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Yerevan's 'Pak Shuka': An Iconic Market's Uncertain Future

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  • Yerevan's 'Pak Shuka': An Iconic Market's Uncertain Future

    YEREVAN'S 'PAK SHUKA': AN ICONIC MARKET'S UNCERTAIN FUTURE
    by Arman Sanentz

    http://www.armenianweekly.com/2012/09/10/yerevans-pak-shuka-an-iconic-markets-uncertain-future/
    September 10, 2012

    YEREVAN (A.W.)-What was once known as "one of Armenia's best
    architectural structures" is now subject to demolition. For the
    past six decades, tourists and locals alike flocked to the Pak Shuka
    (literal translation "closed market," meaning covered indoor market),
    where vendors sold their goods under the massive building's prominent
    arches.

    araz artinian Yerevans 'Pak Shuka': An Iconic Markets Uncertain Future

    What was once known as "one of Armenia's best architectural structures"
    is now subject to demolition. (Photo by Araz Artinian)

    The historic Pak Shuka Market was a central bazaar constructed in
    1952 by engineer Hamazasp Arakelyan and designed by famed architect
    Grigor Aghababyan (whose 100th anniversary was celebrated in 2011).

    It was listed on the State List of Immovable Historical and Cultural
    Monuments of Yerevan as an officially recognized architectural
    monument. During the Soviet era, when the avenue was named Lenin
    Prospekt, it was Yerevan's only market with a fixed roof.

    Just months ago, on Jan. 1, the sudden closure of the market-a tourist
    mainstay in the center of Yerevan, on one of its main arteries Mesrop
    Mashtots Avenue and the intersection of Amiryan St., across from the
    Blue Mosque-left shoppers, proud vendors, and some officials confused
    and angry. This, despite assurances from the management that following
    a renovation, the market would revert to its original splendor and
    vendors would be able to flaunt their goods as before. Around 70
    salespeople working for the vendors were left without a job.

    About a year earlier, in January 2011, under the administration of
    former Yerevan Mayor Karen Karapetyan (who was the former head of
    ArmRosGazprom), a ban on street trade was adopted, based on a 2005 law
    on trade and services that banned open-air sales of all produce and
    goods except ice cream, flowers, and soft drinks. The goals of the ban
    were to clean up the streets of the capital and ensure that traders
    conducted business under sanitary conditions. With the departure,
    however, of many lively characters, the city has reportedly undergone
    quite a transformation. The ban affected some 3,000 traders (unofficial
    estimates put the number at 10,000), among whom were backyard farmers
    and others who would regularly come from outlying areas of Yerevan
    to set up shop on the sidewalks-as they couldn't afford to pay the
    rent of 1,300-1,500 drams (about $3.25-$4) daily for the stalls in
    most of the city's existing markets. The Municipality Department of
    Trade and Services began offering the traders space at any of the 30
    covered markets in the city, some of them with a first-6-months free
    option. The city also started building a number of mini-markets. By
    then, the opening of a variety of convenient supermarkets in every
    neighborhood of Yerevan in recent years had already taken a toll on
    the markets, as well as street trade.

    ImageProxy 1 300x175 Yerevans 'Pak Shuka': An Iconic Markets Uncertain
    Future

    Demolished (Photo: ArmeniaNow.com)

    On Jan. 7, Tiv 1 Shuka CSJC, the company in charge of the renovation,
    began demolishing the inside of the landmark, which held ornate
    stone carvings considered by some as architectural jewels and massive
    intricate iron gates considered as the "gateway to the capital."

    For the average Yerevantsi, to shop there was an expensive
    proposition, compared to the regular markets. In its heyday, once
    inside, tourists entered another universe, where they experienced
    true Armenian culture and hospitality, and were greeted by a myriad
    of proud and friendly vendors offering them samples-from the latest
    fresh harvest of organic fruits and vegetables, intricate displays
    of dried fruits and nuts, spices and herbs, an assortment of meats,
    seafood, and poultry, fresh lavash bread, sheets of dried fruit syrup
    (ttu lavash, or sour lavash) or roll-ups, and the ever-present fruit
    sujukh (shelled walnuts threaded on a string, dipped in grape molasses,
    then hung to dry until a thick and tender coat covers it in the form of
    a sausage). Pak Shuka offered an amazing range of goods and souvenirs,
    something to satisfy every appetite, all displayed on attractive
    stalls and decorated booths. Experiencing the atmosphere, color, and
    aroma was described as visiting a veritable "colorful museum of food."

    The current owner of the building, Samvel Aleksanyan (b. 1968 in
    Yerevan), a businessman (he owns the Yerevan City supermarket chain)
    and parliamentarian representing the Republican Party of Armenia,
    has tried to reassure Yerevantsis that he only plans to renovate
    the building and construct an underground parking area. Yet, despite
    his persistent denials, rumors abound that he plans to relocate his
    largest four-story supermarket to the site of the Pak Shuka building.

    Aleksanyan's company, Fleetfood, Armenia's largest food import
    conglomerate, enjoys a de facto monopoly on the highly lucrative
    imports of wheat, sugar, alcohol, and cooking oil to Armenia. He's
    one of the country's wealthiest entrepreneurs, widely known as "Lfik
    Samo" (a nickname where "Lfik" comes from the Russian word for bra,
    as Samvel's father owned a bra shop in Soviet times).

    Aleksanyan acquired Pak Shuka in September 2011 from fellow oligarch
    and MP Gagik Tsarukyan (b. 1956 in Arinj), also known by his nickname
    "Dodi Gago." Tsarukyan still owns G.U.M., the other major indoor market
    in the capital. A former sportsman (arm wrestling), he is the founder
    and head of the Prosperous Armenia Party (PAP) and, since December
    2008, the head of Armenia's National Olympic Committee (NOC). Readers
    of the Armenian Weekly might recognize his name from an earlier article
    as the wealthy businessman who promised $700,000 to the scorer of an
    Olympic gold medal, in addition to a series of monetary rewards by the
    government to Armenia. Tsarukyan, along with Aleksanyan (also known as
    the "Informal 'Feudal Lord' of Malatia"), is considered to be one of
    the most influential of Armenia's government-connected oligarchs. He
    owns Multi Group, a holding company that oversees his interests.

    According to Aleksanyan, a few months after buying the landmark
    building in September 2001, a draft plan for a supermarket was filed
    at the Armenian Ministry of Culture with the Monuments Preservation
    Agency. He insists that once the proper modernization is complete,
    standardized booths are in place, and an underground parking facility
    is built under the market floor, there will be a number of new shops
    opened inside where the storage areas used to be, which will operate
    alongside the food vendors, resulting in the creation of up to 300
    new jobs. Around 25 vendor villagers, some of whom come from different
    parts of the country, were temporarily relocated to the Masif market,
    says Aleksanyan, with a plan to bring them back to Pak Shuka when
    it reopened. He further claims that the market had fallen on hard
    times, with facilities inside the market needing quick attention,
    including toilet facilities and problems with the running water. These
    claims are supported by Yerevan Municipality spokespersons who say
    the architectural elements of the renovated building will remain
    intact-another one of Aleksanyan's guarantees to the public. Odds,
    however, are that the new version will not be quite the same as the
    original. In fact, some of the vendors may not be able to return
    given the probable rent hikes and the larger new retail stalls.

    On Jan. 19, Hasmig Poghosyan, the minister of culture, announced
    at a press conference that since no plans had yet been submitted,
    all the renovations to the interior of the building (except the
    work underground for the parking area) had been halted following an
    order from authorities at the Yerevan Municipality. Yet, by early
    February, photos showing the dismantling of parts of the roof began
    to inundate social media sites. On March 7, the Ministry of Culture
    defined the building as a third-level wrecking structure, and the
    Ministry of Urban Development released a report on the condition
    of the building. It subsequently suspended the ongoing dismantling,
    and required that an architectural plan be put in place to repair the
    reinforced concrete structures and replace them one at a time. The
    construct company was fined 200,000 drams (around $510 USD) for their
    earlier attempts at demolishing the building. On learing that the
    latest renovations were being carried out without the proper license,
    Mayor Taron Margaryan sent a team to investigate. Construction was
    halted and the site placed under close scrutiny. A team of experts from
    the Ministry of Culture and the Yerevan Municipality formed a joint
    commission to review the damage and propose concrete recommendations
    on how to proceed.

    Then on Sun., May 27, early in the morning and in the darkness of
    night, heavy machinery brought down some of the building's arches.

    The experts from the joint commission visited the site and verified
    that six arched roof sections of the building had been demolished,
    and late in the evening suspended further construction work at the
    site. Those working on the underground foundation of the building had
    apparently noticed that some of the ferro-concrete arches in the back
    of the building needed attention, and while they tried to take down
    the damaged ones, other arches connected to them collapsed as well.

    The next day, on May 28, the joint commission came out with a
    protocol allowing construction only in the underground part of
    the building. Word got around that no official permit had yet been
    acquired for the demolition work in other parts of the building,
    prompting Margaryan to, late in the evening of May 28, publically
    admit the collapse had occurred as the workers were trying to buttress
    the arches, but that the steps taken were to avoid further accidental
    structural collapse. Also on the same day, a group of activists of the
    "Let's Save Pak Shuka" protested the dismantling and demanded their
    inclusion in the decision-making meeting on the market's future. One
    group, headed by former MP Stepan Safaryan of the Heritage Party,
    collected signatures demanding an end to the dismantling, and turned
    the petitions over to the police department.

    He said he wanted everyone to realize that, in addition to the lack
    of the proper documents, there were no architectural plans, nor
    renditions of the proposed renovation, had been submitted. Activists
    from different backgrounds continue to take every conceivable measure
    to forestall the destruction of Yerevan's important architectural
    landmark.

    On May 31, Gayane Durgaryan, the head of the public relations
    office of the Ministry of Culture, in an attempt to counter the many
    rumors, issued the following statement: "The construction company
    did not submit the project of additional stories to the Ministry of
    Culture." Durgaryan also confirmed that the exterior of the market
    would be preserved, as new solutions were being applied to other areas,
    including modifying the building entrance for handicapped access. She
    said the head of the Yerevan Territorial Department of the Agency
    for Preservation of Historical and Cultural Monuments, Karo Ayvazyan,
    was going to visit the storage location of the doors to the building;
    the engravings on the market doors are similar to the bas-reliefs on
    the altar of the Makaravank Monastery of the 10th-13th centuries.

    On June 12, the special joint commission released some of its
    findings. They outlined several violations, including the fact that
    some of the renovation work done had overstepped the bounds set in
    the approved architectural plan, and that the earlier collapse of the
    arched sections of the building was a direct result of the unauthorized
    work performed by the construction company. The joint commission
    requested the immediate reinforcement of the underground parking
    foundations, and asked the developer to file a new architectural
    plan and blueprints for the ongoing renovation, delineating the fact
    that all exterior and interior design elements of Pak Shuka were to
    be preserved.

    In a video interview with CivilNetTV correspondents on May 28, posted
    on YouTube on May 31, Aleksanyan is heard saying, "About the Covered
    Market...I'm saying it for the last time...it started falling apart by
    itself because it's a building from 1952. A committee has been formed
    to find out what caused it to crumble." When confronted about the
    presence of construction vehicles in the building the night before,
    he responded, "Those weren't construction machines. They were just
    there to hold up the wall so it couldn't crumble on people. We have
    secured it so nothing will happen." The interview goes on:

     

    Q. But why would it start crumbling?

    A. Ask the committee after they give their final conclusion.

    Q. So you wouldn't destroy it?

    A. No.

    Q. Was it predictable?

    A. The building was in very bad shape. The seismologists had stated
    that it should be taken down anyway, but I don't know why they didn't
    demolish it then.

    Q. So would you like to keep those arches?

    A. Why wouldn't I? Why not?

    Q. A lot of people are saying that it's going to become a
    supermarket. Will you speak about the general project? What have you
    planned to do?

    A. People say a lot of things... You can go stand under those [market]
    walls and hear whatever you want to hear.

    Q. What is it going to be, in the end?

    A. A market.

    Q. What kind of a market?

    A. A food market, as it was before.

    Q. What will it look like?

    A. The market will look the same.

    Q. Will it have many stories? They say there will be 4 floors.

    A. Says who? Who says that?

    Q. The media...

    A. Who is saying that?

    Q. OK, why don't you tell us about the plans concerning the
    building. Tell us what you've planned so we don't have to listen to
    the rumors.

    A. There will be a market. A one-story market.

    Q. Will the columns be restored?

    A. Yes.

    Q. Mr. Aleksanyan, how will you cover the expenses later? After all,
    you are a serious businessman, you must have considered the risks.

    How will a one-story market cover the expenses, especially when it
    was there before and people said it was a very bad business, it did
    not profit.

    A. The market has not been renovated in over 20-30 years.

    Q. Will there be windows?

    A. Windows? Of course there will be windows.

    Q. But you were aware from the beginning that the building is an
    old one?

    A. I did not know that the building was in such bad shape.

    Q. Is it possible that you will restore the columns?

    A. I already told you, yes.

    Q. So, you'll try to achieve the same look as before.

    A. Yes.

    Q. Will it be like "Yerevan City" supermarkets? Why isn't there an
    architect working with you? It is a violation of the law since there
    are only engineers working there. I talked to them yesterday.

    A. We had permits for the parking, we are doing work there. As for
    the rest, the upper part, when the papers are ready, we'll proceed.

    Q. Mr. Aleksanyan, will there be a sign saying "Yerevan City" on any
    part of the market?

    A. No, there won't be. It will be Yerevan Market.

    Q. But G.U.M. Market is Yerevan Market. [G.U.M. Market is another
    famous market in Yerevan, the official name of which is "Yerevan
    Market."]

    A. Well what can I say?

    Q. Gagik Beglaryan [the minister of transportation and communications,
    also a former mayor of Yerevan] will argue with you...

    Will you be the main provider of the market goods?

    A. Who was the provider before? Was it me? Whoever did it before will
    keep doing it.

    Q. How many people were there standing and selling things? How many
    years ago were you there last ?

    A. I went to the market often.

    Q. Oh did you?

    Yet, in a May 31 article by Grisha Balasanyan on Hetq.am, Aleksanyan
    seemed to have changed his story: Although he once again claims that
    the Pak Shuka building will remain a one-story market, in response
    to an often-asked question-whether there will be a Yerevan City
    supermarket in the renovated building, possibly the largest one in
    the chain of markets he owns-he answers, "If the people demand it,
    a part of the building will house a Yerevan City market."

    The controversy over Pak Shuka is the latest in a string of historical
    structures slated for demolition or sale for newer developments
    across Yerevan, resulting in a wave of initiatives, including an
    Open Letter to Armenian Prime Minister Tigran Sargsyan and Yerevan
    Mayor Taron Margaryan by concerned citizens, activists, NGO's, and
    officials to save the market. They ask that any further modifications
    to the interior of the building be reviewed by the Urban Development
    Council and discussed in public awareness campaigns, with the goal
    of preventing the further loss of landmarks that represent the city's
    cultural and historic heritage.

    If their efforts are not successful, then Yerevan as designed by
    the great architect Alexander Tamanyan is at risk. The city's unique
    architectural landmarks must be preserved and passed on to the next
    generation for safekeeping. If MP Aleksanyan shares that outlook,
    then there is no reason he can't step up to the challenge, given
    his considerable wealth, in modernizing while restoring both the
    interior and exterior of Pak Shuka to its former splendor. Estimates
    are that the renovation may take three to five years to complete. The
    demolition of this unique structure would be a major disservice to
    the citizens of Yerevan, and denies future tourists a must-visit.

    While communities around the world harken back to the days of fresh,
    organic, and local produce, and indoor and outdoor markets are valued
    and supported, the closure of Pak Shuka sits in stark contrast.

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