangerous places in the world. We certainly didn't feel that way. The
    people are as normal as everyone else, with the usual hopes, fears
    and expectations.

    Most of them are Shia Muslims.

    We took a taxi from Falkeye to Meagan to meet Farah, forty kilometers
    far away from Tehran. She spoke English well, and worked as a teacher
    in a government school. She watched a lot of Indian films, dubbed
    in Persian and had access to almost all western channels from the
    satellite dish.

    "It is banned in Iran, but everyone uses the satellite dish," she
    tells us.

    The day ended with Farah taking us to her house, where her family
    hosted a nice dinner party, with fish and rice prepared in Iranian
    style. She arranged a taxi to Tehran for ourdeparture. The light
    music of Shahyar Ghanbari followed from the stereo.

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