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For Eurovision Host, A Note Of Discord

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  • For Eurovision Host, A Note Of Discord

    For Eurovision Host, a Note of Discord
    By JOE PARKINSON

    EUROPE NEWS
    http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304065704577422320207285282.html
    May 25, 2012, 4:17 a.m. ET

    BAKU, Azerbaijan-Famed for outrageous spectacle and gaudy kitsch,
    the Eurovision song contest is a quirky annual tradition usually more
    synonymous with high camp than high politics: not so in Azerbaijan.

    For this small ex-Soviet nation hosting the pop music competition's
    finale for the first time on Saturday, Eurovision is a political
    project designed to showcase the country's booming capital and its
    European aspirations to millions of viewers.

    Flush with revenue from an oil and gas windfall since its main export
    pipeline began operating in 2006, the government has prepared for
    Eurovision with a frenzy of construction and beefed-up state security.

    Mathias Depardon for The Wall Street journal

    A family from commemorate the birth of Heydar Aliyev in front of the
    Heydar Aliyev Palace. Baku Azerbaijan 2012 A family from commemorate
    the birth of Heydar Aliyev in front of the Heydar Aliyev Palace. Baku
    Azerbaijan 2012

    Ruled for nearly two decades by the late Heydar Aliyev, a former
    KGB general, and now his son Ilham, Azerbaijan has poured some $100
    million into infrastructure ahead of the event-cramming a multiyear
    development plan for its capital Baku into less than 12 months.

    Azerbaijan is the latest former communist country, including
    Ukraine, Russia and Serbia, to win the right to host the frothy pop
    extravaganza, but unlike in the other cases, international attention
    on Azerbaijan's poor human-rights record threatens to damp the impact.

    Over the past two months, one investigative journalist, Idrak
    Abbasov, was hospitalized after being beaten, while a second, Khadija
    Ismayilova, was threatened with the release of a sex tape, filmed
    using cameras concealed in her apartment, unless she stopped writing
    articles investigating the Aliyev family's alleged corruption. The
    journalists allege that the government is behind the incidents. The
    government denies those charges and has pledged to investigate.

    Activists say hundreds of Baku residents weren't fairly compensated
    when they were forced to leave their homes in order to make way for
    construction projects. The government denies that.

    Police on Monday briefly detained 10 protesters in central Baku during
    a march demanding democracy and the government's resignation.

    A protest in downtown Baku by a local group called "sing for democracy"
    on Tuesday passed without incident.

    Opposition activists, dominated by young Web-savvy university graduates
    who campaign using social media, have sought to rebrand Azerbaijan's
    "light your fire" slogan to "fight your liar," in a reference to
    official corruption. Many activists lament the lack of support from
    governments in Europe and the U.S. who see Azerbaijan as a stable
    energy producer and an ally against Iran.

    The government, unfamiliar with sharp criticism from its tightly
    controlled media, initially appeared to have been caught off guard
    by the criticism. But in recent days, officials have lashed out
    at critics.

    "We know the image and strength of these organizations but they
    are losing the trust of our society," said Ali Hasanov, head of
    the public and political issues department at the presidential
    administration. "Their conclusions do not correspond with the reality"
    and their statements are "anti-Azeri propaganda," he told a news
    conference.

    Officials say the government is willing to hear criticism but also
    wants recognition for its achievements and its willingness to open up.

    The increasingly bitter political reaction stands in contrast with
    the festive atmosphere of Azerbaijan's showpiece capital, Baku. The
    rapid completion of prestige projects has transformed this once-drab
    Soviet city into a glittering showcase of marble and neon. Workers
    have expanded a highway to the airport and the seafront boardwalk,
    which runs along the Caspian Sea. Perched on a hill overlooking the
    coastal promenade sit the so-called Flame Towers, a $350 million
    complex with three buildings shaped like flames that at night are
    illuminated with 100,000 lights showing moving flames or the Azeri
    flag. In the city's ancient citadel, nightly the silk-road era maiden
    tower, a signature landmark made of mud brick, has become the canvas
    for a mesmerizing video art exhibition.

    To stage the event, the Aliyev regime last month completed a cavernous,
    23,000-seat palace ringed by diamond-shaped glass panels on a pier
    jutting out into the Caspian Sea, the Baku Crystal Hall.

    Across the city are other example's of the government's efforts to
    project a new image. The government flew in more than 1,000 iconic
    London taxi cabs to replace the dilapidated unlicensed cars that have
    plied the city for decades. At Mr. Aliyev's behest, the Baku fleet
    is deep purple, not traditional black, and drivers are required to
    wear a uniform of navy slacks and light blue polo shirt.

    In the evenings, crowds of Azeris, as if seeking confirmation of the
    pace of change, gather at big screens along the capital's promenades
    to watch glossy advertisements promoting the Eurovision contest and
    trumpeting the city's transformation.

    "I can't recognize the city anymore, but the way it looks now makes
    me proud," said Rasul Huseynov, a 32-year-old engineer watching the
    screen with his two sons, one of whom was draped in an Azeri flag.

    "We all want to be a part of this and show the world that we're a
    serious country."

    That message is one Azerbaijan's rulers hope will lure tourists and
    foreign investment and strengthen the country's influence in one of
    the world's key energy corridors. At least 100 million people are
    expected to watch the contest, which pitches pop acts from more than
    40 nations against one another in a flamboyant battle of the bands.

    The politics of the song contest have also reverberated around
    Azerbaijan's fraught region.

    Baku's neighbor Iran on Tuesday recalled its ambassador for
    consultations after some of the Islamic Republic's clerics and
    lawmakers criticized Azerbaijan's hosting of the contest, calling it a
    "gay parade."

    In March, neighbor Armenia, with whom Azerbaijan is still at war
    over a disputed territory, pulled out of the competition, citing
    the death of an Armenian soldier from an Azeri sniper attack. Baku
    countered that Armenia had staged the killing to provoke a domestic
    crisis that could benefit the ruling party in national elections.

    Although opposition activists have successfully promoted their message
    of discontent, most Azeris see Eurovision as a holiday and a badge
    of national pride.

    "We're a long way from perfect, but life is getting much better here,"
    said Safer Aliyev, a 23-year-old engineering student. "Look at our
    city: this is a great chance to show the world that Azerbaijan is a
    modern nation and the country is behind that."

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