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Yessayan: Towards Cilicia

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  • Yessayan: Towards Cilicia

    YESSAYAN: TOWARDS CILICIA
    by Jennifer Manoukian

    http://www.armenianweekly.com/2012/10/05/yessayan-towards-cilicia/
    October 5, 2012

    The following is an excerpt from Amid the Ruins (1911), writer Zabel
    Yessayan's account of the aftermath of the 1909 massacres in Cilicia.

    It is translated to English by Jennifer Manoukian.

    Towards Cilicia

    The steamboat brought us to Cilicia's port and that last night on the
    Mediterranean filled me with looming terror and dread. As we gradually
    approached the threshold of the catastrophe, reality seemed to escape
    my comprehension, and I could not truly believe that the next morning
    we would reach Mersine, Adana, Cilicia-the places that we had been
    reading about for weeks, the places that had lodged themselves in our
    brains. There, we would find a bloody, open wound, and the thought
    of touching it sent a painful shudder through me.

    Zabel Yessayan A warm, serene environment surrounded us. Under a
    star-studded sky, the dark blue waves of the Mediterranean gently
    rocked the steamboat.

    There was a conflict between the luminous, immutable beauty of nature
    and the torturous thoughts racing endlessly through our minds. This
    conflict became so exhausting that it almost caused physical pain.

    The idea of sinking deep into the heart of the catastrophe produced
    a gloomy impatience in all of us, and although we walked on the
    deck in silence until late at night without talking about our
    feelings, I was convinced that everyone's mind was seized by the same
    burning curiosity. There were both Turks and Armenians on board. The
    Patriarchate's second delegation and the members of the second military
    bureau were travelling on the same ship. On board were also wounded
    merchants and relatives of victims, who were rushing to the ruins to
    see the extent of the catastrophe with their own eyes.

    We stayed on deck until well past midnight. Every so often,
    heart-breaking sighs could be heard from the third class cabins below.

    On deck, the black hood of an Armenian clergyman could sometimes be
    seen in the pale rays of light radiating from the ship's lanterns. The
    soldiers walked as a group, and as they came closer, I could hear
    pieces of their conversation:

    -The closer we come to Mersine, the more my heart burns with an
    inexplicable pain.

    Below deck, I heard a passenger sigh deeply, as if to second that
    thought.

    Alone in my cabin, I was besieged by the reality that I would see
    the next day. Until that moment, it was as if my inner being was
    bathed in an unfamiliar light, which rather than giving my thoughts
    a distinct shape, muddled them and shrouded them in a haze. In that
    feverish state of mind, an image stubbornly returned to me in pieces.

    Two months earlier, men and women from the Red Cross had left from
    Galata. They were the very first to leave. The sky wept steadily
    onto the city below; Stamboul was covered in a humid, grey fog and
    everything exuded infinite sadness. Behind us, hoarse, passionate,
    and melancholic songs rose from the cafes along the pier like intense,
    lamenting cries of pain.

    We were all as pale as corpses, but tried in vain to smile at
    the passengers. The boat started to sail away. A mother's face
    was gradually growing fainter as the boat sailed further into the
    distance. Next to us, her teenage daughter struggled to smile in an
    attempt to hide all the suffering in her young soul. The combination
    of the mother's face disappearing into the grey mist, the mournful
    melodies flowing out of the cafes on the pier, the patter of the
    rain-at once cruel and calming-falling on the city exalted my soul
    with a feeling that made me lightheaded and caused my knees to go weak.

    On our way back, we were all sad and absorbed in thought. In a red
    nightmare, I saw the city in flames, displaced people in a faraway
    place, enraged girls in mourning and gallows-gallows everywhere!

    What was then only a vague nightmare would become my world in a matter
    of a few hours.

    The steamboat stopped. I immediately came up on deck. I thought I
    would be the first person there, but everyone had already gathered.

    There was a sickly pallor to everyone's faces and their sleep-deprived
    eyes were careful not to meet those of their fellow passengers. The
    soldiers formed a group of their own and watched Mersine intently with
    eyes full of sadness. One of the clergymen from the Patriarchate's
    delegation turned toward Cilicia, the pale face under his black,
    velvet hood contorted by his grief.

    At the same time, small boats rushed towards us and the soldiers
    hurried to get off. They passed us trying to avoid our gaze and
    sorrowfully bid us a quick farewell. Their footsteps were irregular,
    almost bewildered, and we could hear the sound of their swords
    dragging on the ground. At that moment, it was difficult to decide
    who was unhappier: us or them.

    Mersine lay before us. Its flat, bluish land extended into the
    distance towards a chain of mountains enveloped in a haze, and the
    colorful palette of daybreak lazily billowed across that stretch of
    rural simplicity. Once again, the nightmare of the catastrophe became
    a distant thought and I had the urge to smile at the sunny sky. But
    the delegation was ready and waiting, and our boats were about to
    arrive. Anxious, somber faces examined us, and everything grew dark
    in me.

    The clergymen were solemn and serious, as if they were preparing for
    a funeral. We all grew paler. My heart was gripped by limitless grief
    and I felt as though my veins were freezing.

    Those who came to meet us had seen everything. Some had fled fires
    and swords. Swelling flames danced in their eyes and the bitterness
    of their memories gave their words an unsettling quickness. In those
    few minutes, they told us many things. Despite our limitless despair,
    to them our words seemed to be filled with meaningless optimism. They
    shook their heads and said:

    -How can you be so sure when you've only just stepped off the boat?

    When we first set foot in Mersine, my impression of it was very clear.

    It was as though we were crossing the threshold into the realm of
    death. People received us with unspoken sadness. They shook our hands
    and passed in front of us. Who knows what was so foreign about us
    that made them not want to talk to us? Taking refuge in their sorrow,
    they stood together in a group and watched us, their eyes brimming
    with tears.

    Our hotel was filled with all kinds of displaced people. Here we also
    found the Catholicos and were immediately introduced to him. All day,
    it was as if I was seeing everything through a nightmare: There were
    women dressed in black-the family members of the first victims-and
    cries and laments of the wounded, the orphans, and the widows whose
    grief was reignited upon seeing us.

    The following day we would go to Adana and be amid the ruins. I thought
    senselessly about it, and spent another sleepless night with my heart
    racing, tending to my sorrow.

    The night was cool. Moisture rose from the sprawling sea and soared
    over the sleeping city. The roar of the waves soothed me, as caravans
    of slow-moving camels passed endlessly through the street, their
    undulating movements marked by the sound of ringing bells.

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