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Armenian Deli Remains All About Family

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  • Armenian Deli Remains All About Family

    ARMENIAN DELI REMAINS ALL ABOUT FAMILY
    By Bethany Clough

    Fresno Bee
    http://www.fresnobee.com/2012/02/20/2729823/armenian-deli-remains-all-about.html
    Feb 21 2012
    CA

    Alla's Armenian Restaurant & Deli is run by just two people: Alla
    Sargsyan and her son, Arthur.

    Fans of the former Bedrosian's Armenian Deli in the same location,
    3051 E. Ashlan Ave., will recognize Alla. She worked as a cook under
    owner Johnnie Bedrosian for 14 years.

    Sargsyan and Bedrosian parted ways a little over a year ago and
    Bedrosian's closed shortly after. But in late November, Alla and her
    son decided to open their own restaurant in the same space.

    Now they spend 12 to 14 hours a day, six days a week, making hummus
    and yalanchi -- grape leaves stuffed with rice, onion and tomatoes --
    from scratch.

    Alla cooks while Arthur waits tables. During busy lunch hours, he
    runs back and forth from the dining room, down a long hallway he calls
    his highway, to a Weber grill out the back of the restaurant. There,
    he tends to the chicken, beef, lamb and pork kebabs they added to
    the menu.

    They know they need to hire another person, but right now they don't
    have the money.

    The little restaurant at the northwest corner of First Street and
    Ashlan Avenue is still getting a makeover. There's a new paint job,
    ceiling and floor, but the alcoves that line the dining room are empty,
    waiting for business to pick up before money is spent on filling them
    with sculptures.

    Alla is cooking much of the same menu as the old place. She built up
    quite a following when the restaurant was Bedrosian's.

    "I like them. They like me, like a family," Alla says.

    And family is important to the Sargsyans, in part because they don't
    have very much of it.

    Alla and a 9-year-old Arthur, an only child, moved from Armenia to
    Fresno in 1995 to be closer to Alla's husband's family. The couple
    divorced, but Alla stayed, despite not having a single blood relative
    in the country.

    So those relationships they have with customers are all the more
    important, they say. When people get to know them and greet them with
    a hug like they're family, it makes the hard work worth it, Arthur says

    "When we go home after 12 hours, we're not as tired," he says.

    Can we talk about desserts for a minute?

    Every time I write about special holiday meals at restaurants, I end
    up salivating over the desserts.

    Like the blackberry, peach and pistachio crumble topped with a
    pistachio butter topping that Elaine's Table at Tres Bien in Visalia
    had for Valentine's Day. How can you not want to indulge in something
    sweet after reading that description?

    So I want to find out where you get your favorite dessert. Drop me a
    line at [email protected] telling me where you go and what sweet
    something you order. Describe it for me and maybe I'll include it in
    a future column.

    Dickey's Barbecue Pit opened Feb. 10 at 73 N. Main St. in Porterville.

    It's the first Dickey's for the central San Joaquin Valley and
    franchisee Ed Phillips tells me that the ribs are selling so well
    they can't cook them fast enough.

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