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A DAY IN ARMENIA'S WINE COUNTRY
Noyan Tapan
2012-03-05
About an hour and a half south of Yerevan on the main road is the
village of Areni. You will know that you are approaching the village
when the roadside stalls, usually reserved for fresh fruit, become
displays of Coke and Fanta bottles that look suspiciously like they
have something besides the advertised product inside. Most of the
bottles are, in fact, empty and only painted to look filled, but that
little tidbit of information shouldn't stop you from pulling over to
sample what they are selling: wine and spirits made from local fruits.
In 2007, archaeologists discovered a winery dating back over 6000
years in what is known as the Areni-1 cave. It is the oldest winery
ever discovered, predating any other by 1000 years. (Also found in
the Areni-1 cave is the world's oldest leather shoe dating back over
5000 years.) With so many years of practice behind them, it is easy
to understand why Areni is the wine-making capital of Armenia.
As you approach the village, on the left is a large, grey-stone
building with a red roof. This is the Areni wine factory and it is open
to tours. But most people prefer to sample the homemade products at the
numerous stands along the side of the road. Products on offer include
grape, cherry and apricot wines as well as "vodka" (much more similar
to grappa) made of the same fruits. Some of these really pack a punch,
so make sure you have a designated driver before you start tasting!
According to some, the reason for the Coke bottles is so that Iranian
truck-drivers can bring the wine back with them across the border. I
think the explanation is much simpler: recycling.
Areni is a picturesque village complete with river views and a historic
church, Surb Astvatsatsin, the stone carvings and architecture of
which are attributed to Momik. The best time to visit is the fall;
there are many harvest festivals in early October and, of course, the
Areni wine festival in mid-October. The foliage is spectacular and the
weather is still warm, plus there's plenty of wine and kebab to sample.
If fall is the best time to visit Areni, winter is the best time to
check out the village of Khachik. Take the winding road through Areni
up the mountain and hold your breath. You will be amazed at the views
of Ararat, which seems to hover above the snow and clouds. When you
reach the village, you won't be able to escape the mountain. It is
simply magical.
One of many breathtaking views on the way up to Khachik. The village
school looks out on an equally impressive panorama. Imagine trying
to concentrate on lessons!
After you've spent the day wandering around Areni and Khachik,
continue south for a nice khorovats. There are several choices
along the main road including one at the turn-off to Noravank and
Lchak restaurant, situated on a pond. If you feel like travelling
a bit farther, there's a great restaurant at Noravank as well. But
the best in the neighborhood is in Getap. Continue south on the main
road until you reach the turn off to Martuni. Take that road to the
second of two restaurants, Sisakanots, where they have excellent pork
and fish khorovats. In season, you can sit outside at a private table
overlooking the Yeghegis River.
Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in
Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do
not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps.
Noyan Tapan
2012-03-05
About an hour and a half south of Yerevan on the main road is the
village of Areni. You will know that you are approaching the village
when the roadside stalls, usually reserved for fresh fruit, become
displays of Coke and Fanta bottles that look suspiciously like they
have something besides the advertised product inside. Most of the
bottles are, in fact, empty and only painted to look filled, but that
little tidbit of information shouldn't stop you from pulling over to
sample what they are selling: wine and spirits made from local fruits.
In 2007, archaeologists discovered a winery dating back over 6000
years in what is known as the Areni-1 cave. It is the oldest winery
ever discovered, predating any other by 1000 years. (Also found in
the Areni-1 cave is the world's oldest leather shoe dating back over
5000 years.) With so many years of practice behind them, it is easy
to understand why Areni is the wine-making capital of Armenia.
As you approach the village, on the left is a large, grey-stone
building with a red roof. This is the Areni wine factory and it is open
to tours. But most people prefer to sample the homemade products at the
numerous stands along the side of the road. Products on offer include
grape, cherry and apricot wines as well as "vodka" (much more similar
to grappa) made of the same fruits. Some of these really pack a punch,
so make sure you have a designated driver before you start tasting!
According to some, the reason for the Coke bottles is so that Iranian
truck-drivers can bring the wine back with them across the border. I
think the explanation is much simpler: recycling.
Areni is a picturesque village complete with river views and a historic
church, Surb Astvatsatsin, the stone carvings and architecture of
which are attributed to Momik. The best time to visit is the fall;
there are many harvest festivals in early October and, of course, the
Areni wine festival in mid-October. The foliage is spectacular and the
weather is still warm, plus there's plenty of wine and kebab to sample.
If fall is the best time to visit Areni, winter is the best time to
check out the village of Khachik. Take the winding road through Areni
up the mountain and hold your breath. You will be amazed at the views
of Ararat, which seems to hover above the snow and clouds. When you
reach the village, you won't be able to escape the mountain. It is
simply magical.
One of many breathtaking views on the way up to Khachik. The village
school looks out on an equally impressive panorama. Imagine trying
to concentrate on lessons!
After you've spent the day wandering around Areni and Khachik,
continue south for a nice khorovats. There are several choices
along the main road including one at the turn-off to Noravank and
Lchak restaurant, situated on a pond. If you feel like travelling
a bit farther, there's a great restaurant at Noravank as well. But
the best in the neighborhood is in Getap. Continue south on the main
road until you reach the turn off to Martuni. Take that road to the
second of two restaurants, Sisakanots, where they have excellent pork
and fish khorovats. In season, you can sit outside at a private table
overlooking the Yeghegis River.
Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in
Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do
not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps.