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NAGORNO KARABAKH: THE BLACK GARDEN (PHOTOS)
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/olivia-katrandjian/nagorno-karabakh-the-black-garden_b_1223383.html
01/27/2012
Olivia Katrandjian.Journalist and Travel Writer GET UPDATES FROM
Olivia Katrandjian
stumble If you're looking for an adventure through largely unknown
territory, Nagorno Karabakh, a landlocked autonomous region between
Armenia and Azerbaijan, is the place to go. A country recognized
by no one, it's the kind of place that's so contested that not only
does it not have an embassy anywhere, but its "Office of Permanent
Representation" in Armenia doesn't even ask if you want your visa
pasted into your passport. They know you don't, so they just attach
it with a paper clip.
Once you make it to Karabakh (which is only accessible through
Armenia), stay at the recently-built Armenia Hotel in the capital,
Stepanakert, and use the city as your base to explore the region.
Feast on shish kebob and grilled vegetables. Go to the local market
where an old Armenian woman will fry you a piece of jengyalov hatz,
a bread stuffed with 13 types of herbs, on a burning hot griddle.
While in Stepanakert, visit the Museum of Fallen Soldiers, where the
walls are lined with photographs the Armenians who died during the
1990-1994 war with Azerbaijan.
Don't miss the Gandzasar Monastery, meaning "hilltop treasure,"
built in the 10th century. Visit at night when the lighting gives
this ancient church a ghostly presence.
To explore the countryside, use the Janapar hiking trail, which
will take you through snow-topped mountains and fields of yellow and
red flowers.
"Karabakh and Armenia have always had footpaths used by natives to get
from one village to the next, to monasteries and to trade routes,"
said Raffi Kojian, who designed the trail in 2007. "Shepherds have
created a network as well, to graze the animals. The Janapar is a
weaving of these many paths to form one long route for visitors who
want to experience some of the best Karabakh has to offer. Hikers
will meet lots of helpful and curious locals along the route, and no
doubt experience some of the legendary hospitality."
The trail is designed to end at a different village each night, so you
can easily plan accommodations. If you're staying with a local, don't
be surprised if you're offered homemade mulberry vodka with breakfast.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/olivia-katrandjian/nagorno-karabakh-the-black-garden_b_1223383.html
01/27/2012
Olivia Katrandjian.Journalist and Travel Writer GET UPDATES FROM
Olivia Katrandjian
stumble If you're looking for an adventure through largely unknown
territory, Nagorno Karabakh, a landlocked autonomous region between
Armenia and Azerbaijan, is the place to go. A country recognized
by no one, it's the kind of place that's so contested that not only
does it not have an embassy anywhere, but its "Office of Permanent
Representation" in Armenia doesn't even ask if you want your visa
pasted into your passport. They know you don't, so they just attach
it with a paper clip.
Once you make it to Karabakh (which is only accessible through
Armenia), stay at the recently-built Armenia Hotel in the capital,
Stepanakert, and use the city as your base to explore the region.
Feast on shish kebob and grilled vegetables. Go to the local market
where an old Armenian woman will fry you a piece of jengyalov hatz,
a bread stuffed with 13 types of herbs, on a burning hot griddle.
While in Stepanakert, visit the Museum of Fallen Soldiers, where the
walls are lined with photographs the Armenians who died during the
1990-1994 war with Azerbaijan.
Don't miss the Gandzasar Monastery, meaning "hilltop treasure,"
built in the 10th century. Visit at night when the lighting gives
this ancient church a ghostly presence.
To explore the countryside, use the Janapar hiking trail, which
will take you through snow-topped mountains and fields of yellow and
red flowers.
"Karabakh and Armenia have always had footpaths used by natives to get
from one village to the next, to monasteries and to trade routes,"
said Raffi Kojian, who designed the trail in 2007. "Shepherds have
created a network as well, to graze the animals. The Janapar is a
weaving of these many paths to form one long route for visitors who
want to experience some of the best Karabakh has to offer. Hikers
will meet lots of helpful and curious locals along the route, and no
doubt experience some of the legendary hospitality."
The trail is designed to end at a different village each night, so you
can easily plan accommodations. If you're staying with a local, don't
be surprised if you're offered homemade mulberry vodka with breakfast.