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A Turk, A Kurd, And An Armenian Walk Into A Church

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  • A Turk, A Kurd, And An Armenian Walk Into A Church

    A TURK, A KURD, AND AN ARMENIAN WALK INTO A CHURCH

    http://www.armenianweekly.com/2012/10/18/a-turk-a-kurd-and-an-armenian-walk-into-a-church/

    Posted by Khatchig Mouradian on October 18, 2012

    We park the car near Lake Van and start our long hike towards the
    side of a hill where the ruins of a medieval Armenian monastery await
    us. It is a long hike over uneven surfaces thoroughly sprinkled with
    dry manure. We had met the culprits earlier, near the lake-a large
    herd of sheep that covered the landscape stretching between two
    hills. A few shepherds greeted us and offered some tea.

    1 300x200 A Turk, a Kurd, and an Armenian Walk into a Church

    We had met the culprits earlier, near the lake-a large herd of sheep
    that covered the landscape stretching between two hills. (Photo by
    Khatchig Mouradian)

    After nearly an hour, the church is in clear view. "I have never
    walked this long to get to a mosque!" one of my companions, a Kurdish
    activist from Diyarbakir, jokes.

    I smile, but I also want to use the opportunity to make a point to
    everyone in our small group. "You know, I do not hike for hours to
    get to churches in the U.S. Or anywhere else for that matter," I say
    half-jokingly. "This is about genocide, dispossession, and a search
    for meaning..."

    He knows.

    I am being preachy, my American friend's eyes are telling me. I notice
    the box of Turkish delights she'd purchased earlier protruding from
    her handbag. "Your bag is so delightful," I say, attempting to be
    funny. We soldier on.

    11 300x200 A Turk, a Kurd, and an Armenian Walk into a Church

    "This is about genocide, dispossession, and a search for meaning..."

    (Photo by Khatchig Mouradian)

    The monastery, historically known as Garmravak, but called Gorundu
    Kilisesi by locals after the nearby village, is perched majestically
    on the side of a hill. Two large holes on its dome face each other,
    indicating that the church was cannonballed before being left to the
    mercy of the forces of nature. Still, beautiful khatchkars (Armenian
    cross-stones) and engravings adorn the outside walls of the scarred,
    ravaged church.

    We walk in. My Turkish companion, a soft-spoken urban designer from
    Istanbul, points to a large hole dug in the middle of the church:
    Treasure hunters have been here! After six trips to historic Armenian
    villages and towns over the past two years alone, this is an all too
    familiar sight for me.

    A few minutes later, I am alone in the church. I slide my hand on
    its walls ceremoniously, like I have done with every single church
    ruin I have visited in historic Armenia. I know it gives me strength.

    I would like to believe that the church also wants a reassuring hand
    telling it, "Hang in there! I know in my heart that we will be whole
    again one day."

    1111 A Turk, a Kurd, and an Armenian Walk into a Church

    Two large holes on its dome face each other, indicating that the
    church was cannonballed before being left to the mercy of the forces
    of nature. (Photo by Khatchig Mouradian)

     

    111 A Turk, a Kurd, and an Armenian Walk into a Church

    Beautiful khatchkars (Armenian cross-stones) and engravings adorn
    the outside walls of the scarred, ravaged church. (Photo by Khatchig
    Mouradian)

     

    22 A Turk, a Kurd, and an Armenian Walk into a Church

    "Hang in there! I know in my heart that we will be whole again one
    day." (Photo by Khatchig Mouradian)

    Armenian Weekly Editor Khatchig Mouradian just returned from a trip
    to Dikranagerd/Diyarbakir, Sassoun, and Van. This is the first in a
    series of articles written about that trip. 

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