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Distant Civil War Leads To New Armenian Restaurant Downtown

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  • Distant Civil War Leads To New Armenian Restaurant Downtown

    DISTANT CIVIL WAR LEADS TO NEW ARMENIAN RESTAURANT DOWNTOWN
    By Damien Jaques

    OnMilwaukee.com
    http://onmilwaukee.com/dining/articles/arinbert12.html?29910
    April 16 2012

    Senior Contributing Editor

    Few new restaurants sprout in Milwaukee as a direct result of a civil
    war. Few Wisconsinites get married to a soundtrack of artillery fire
    in the distance.

    But those are the roots of Arin Bert Coffee & Grill, which recently
    opened in a Downtown storefront that over several decades has housed
    Finch's Corned Beef, Five Dollar Deli, Philly Way, Wingz and Amazon
    Pizza. The address is 222 W. Wells St.

    Arin Bert has two identities. It is a coffee shop serving a complete
    line of Alterra products, baked goods, frappes, smoothies and Italian
    sodas. It is also an Armenian restaurant that serves traditional
    cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains.

    Owner Joseph Seifert says his closest Armenian competitor is in
    Glenview, Ill.

    Named after a famous Armenian fortress the arch-enemy Turks never
    conquered, the informal Arin Bert features counter service. Beef, pork
    and chicken are ground or chunked, placed on skewers and grilled before
    being served as platters ($7.95 to $8.95) or in wraps ($5.95 to $6.50).

    Platters come with sauce, two sides, rice pilaf or fries, and an
    Armenian flat bread called lavash. The sides include hummus, tabouli,
    carrot salad, potato-beet salad, pickled cabbage, and a warm red bean
    adjiga (paste). Wraps are accompanied by hummus, rice, sumac onion
    and sauce.

    Falafel is also offered as a platter ($6.25) and wrap ($4.75). Ton,
    an Armenian style yogurt drink with salt and mint, is on the menu. Arin
    Bert opens at 6:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday, and a breakfast wrap
    of eggs, cheese and cucumbers is available in the morning.

    Authentic desserts made on the premises include baklava and drunken
    cherry chocolate torte. Armenian baklava substitutes rose water or
    orange blossom water for honey, resulting in a less sweet pastry. The
    drunken cherry chocolate torte is dense but light.

    Seifert is a Muskego native and attorney with a compelling story. Not
    knowing a word of Russian, he moved to Moscow in 1990 after Mikhail
    Gorbachev opened the Soviet Union to private enterprise.

    "I was young and daring," he recently explained while having lunch
    at Arin Bert. "I was looking for business opportunities."

    Joined by a partner, he opened a cosmetics factory, but when the
    partner was assassinated in 1993, Seifert knew his Russian adventure
    would be coming to a close. "The mob was out of control, and it was
    getting too dangerous to do business there," he said.

    Seifert had fallen in love with an Armenian woman from the old Soviet
    republic of Georgia while he was in Moscow, and the two married in
    Georgia while a civil war was being fought around them. Manuchak
    Seifert came to the U.S. with her new husband. She is a registered
    nurse at Froedtert Hospital.

    Meanwhile, her family was caught in a war zone, and the fighting
    took the lives of more than 150 of her relatives. At one point,
    Joseph Seifert traveled back to Georgia to bring Manuchak's then
    11-year-old niece to the safety of the U.S.

    The Seiferts were eventually able to move the niece's entire family -
    Manuchak's brother, sister-in-law and nephew - to Milwaukee, and that
    is how Arin Bert Coffee & Grill came to be.

    Joseph knew restaurant management, having owned a supper club in
    Mosinee before he moved to Moscow. Manuchak's family included an
    aunt who was a famous Armenian pastry chef, and her brother, Razmik
    Kalenjian, had kitchen experience.

    When the storefront below Joseph's law office in the Century Building
    became vacant, he saw an opportunity to set his Armenian in-laws up
    in the restaurant business. Razmik, his wife Susana and their two
    children, now adults, are all involved in Arin Bert.

    The original plan was to operate just the Armenian grill, but the
    Century Building owner suggested to Seifert that the neighborhood
    needed a coffee shop, and the adjacent retail space was also vacant. A
    dividing wall was removed, and Arin Bert's concept was expanded.

    About 55 can be seated indoors, and a few tables are placed on the
    sidewalk in pleasant weather. Seifert said he and his brother-in-law
    are partners in the venture, and they plan to eventually offer Downtown
    food delivery.

    Arin Bert is open to 6:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. A Sunday
    Armenian brunch may be added in the future. A website is under
    construction.

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