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The New York Times
November 22, 2012
36 Hours in Kolkata, India
By DAN PACKEL
CONTEMPORARY narratives of resurgent India frequently sidestep the
city of Kolkata, also known as Calcutta, the capital of the state of
West Bengal and the seat of power during the British Raj. The city's
political clout has long since shifted to New Delhi, and its economic
might more recently to Mumbai. Yet its reputation as an intellectual
and cultural hub still lingers - five Nobel Prize winners are
associated with the city, including the economist Amartya Sen and the
poet-novelist-painter-songwriter Rabindranath Tagore. But like the
rest of India, this clamorous yet charming city is changing: in 2011,
the democratically elected Communist government of West Bengal was
voted out of power after 34 years. For many Bengalis, this political
transition reflects a desire to catch up with the rest of
India. Visitors exploring Kolkata today are in a position to glimpse
an emerging urban modernity but still have the opportunity to explore
the city's rich past, which, for now, remains unavoidable at every
step.
Friday
3 p.m.
1. THE SEAT OF POWER
Known during the colonial era as Dalhousie Square, B.B.D. Bagh sits at
the political heart of Kolkata. Sidestep the food vendors selling
omelets and dosas to the area's office workers from their sidewalk
perches, and admire the colonial buildings where British commerce and
administrative functions were once carried out. The most prominent of
these is the Writers Building, on the north side of the square, a
columnated red brick edifice constructed in 1776 that serves as the
seat of the state government, and is now in the hands of the Trinamool
Congress party.
5:30 p.m.
2. GALLERY STOP
In the early part of the 20th century, the style of art known as the
Bengal School achieved national prominence from its base in Kolkata,
exemplified by the works of the painter Abanindranath Tagore,
Rabindranath Tagore's nephew. These muted watercolors, a response to
the purported materialism of Western art, emphasized spiritual and
natural themes. Though the influence of the school has long since
dissipated, Kolkata remains an important locus for Indian art. CIMA,
or Center of International Modern Art (Sunny Towers, 43 Ashutosh
Chowdhury Avenue; 91-33-2485-8717; cimaartindia.com), a sleek, modern
space in South Kolkata, is one of the best places to view it. Recent
exhibitions have shown the art of Shreyasi Chatterjee and Paresh
Maity, among others.
7:30 p.m.
3. A FULL PLATE
Traditionally, the best way to experience Bengali food, marked by an
enthusiasm for river fish and the sharp kick of mustard oil, was
inside a Bengali home. If you can swing an invitation to dinner, take
advantage of it. But with many women refusing to spend so much time in
the kitchen, there are an increasing number of restaurants serving
Bengali fare. Of these, it's tough to beat Kewpie's (2 Elgin Lane;
91-33-2486-1600), on the eclectically decorated ground floor of a
residential bungalow. Come hungry, order the mangshor thali (620
rupees, or $11.50 at 54 rupees to the dollar) and receive your choice
of fish, a vegetable and a meat curry, along with rice, dal, dessert
and more.
10 p.m.
4. LOUNGE THEN DANCE
Late nights aren't the same in Kolkata after the recent imposition of
a midnight curfew, but dedicated partyers now get an earlier
start. Settle into a corner seat at Plush (Astor Hotel, 15 Shakespeare
Sarani; 91-33-2282-9957; astorkolkata.com), with a cover charge of
1,000 rupees for two, applicable to drinks and food. You can enjoy a
cocktail while the soundtrack shifts from house music to Western club
hits and the dance floor begins to fill.
Saturday
8 a.m.
5. WALKING HISTORY
Economically, Kolkata thrived during the colonial period, with many
Bengalis amassing great wealth through trade and service in the
colonial administration. A walk through the narrow streets of the
city's Sovabazar neighborhood provides a glimpse at the ancestral
estates, which range in style from Islamic to Baroque and beyond, that
emerged during this period. There are also print shops, jewelry
workshops and other enterprises. Rely on an informative guided tour
from Calcutta Walks (91-98301-84030; calcuttawalks.com), which charges
1,500 rupees a person, to make the most of your venture.
Afterward, taste another side of Bengali food at Bhojohori Manna,
attached to the renovated Star Theater (79/3/4 Bidhan Sarani;
91-33-2533-8519; bhojohorimanna.com). If it's available, try the super
jumbo ilish barishali (225 rupees), a thick steak of this local fish
served in mustard sauce.
2 p.m.
6. KAFFEEKLATSCH
Book stalls stuffed with used textbooks and paperbacks line College
Street in front of the University of Calcutta, as you make your way to
the historic Indian Coffee House (15 Bankim Chaterjee Street; 91-33
2237-5649). Here, in an airy second-floor hall, generations of Bengali
students and intellectuals have engaged in adda, or spirited
discussion, over cups of coffee (15 rupees). Even though the
Communists are out of power, leftist thought remains strong here; on a
recent visit, among the slogans in English and Bengali on a whiteboard
on the wall, someone had written: `Capital is not in
crisis. Capitalism is the crisis.'
5 p.m.
7. SHOPPING TIME
While shopping-mall culture has emerged in the city's newer
neighborhoods in the south and the east, the sprawling New Market
(Lindsay Street) still surges with crowds. The name refers to the
covered S. S. Hogg Market, but informally it also refers to the
shopping arcades surrounding the complex. Shop for pashmina shawls and
curios, admire richly detailed saris and other fabrics, or simply
marvel at the range of items on offer here, from flowers to
feather-dusters to foodstuffs. If you need a snack, head to Nizam's
(23-24 Hogg Street; 91-98-3619-4669). It is said to be the progenitor
of the kathi roll - a paratha (flatbread) that's cooked in an egg,
then rolled up around mutton or chicken spiced with fresh lime juice,
red onion, finely chopped green chili, and salt - that is now found in
cities across India (35 rupees).
8 p.m.
8. TOUCHPAD DINING
Take a breather from Bengali food at Bistro by the Park (2A, Middleton
Row; 91-33-2229-6494), which opened in 2011 with a menu created by the
British expat chef Shaun Kenworthy. The menu at this 50-seat
restaurant arrives on iPads and features salads, pastas, pizzas,
Southeast-Asian-influenced dishes and, in a concession to Bengali
tastes, fish (here, bhetki) in mustard sauce. Dinner for two,
including two glasses of Italian or Australian wine, is about 1,800
rupees.
10:30 p.m.
9. ROCK 'N' ROLL
Park Street was once lined with clubs where one could hear jazz and
other Western sounds, but since 1997, the city's rock music scene has
been dominated by one spot: Someplace Else, inside the Park Hotel (17
Park Street; 91-33-2249-9000;
theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html). With brass lamps, iron
railings and brick walls, the room nicely approximates a dingy pub
(save for its location inside a boutique hotel). On a given night, the
small, deep stage in the back of the room might host a talented cover
band playing the Doors and Foreigner, or a rising Bengali act like
Friends of Fusion.
Sunday
7 a.m.
10. DIM SUM?
At its political and economic apex, Kolkata drew immigrants not just
from elsewhere in India, but from around the world. Jewish, Armenian,
Parsi and Chinese communities blossomed here. And while most are in
steep decline, Sunday mornings provide a vivid (and tasty) opportunity
to interact with the remnants of the city's Chinese population. Wake
early and stop by Tiretta Bazar (the intersection of Chatawala Gali
and Sun Yat Sen Streets), the city's old Chinatown, which springs to
life at 6 a.m. with vendors - interspersed with vegetable sellers -
spread out curbside dispensing steamed buns, dumplings, soups and
other dim sum staples.
10 a.m.
11. STATELY MONUMENT
Exchange the din of the city for relative serenity on the manicured
grounds of the Victoria Memorial Hall (1 Queen's Way; 91-33-2223-1890;
victoriamemorial-cal.org); entry 150 rupees for non-Indian
citizens. Built over 15 years in the first part of the 20th century,
the domed white marble hall serves as a reminder of the grandiosity
behind the British colonial project. Stroll along the lawns and spot
egrets and parrots in flight (along with young couples canoodling on
benches in the shade) before entering the memorial. Inside, you'll
find colonial-era lithographs and oil paintings, and an extensive
local history display, running from the city's origins to the present.
IF YOU GO
On bustling Park Street, the Park Hotel (17 Park Street,
91-33-2249-9000; theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html) maintains a
fashionable contemporary feel (and remains a hotbed of night life)
after four decades. The hotel's communal areas host an impressive
display of contemporary Bengali art. Rooms start at 9,000 rupees
(about $167); discounts available online.
An oasis of calm close to the Rabindra Sarovar Metro Station in South
Kolkata, the Bodhi Tree (48/44 Swiss Park; 91-33-2424-6534;
bodhitreekolkata.com) offers six themed rooms around a communal space
that serves as garden, art gallery and cafe. Rooms start at 2,200
rupees.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/11/25/travel/36-hours-in-kolkata-india.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0
November 22, 2012
36 Hours in Kolkata, India
By DAN PACKEL
CONTEMPORARY narratives of resurgent India frequently sidestep the
city of Kolkata, also known as Calcutta, the capital of the state of
West Bengal and the seat of power during the British Raj. The city's
political clout has long since shifted to New Delhi, and its economic
might more recently to Mumbai. Yet its reputation as an intellectual
and cultural hub still lingers - five Nobel Prize winners are
associated with the city, including the economist Amartya Sen and the
poet-novelist-painter-songwriter Rabindranath Tagore. But like the
rest of India, this clamorous yet charming city is changing: in 2011,
the democratically elected Communist government of West Bengal was
voted out of power after 34 years. For many Bengalis, this political
transition reflects a desire to catch up with the rest of
India. Visitors exploring Kolkata today are in a position to glimpse
an emerging urban modernity but still have the opportunity to explore
the city's rich past, which, for now, remains unavoidable at every
step.
Friday
3 p.m.
1. THE SEAT OF POWER
Known during the colonial era as Dalhousie Square, B.B.D. Bagh sits at
the political heart of Kolkata. Sidestep the food vendors selling
omelets and dosas to the area's office workers from their sidewalk
perches, and admire the colonial buildings where British commerce and
administrative functions were once carried out. The most prominent of
these is the Writers Building, on the north side of the square, a
columnated red brick edifice constructed in 1776 that serves as the
seat of the state government, and is now in the hands of the Trinamool
Congress party.
5:30 p.m.
2. GALLERY STOP
In the early part of the 20th century, the style of art known as the
Bengal School achieved national prominence from its base in Kolkata,
exemplified by the works of the painter Abanindranath Tagore,
Rabindranath Tagore's nephew. These muted watercolors, a response to
the purported materialism of Western art, emphasized spiritual and
natural themes. Though the influence of the school has long since
dissipated, Kolkata remains an important locus for Indian art. CIMA,
or Center of International Modern Art (Sunny Towers, 43 Ashutosh
Chowdhury Avenue; 91-33-2485-8717; cimaartindia.com), a sleek, modern
space in South Kolkata, is one of the best places to view it. Recent
exhibitions have shown the art of Shreyasi Chatterjee and Paresh
Maity, among others.
7:30 p.m.
3. A FULL PLATE
Traditionally, the best way to experience Bengali food, marked by an
enthusiasm for river fish and the sharp kick of mustard oil, was
inside a Bengali home. If you can swing an invitation to dinner, take
advantage of it. But with many women refusing to spend so much time in
the kitchen, there are an increasing number of restaurants serving
Bengali fare. Of these, it's tough to beat Kewpie's (2 Elgin Lane;
91-33-2486-1600), on the eclectically decorated ground floor of a
residential bungalow. Come hungry, order the mangshor thali (620
rupees, or $11.50 at 54 rupees to the dollar) and receive your choice
of fish, a vegetable and a meat curry, along with rice, dal, dessert
and more.
10 p.m.
4. LOUNGE THEN DANCE
Late nights aren't the same in Kolkata after the recent imposition of
a midnight curfew, but dedicated partyers now get an earlier
start. Settle into a corner seat at Plush (Astor Hotel, 15 Shakespeare
Sarani; 91-33-2282-9957; astorkolkata.com), with a cover charge of
1,000 rupees for two, applicable to drinks and food. You can enjoy a
cocktail while the soundtrack shifts from house music to Western club
hits and the dance floor begins to fill.
Saturday
8 a.m.
5. WALKING HISTORY
Economically, Kolkata thrived during the colonial period, with many
Bengalis amassing great wealth through trade and service in the
colonial administration. A walk through the narrow streets of the
city's Sovabazar neighborhood provides a glimpse at the ancestral
estates, which range in style from Islamic to Baroque and beyond, that
emerged during this period. There are also print shops, jewelry
workshops and other enterprises. Rely on an informative guided tour
from Calcutta Walks (91-98301-84030; calcuttawalks.com), which charges
1,500 rupees a person, to make the most of your venture.
Afterward, taste another side of Bengali food at Bhojohori Manna,
attached to the renovated Star Theater (79/3/4 Bidhan Sarani;
91-33-2533-8519; bhojohorimanna.com). If it's available, try the super
jumbo ilish barishali (225 rupees), a thick steak of this local fish
served in mustard sauce.
2 p.m.
6. KAFFEEKLATSCH
Book stalls stuffed with used textbooks and paperbacks line College
Street in front of the University of Calcutta, as you make your way to
the historic Indian Coffee House (15 Bankim Chaterjee Street; 91-33
2237-5649). Here, in an airy second-floor hall, generations of Bengali
students and intellectuals have engaged in adda, or spirited
discussion, over cups of coffee (15 rupees). Even though the
Communists are out of power, leftist thought remains strong here; on a
recent visit, among the slogans in English and Bengali on a whiteboard
on the wall, someone had written: `Capital is not in
crisis. Capitalism is the crisis.'
5 p.m.
7. SHOPPING TIME
While shopping-mall culture has emerged in the city's newer
neighborhoods in the south and the east, the sprawling New Market
(Lindsay Street) still surges with crowds. The name refers to the
covered S. S. Hogg Market, but informally it also refers to the
shopping arcades surrounding the complex. Shop for pashmina shawls and
curios, admire richly detailed saris and other fabrics, or simply
marvel at the range of items on offer here, from flowers to
feather-dusters to foodstuffs. If you need a snack, head to Nizam's
(23-24 Hogg Street; 91-98-3619-4669). It is said to be the progenitor
of the kathi roll - a paratha (flatbread) that's cooked in an egg,
then rolled up around mutton or chicken spiced with fresh lime juice,
red onion, finely chopped green chili, and salt - that is now found in
cities across India (35 rupees).
8 p.m.
8. TOUCHPAD DINING
Take a breather from Bengali food at Bistro by the Park (2A, Middleton
Row; 91-33-2229-6494), which opened in 2011 with a menu created by the
British expat chef Shaun Kenworthy. The menu at this 50-seat
restaurant arrives on iPads and features salads, pastas, pizzas,
Southeast-Asian-influenced dishes and, in a concession to Bengali
tastes, fish (here, bhetki) in mustard sauce. Dinner for two,
including two glasses of Italian or Australian wine, is about 1,800
rupees.
10:30 p.m.
9. ROCK 'N' ROLL
Park Street was once lined with clubs where one could hear jazz and
other Western sounds, but since 1997, the city's rock music scene has
been dominated by one spot: Someplace Else, inside the Park Hotel (17
Park Street; 91-33-2249-9000;
theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html). With brass lamps, iron
railings and brick walls, the room nicely approximates a dingy pub
(save for its location inside a boutique hotel). On a given night, the
small, deep stage in the back of the room might host a talented cover
band playing the Doors and Foreigner, or a rising Bengali act like
Friends of Fusion.
Sunday
7 a.m.
10. DIM SUM?
At its political and economic apex, Kolkata drew immigrants not just
from elsewhere in India, but from around the world. Jewish, Armenian,
Parsi and Chinese communities blossomed here. And while most are in
steep decline, Sunday mornings provide a vivid (and tasty) opportunity
to interact with the remnants of the city's Chinese population. Wake
early and stop by Tiretta Bazar (the intersection of Chatawala Gali
and Sun Yat Sen Streets), the city's old Chinatown, which springs to
life at 6 a.m. with vendors - interspersed with vegetable sellers -
spread out curbside dispensing steamed buns, dumplings, soups and
other dim sum staples.
10 a.m.
11. STATELY MONUMENT
Exchange the din of the city for relative serenity on the manicured
grounds of the Victoria Memorial Hall (1 Queen's Way; 91-33-2223-1890;
victoriamemorial-cal.org); entry 150 rupees for non-Indian
citizens. Built over 15 years in the first part of the 20th century,
the domed white marble hall serves as a reminder of the grandiosity
behind the British colonial project. Stroll along the lawns and spot
egrets and parrots in flight (along with young couples canoodling on
benches in the shade) before entering the memorial. Inside, you'll
find colonial-era lithographs and oil paintings, and an extensive
local history display, running from the city's origins to the present.
IF YOU GO
On bustling Park Street, the Park Hotel (17 Park Street,
91-33-2249-9000; theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html) maintains a
fashionable contemporary feel (and remains a hotbed of night life)
after four decades. The hotel's communal areas host an impressive
display of contemporary Bengali art. Rooms start at 9,000 rupees
(about $167); discounts available online.
An oasis of calm close to the Rabindra Sarovar Metro Station in South
Kolkata, the Bodhi Tree (48/44 Swiss Park; 91-33-2424-6534;
bodhitreekolkata.com) offers six themed rooms around a communal space
that serves as garden, art gallery and cafe. Rooms start at 2,200
rupees.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/11/25/travel/36-hours-in-kolkata-india.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0